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Old 10-31-2011, 07:33 PM   #1
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Default HELP! Treat aggression and general aggression in adult male yorkie

Hey YT family!

My yorkie (who turns 6 tomorrow!) has been showing A LOT of treat aggression. He snarls, snaps and--if he can get you-- bites HARD if he has a treat (or something he shouldn't have like yummy scraps out of the trash or dirty laundry). I know this isn't a healthy behavior and we used to just eliminate ALL treats in the house, but with a new lab puppy we are trying to keep chew treats (rawhides, pigs ears , bully sticks, etc) out to keep the puppy from getting destructive.

Is there any way to help stop food/treat aggression? Today, even after I removed the treat Oliver was still snarling at me and baring his teeth.


It makes me sad, but also mad at myself because I feel like I did something wrong to make him this way.
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Old 10-31-2011, 10:03 PM   #2
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I don't know what the "proper" way of training against this is...I just know what I've always done. Just like I handled my pups feet, ears, mouth frequently from day one, so she was used to it when needed for future grooming activities, I've also made it a habit to move her food bowl slightly and/or pet her while she's eating, take her chew toy or bullystick after she's been chewing on it for a while, only to pet her & tell her good girl and the give it back, so that she didn't become snippy.
Getting my last yorkie when my kids were quite young, I was very conscious about doing such things so she was used to it. I didn't want her snapping at my kids if they walked by her while she was eating or if they petted her while she was chewing on a favorite chew. It worked great with her, so I do the same thing with my Current pup, ZoE. But even after working with her on this, there was a time a month or so ago where she growled at me when I took her bullystick away at bedtime. I made it a point to give it to her and take it away multiple times throughout the day for the week following that incident. Now, she's not aggressive/protective with them anymore. I think that training is an ongoing process and requires periodic reinforcement. I don't know that there's a quick fix that is permanent.
I'd be interested to hear how others have dealt with this issue.
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Old 11-01-2011, 07:47 AM   #3
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I have a chew snarler and underwear muncher :eek He will get REALLY agressive if he's gotten into the laundry and you don't approach him the right way.

So what my coach told me for treats, is make sure that chews are always broke into multiple pieces, never just have one chew, that way you can lay 3-4 pieces of the chew, and pick one up, then trade so that the dog gets used to getting either the same thing or somethign better for giving up the chew. This works for chews

For underwear we unfortunately cannot get the same reaction, so I have to be more stern with him. He's too fixated on the laundry, so we startle him with a "no" or growl to get his teeth away from the laundry, and we play a game of chase to get him out of the bathroom. If I feel teeth (ie he bites me) he gets a time out, and a loud "NO!" Time out consists of 30 seconds in a crate with absolutely nothing in it. no food, no blankets no water. more than 30 seconds is useless cