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Old 02-28-2006, 12:04 PM   #1
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Default Use of Crates for Separation Anxiety

I got Sadie 10 mos. ago and she is 3-1/2 years old.

In the ten mos. I have had her, I have heard her bark about twenty times. I did not think she was a barker, until I decided to tape record her while I am gone.

Keep in mind she is hardly ever alone, as my parents live across the street, and adore her. We usually try to schedule things around her, so she is not alone. She is such a doll.

My recorder runs for one hour, and I was horrified when I got home and replayed the tape. She pants and barks constantly, and she sounds like she is in deep pain.

I have recorded her actions for the last three times I was gone, which has not been more than an hour.

It is awful. This morning I called my vet and his ass't. said they do not like to sedate animals. She recommended putting her in a crate, up t0 eight hours, with water only.

I have a crate that I put her in the first night I got her, and she was fine. That is her only experience in a crate.

I was keeping her in a medium-sized laundry room, but after listening to the tape the first time, I gave her full run of the house. Nothing changed.

What does everyone think? Is eight hour too long with just water, and no place to potty?

I trust my vet, but need to set my mind at ease. Sorry this is so long.

Many thanks.
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Old 02-28-2006, 12:15 PM   #2
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I don't agree with all of this but it is interesting reading. Because Yorkies are such social little ones I think having 2 helps alot. I also don't agree with your vet caging her for 10 hours but I do agree with your vet to not using drugs...I know, I know it is confusing and hard to understand. My gang of 10 is never lonely and sleep for most of the day. I wish I could help more.


Separation Anxiety

http://www.hsus.org/pets/pet_care/ou...n_anxiety.html

©2002 Whim Whams Illustration Studio
Everyone needs a little time alone now and then—unless of course you are a dog who suffers from separation anxiety. Dogs with separation anxiety exhibit behavior problems when they're left alone. Typically, they'll have a dramatic anxiety response within a short time (20–45 minutes) after their owners leave them. The most common of these behaviors are:
Digging, chewing, and scratching at doors or windows in an attempt to escape and reunite with their owners.
Howling, barking, and crying in an attempt to get their owner to return.
Urination and defecation (even with housetrained dogs) as a result of distress.



Why Do Dogs Suffer from Separation Anxiety?

We don't fully understand why some dogs suffer from separation anxiety and, under similar circumstances, others don't. It's important to realize, however, that the destruction and house soiling that often occur with separation anxiety are not the dog's attempt to punish or seek revenge on his owner for leaving him alone. In reality, they are actually part of a panic response.

Separation anxiety sometimes occurs:

When a dog accustomed to constant human companionship is left alone for the first time.
Following a long interval, such as a vacation, during which the owner and dog are constantly together.
After a traumatic event (from the dog's point of view), such as a period of time spent at a shelter or boarding kennel.
After a change in the family's routine or structure (such as a child leaving for college, a change in work schedule, a move to a new home, or a new pet or person in the home).
How Do I Know If My Dog Has Separation Anxiety?
Because there are many reasons for the behaviors associated with separation anxiety, it's essential to correctly diagnose the reason for the behavior before proceeding with treatment. If most, or all, of the following statements are true about your dog, he may have a separation anxiety problem:

The behavior occurs exclusively or primarily when he's left alone.
He follows you from room to room whenever you're home.
He displays effusive, frantic greeting behaviors.
The behavior always occurs when he's left alone, whether for a short or long period of time.
He reacts with excitement, depression, or anxiety to your preparations to leave the house.
He dislikes spending time outdoors by himself.
What to Do If Your Dog Has Separation Anxiety
For a minor separation anxiety problem, the following techniques may be helpful by themselves. For more severe problems, these techniques should be used along with the desensitization process described in the next section.

Keep arrivals and departures low-key. For example, when you arrive home, ignore your dog for the first few minutes, then calmly pet him. This may be hard for you to do, but it's important!
Leave your dog with an article of clothing that smells like you—such as an old t-shirt that you've slept in recently.
Establish a "safety cue"—a word or action that you use every time you leave that tells your dog you'll be back. Dogs usually learn to associate certain cues with short absences by their owners. For example, when you take out the garbage, your dog knows you come right back and doesn't become anxious. Therefore, it's helpful to associate a safety cue with your short-duration absences.
Some examples of safety cues are a playing radio, a playing television, or a toy (one that doesn't have dangerous fillings and can't be torn into pieces). Use your safety cue during practice sessions with your dog. Be sure to avoid presenting your dog with the safety cue when you leave for a period of time longer than he can tolerate; if you do, the value of the safety cue will be lost. Leaving a radio on to provide company for your dog isn't particularly useful by itself, but a playing radio may work if you've used it consistently as a safety cue in your practice sessions. If your dog engages in destructive chewing as part of his separation distress, offering him a chewing item as a safety cue is a good idea. Very hard rubber toys that can be stuffed with treats and Nylabone®-like products are good choices.

Desensitization Techniques for More Severe Cases of Separation Anxiety

The primary treatment for more severe cases of separation anxiety is a systematic process of getting your dog used to being alone. You must teach your dog to remain calm during "practice" departures and short absences. We recommend the following procedure:

Begin by engaging in your normal departure activities (getting your keys, putting on your coat), then sit back down. Repeat this step until your dog shows no distress in response to your activities.
Next, engage in your normal departure activities and go to the door and open it, then sit back down.
Next, step outside the door, leaving the door open, then return.
Finally, step outside, close the door, then immediately return. Slowly get your dog accustomed to being alone with the door closed between you for several seconds.
Proceed very gradually from step to step, repeating each step until your dog shows no signs of distress. The number of repetitions will vary depending on the severity of the problem. If at any time in this process your actions produce an anxiety response in your dog, you've proceeded too fast. Return to an earlier step in the process and practice this step until the dog shows no distress response, then proceed to the next step.
Once your dog is tolerating your being on the other side of the door for several seconds, begin short-duration absences. This step involves giving the dog a verbal cue (for example, "I'll be back"), leaving, and then returning within a minute. Your return must be low-key: Either ignore your dog or greet him quietly and calmly. If he shows no signs of distress, repeat the exercise. If he appears anxious, wait until he relaxes to repeat the exercise. Gradually increase the length of time you're gone.
Practice as many absences as possible that last less than ten minutes. You can do many departures within one session if your dog relaxes sufficiently between departures. You should also scatter practice departures and short-duration absences throughout the day.
Once your dog can handle short absences (30 to 90 minutes), he'll usually be able to handle longer intervals alone and you won't have to repeat this process every time you are planning a longer absence. The hard part is at the beginning, but the job gets easier as you go along. Nevertheless, you must go slowly at first. How long it takes to condition your dog to being alone depends on the severity of his problem.
Teaching the Sit-Stay and Down-Stay
Another technique for reducing separation anxiety in your dog is practicing the common "sit-stay" or "down-stay" training exercises using positive reinforcement. Your goal is to be able to move briefly out of your dog's sight while he remains in the "stay" position, and thereby teach your dog that he can remain calmly and happily in one place while you go to another. To do this, you gradually increase the distance you move away from your dog. As you progress, you can do this during the course of your normal daily activities. For example, if you're watching television with your dog by your side and you get up for a snack, tell him to stay, and leave the room. When you come back, give him a treat or praise him quietly. Never punish your dog during these training sessions.

Interim Solutions

Because the treatments described above can take a while, and because a dog with separation anxiety can do serious damage to himself and/or your home in the interim, consider these suggestions to help you and your dog cope in the short term:

Consult your veterinarian about the possibility of drug therapy. A good anti-anxiety drug should not sedate your dog, but simply reduce his anxiety while you're gone. Such medication is a temporary measure and should be used in conjunction with behavior modification techniques.
Take your dog to a dog day care facility or boarding kennel.
Leave your dog with a friend, family member, or neighbor.
Take your dog to work with you, even for half a day, if possible.
What Won't Help a Separation Anxiety Problem
Punishing your dog. Punishment is not an effective way to treat separation anxiety. In fact, punishing your dog after you return home may actually increase his separation anxiety.
Getting another pet as a companion for your dog. This usually doesn't help an anxious dog because his anxiety is the result of his separation from you, his person, not merely the result of being alone.
Crating your dog. Your dog will still engage in anxiety responses in the crate. He may urinate, defecate, howl, or even injure himself in an attempt to escape from the crate.
Leaving the radio on (unless the radio is used as a "safety cue," as described above).
Training your dog. While formal training is always a good idea, it won't directly help a separation anxiety problem. Separation anxiety is not the result of disobedience or lack of training; it's a panic response.
©2002. Adapted from material originally developed by applied animal behaviorists at the Dumb Friends League, Denver, Colorado. All rights reserved.
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Old 02-28-2006, 12:23 PM   #3
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First to answer your question from your other thread...

Rescue Remedy is an herbal product that is made for humans, but is often recommended for dogs, too. It has a calming effect. Look for it in health food stores.

DAP = dog appeasing pheromone. The diffuser is like an air freshener that diffuses a scent that is calming to dogs. It is often recommended for separation anxiety. It's also often recommended for dogs with noise phobias - like to fireworks or thunder. Here is the UK, it is available from vets. In the US, it may be more widely available, I'm not sure. Do an online search for it. Oh, by the way, the scent is not at all offensive to humans (you can barely smell it all).

As for the crate, I most definitely would NOT just put her in there for long periods of time. It would keep her from being destructive, but I have serious doubts about whether it would actually calm her or not. Personally, I think just putting her in there and locking the door would make her anxiety worse.

If you go with the crate, I recommend that you take steps to make the crate a pleasant experience for her. Here are a couple of articles on that topic:
http://www.clickersolutions.com/articles/2001/crate.htm
http://www.clickersolutions.com/arti...ining_Info.htm

Here is a good article on separation anxiety:
http://www.clickersolutions.com/articles/2002/sa.htm

Good Luck!
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Old 02-28-2006, 01:08 PM   #4
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I'm sorry your furbaby is behaving this way. I've wanted to tape record Baby, but I'm afraid of what I will hear.
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Old 02-28-2006, 05:38 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by livingdustmops
I don't agree with all of this but it is interesting reading. Because Yorkies are such social little ones I think having 2 helps alot. I also don't agree with your vet caging her for 10 hours but I do agree with your vet to not using drugs...I know, I know it is confusing and hard to understand. My gang of 10 is never lonely and sleep for most of the day. I wish I could help more.






Why Do Dogs Suffer from Separation Anxiety?

We don't fully understand why some dogs suffer from separation anxiety and, under similar circumstances, others don't. It's important to realize, however, that the destruction and house soiling that often occur with separation anxiety are not the dog's attempt to punish or seek revenge on his owner for leaving him alone. In reality, they are actually part of a panic response.

Separation anxiety sometimes occurs:

When a dog accustomed to constant human companionship is left alone for the first time.
Following a long interval, such as a vacation, during which the owner and dog are constantly together.
After a traumatic event (from the dog's point of view), such as a period of time spent at a shelter or boarding kennel.
After a change in the family's routine or structure (such as a child leaving for college, a change in work schedule, a move to a new home, or a new pet or person in the home).
How Do I Know If My Dog Has Separation Anxiety?
Because there are many reasons for the behaviors associated with separation anxiety, it's essential to correctly diagnose the reason for the behavior before proceeding with treatment. If most, or all, of the following statements are true about your dog, he may have a separation anxiety problem:

The behavior occurs exclusively or primarily when he's left alone.
He follows you from room to room whenever you're home.
He displays effusive, frantic greeting behaviors.
The behavior always occurs when he's left alone, whether for a short or long period of time.
He reacts with excitement, depression, or anxiety to your preparations to leave the house.
He dislikes spending time outdoors by himself.
What to Do If Your Dog Has Separation Anxiety
For a minor separation anxiety problem, the following techniques may be helpful by themselves. For more severe problems, these techniques should be used along with the desensitization process described in the next section.

Keep arrivals and departures low-key. For example, when you arrive home, ignore your dog for the first few minutes, then calmly pet him. This may be hard for you to do, but it's important!
Leave your dog with an article of clothing that smells like you—such as an old t-shirt that you've slept in recently.
Establish a "safety cue"—a word or action that you use every time you leave that tells your dog you'll be back. Dogs usually learn to associate certain cues with short absences by their owners. For example, when you take out the garbage, your dog knows you come right back and doesn't become anxious. Therefore, it's helpful to associate a safety cue with your short-duration absences.
Some examples of safety cues are a playing radio, a playing television, or a toy (one that doesn't have dangerous fillings and can't be torn into pieces). Use your safety cue during practice sessions with your dog. Be sure to avoid presenting your dog with the safety cue when you leave for a period of time longer than he can tolerate; if you do, the value of the safety cue will be lost. Leaving a radio on to provide company for your dog isn't particularly useful by itself, but a playing radio may work if you've used it consistently as a safety cue in your practice sessions. If your dog engages in destructive chewing as part of his separation distress, offering him a chewing item as a safety cue is a good idea. Very hard rubber toys that can be stuffed with treats and Nylabone®-like products are good choices.

Desensitization Techniques for More Severe Cases of Separation Anxiety

The primary treatment for more severe cases of separation anxiety is a systematic process of getting your dog used to being alone. You must teach your dog to remain calm during "practice" departures and short absences. We recommend the following procedure:

Begin by engaging in your normal departure activities (getting your keys, putting on your coat), then sit back down. Repeat this step until your dog shows no distress in response to your activities.
Next, engage in your normal departure activities and go to the door and open it, then sit back down.
Next, step outside the door, leaving the door open, then return.
Finally, step outside, close the door, then immediately return. Slowly get your dog accustomed to being alone with the door closed between you for several seconds.
Proceed very gradually from step to step, repeating each step until your dog shows no signs of distress. The number of repetitions will vary depending on the severity of the problem. If at any time in this process your actions produce an anxiety response in your dog, you've proceeded too fast. Return to an earlier step in the process and practice this step until the dog shows no distress response, then proceed to the next step.
Once your dog is tolerating your being on the other side of the door for several seconds, begin short-duration absences. This step involves giving the dog a verbal cue (for example, "I'll be back"), leaving, and then returning within a minute. Your return must be low-key: Either ignore your dog or greet him quietly and calmly. If he shows no signs of distress, repeat the exercise. If he appears anxious, wait until he relaxes to repeat the exercise. Gradually increase the length of time you're gone.
Practice as many absences as possible that last less than ten minutes. You can do many departures within one session if your dog relaxes sufficiently between departures. You should also scatter practice departures and short-duration absences throughout the day.
Once your dog can handle short absences (30 to 90 minutes), he'll usually be able to handle longer intervals alone and you won't have to repeat this process every time you are planning a longer absence. The hard part is at the beginning, but the job gets easier as you go along. Nevertheless, you must go slowly at first. How long it takes to condition your dog to being alone depends on the severity of his problem.
Teaching the Sit-Stay and Down-Stay
Another technique for reducing separation anxiety in your dog is practicing the common "sit-stay" or "down-stay" training exercises using positive reinforcement. Your goal is to be able to move briefly out of your dog's sight while he remains in the "stay" position, and thereby teach your dog that he can remain calmly and happily in one place while you go to another. To do this, you gradually increase the distance you move away from your dog. As you progress, you can do this during the course of your normal daily activities. For example, if you're watching television with your dog by your side and you get up for a snack, tell him to stay, and leave the room. When you come back, give him a treat or praise him quietly. Never punish your dog during these training sessions.

Interim Solutions

Because the treatments described above can take a while, and because a dog with separation anxiety can do serious damage to himself and/or your home in the interim, consider these suggestions to help you and your dog cope in the short term:

Consult your veterinarian about the possibility of drug therapy. A good anti-anxiety drug should not sedate your dog, but simply reduce his anxiety while you're gone. Such medication is a temporary measure and should be used in conjunction with behavior modification techniques.
Take your dog to a dog day care facility or boarding kennel.
Leave your dog with a friend, family member, or neighbor.
Take your dog to work with you, even for half a day, if possible.
What Won't Help a Separation Anxiety Problem
Punishing your dog. Punishment is not an effective way to treat separation anxiety. In fact, punishing your dog after you return home may actually increase his separation anxiety.
Getting another pet as a companion for your dog. This usually doesn't help an anxious dog because his anxiety is the result of his separation from you, his person, not merely the result of being alone.
Crating your dog. Your dog will still engage in anxiety responses in the crate. He may urinate, defecate, howl, or even injure himself in an attempt to escape from the crate.
Leaving the radio on (unless the radio is used as a "safety cue," as described above).
Training your dog. While formal training is always a good idea, it won't directly help a separation anxiety problem. Separation anxiety is not the result of disobedience or lack of training; it's a panic response.
©2002. Adapted from material originally developed by applied animal behaviorists at the Dumb Friends League, Denver, Colorado. All rights reserved.
You have been a big help. Thanks so much for this info., and I have printed it out.

I am lucky in that she does not defecate in the house while I a gone, nor does she chew. I wish she liked toys, as that may help. I do have some Bully Sticks and she loves those
But, she won't touch them when I am gone, and that is probably good, as I read they need to be supervised when chewing on treats.

Many thanks!
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Old 02-28-2006, 05:42 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FirstYorkie
First to answer your question from your other thread...

Rescue Remedy is an herbal product that is made for humans, but is often recommended for dogs, too. It has a calming effect. Look for it in health food stores.

DAP = dog appeasing pheromone. The diffuser is like an air freshener that diffuses a scent that is calming to dogs. It is often recommended for separation anxiety. It's also often recommended for dogs with noise phobias - like to fireworks or thunder. Here is the UK, it is available from vets. In the US, it may be more widely available, I'm not sure. Do an online search for it. Oh, by the way, the scent is not at all offensive to humans (you can barely smell it all).

As for the crate, I most definitely would NOT just put her in there for long periods of time. It would keep her from being destructive, but I have serious doubts about whether it would actually calm her or not. Personally, I think just putting her in there and locking the door would make her anxiety worse.

If you go with the crate, I recommend that you take steps to make the crate a pleasant experience for her. Here are a couple of articles on that topic:
http://www.clickersolutions.com/articles/2001/crate.htm
http://www.clickersolutions.com/arti...ining_Info.htm

Here is a good article on separation anxiety:
http://www.clickersolutions.com/articles/2002/sa.htm

Good Luck!

This is great info. I printed it all out and will read it while having my dinner.

I talked to my vet about getting a second Yorkie, and he said that probably would not work. She misses me, not the other companion.

Thanks so much for this info.
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Old 02-28-2006, 05:44 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BabyFidgette
I'm sorry your furbaby is behaving this way. I've wanted to tape record Baby, but I'm afraid of what I will hear.
It has been quite an eye opener, as she just is not a barker.

Dad listened to the tape today, and was shocked. He could not believe this was Sadie.
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Old 03-01-2006, 06:44 AM   #8
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I am one of those that beleive that crating is a "good thing". It was recommended to me to crate Millie during the day when I was at work. This was recommended by a certified professional dog behavioralist. But she did recommend the crate with the walls, not the wire cage type crates.

It worked! Millies was perfectly fine in the crate for 9 hours. Never pottied and slept until we got home.

I think the crate does make them feel secure. When they have free range of the home, before they are ready for it, they look at this Gigantic "den" that is their home, and they feel that they have to protect it. This becomes overwhelming for a small dog. When you confine, them, you are limiting what they need to protect and you are also making them secure in that they are protected from anyone getting to them.

I think crating them, when you are not home also creates good behaviors. They learn how to act when you are not there.

Thats my 2 cents, based on my personal experience. I'm an advocate and do not see it as inhumane, but actually, just the opposite.
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Old 03-01-2006, 01:46 PM   #9
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I agree with the crate-training, also. Mr. Hobbs did not like his crate at first, but he has learned to get used to it. The reason I think he hated it at first was because he had BAD separation anxiety. But, dogs are den animals...like the previous post said, a huge house is just too large of a den. When you put them in a crate, that becomes their den, and they feel comfortable in it. It will definately take some getting used to, but in the long run, I believe that it is the best option. I have done extensive research on crate-training as Hobbs absolutely abhored his crate at first. However, after trying several other options, including x-pen, baby gate, leaving him out, etc., we went back to the crate-training. It is great because if we go to a friend's house, we can take Hobbs and his crate and put him in there while at the friend's house. Also, when we have company, he can go in his crate. There are just so many benefits of crate-training other than helping with separation anxiety, which has been almost completely cured since we have crate-trained Hobbs. Good luck! I know how sad you are feeling now that you know that your baby is so upset when you are gone. But give the crate a try...it will be hard at first because she will hate it, but he strong...it will be SOOO much better for the both of you in the long run.
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Old 03-01-2006, 02:16 PM   #10
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I also like crate-training. I don't think it's "cruel" or "un-kind" in anyway. In reality, it protects them and makes them feel secured.

Although, I wouldn't suggest to crate her for 10 hours. That's a little too long, especially when she's not used to it.

I'd crate her for a couple of hours to start. But, do it when you're out running errands. That way, you won't be tempted to take her out when you hear her barking.

Good luck!
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Old 03-01-2006, 03:04 PM   #11
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i gave up on crating. bunjee just doesn't like to be separated from me with bars or wires between us. he'll bark to no end and struggle so much to get out of his crate, he'd end up moving it half way across a room.

i ended up just confining him to the tiled areas of the condo and i'm never on the other side of the baby gate from him for any more than a few minutes. now i can leave for a few hours at a time and he's just fine. i've not had problems with him barking due to separation anxiety for a good month now.

i still have his crate in the bedroom and he'll sleep in the crate at night or when he's tired if he's not in bed with me. he'll also run in there for safety when i try to clip his nails and he doesn't want it, or when he knows i'm mad at him. i'll sometimes close the crate door so he wouldn't get out while i mopped or sweep the floor. and he's fine with that now too.
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Old 03-01-2006, 10:21 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ladylavender
I am one of those that beleive that crating is a "good thing". It was recommended to me to crate Millie during the day when I was at work. This was recommended by a certified professional dog behavioralist. But she did recommend the crate with the walls, not the wire cage type crates.

It worked! Millies was perfectly fine in the crate for 9 hours. Never pottied and slept until we got home.

I think the crate does make them feel secure. When they have free range of the home, before they are ready for it, they look at this Gigantic "den" that is their home, and they feel that they have to protect it. This becomes overwhelming for a small dog. When you confine, them, you are limiting what they need to protect and you are also making them secure in that they are protected from anyone getting to them.

I think crating them, when you are not home also creates good behaviors. They learn how to act when you are not there.

Thats my 2 cents, based on my personal experience. I'm an advocate and do not see it as inhumane, but actually, just the opposite.

Re: the crate with walls? Can they see out at all? It sounds like the top is open, as well as the front door area, and that is all.

I have a wire crate.

Today, I started dangling my keys, and not going anywhere. She really stresses when she hears me getting my keys.

My vet is all for crates, but it is hard to put her in one when she hates it.

I put some small kibbles in a Kong for her today, and she got everything out and that kept her busy for awhile while I was out, but she was not crated.

My laundry rooom, where I usually keep her, is confined and she does terrible in it. Maybe this is too big for this little gal.

I will test the crate tomorrow.

Many thanks.
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Old 03-01-2006, 10:24 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RLC12345678
I agree with the crate-training, also. Mr. Hobbs did not like his crate at first, but he has learned to get used to it. The reason I think he hated it at first was because he had BAD separation anxiety. But, dogs are den animals...like the previous post said, a huge house is just too large of a den. When you put them in a crate, that becomes their den, and they feel comfortable in it. It will definately take some getting used to, but in the long run, I believe that it is the best option. I have done extensive research on crate-training as Hobbs absolutely abhored his crate at first. However, after trying several other options, including x-pen, baby gate, leaving him out, etc., we went back to the crate-training. It is great because if we go to a friend's house, we can take Hobbs and his crate and put him in there while at the friend's house. Also, when we have company, he can go in his crate. There are just so many benefits of crate-training other than helping with separation anxiety, which has been almost completely cured since we have crate-trained Hobbs. Good luck! I know how sad you are feeling now that you know that your baby is so upset when you are gone. But give the crate a try...it will be hard at first because she will hate it, but he strong...it will be SOOO much better for the both of you in the long run.

Very helpful info., and thanks for taking the time to reply.

She is an adult, so I don't believe she spent much time in a crate as a puppy.

I will try my best with the crate.
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Old 03-01-2006, 10:29 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hunniebunnie
i gave up on crating. bunjee just doesn't like to be separated from me with bars or wires between us. he'll bark to no end and struggle so much to get out of his crate, he'd end up moving it half way across a room.

i ended up just confining him to the tiled areas of the condo and i'm never on the other side of the baby gate from him for any more than a few minutes. now i can leave for a few hours at a time and he's just fine. i've not had problems with him barking due to separation anxiety for a good month now.

i still have his crate in the bedroom and he'll sleep in the crate at night or when he's tired if he's not in bed with me. he'll also run in there for safety when i try to clip his nails and he doesn't want it, or when he knows i'm mad at him. i'll sometimes close the crate door so he wouldn't get out while i mopped or sweep the floor. and he's fine with that now too.

This is an interesting story. I guess these little dickens are all different , just like us.

That is cute how he goes in his crate when you want to clip his nails. I give you credit, as this is something I can't
do to Sadie.

Many thanks!
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Old 03-01-2006, 10:35 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by Kate
I got Sadie 10 mos. ago and she is 3-1/2 years old.

In the ten mos. I have had her, I have heard her bark about twenty times. I did not think she was a barker, until I decided to tape record her while I am gone.

Keep in mind she is hardly ever alone, as my parents live across the street, and adore her. We usually try to schedule things around her, so she is not alone. She is such a doll.

My recorder runs for one hour, and I was horrified when I got home and replayed the tape. She pants and barks constantly, and she sounds like she is in deep pain.

I have recorded her actions for the last three times I was gone, which has not been more than an hour.

It is awful. This morning I called my vet and his ass't. said they do not like to sedate animals. She recommended putting her in a crate, up t0 eight hours, with water only.

I have a crate that I put her in the first night I got her, and she was fine. That is her only experience in a crate.

I was keeping her in a medium-sized laundry room, but after listening to the tape the first time, I gave her full run of the house. Nothing changed.

What does everyone think? Is eight hour too long with just water, and no place to potty?

I trust my vet, but need to set my mind at ease. Sorry this is so long.

Many thanks.

Everyone:

I hope this one goes through, but I want to tell you that I appreciate all of the emails, and help.

I have replied to each and every one of you, but for some reason my posts don't show up.

I hope this one goes through. I wonder if there is a problem with this forum.

Thank you!
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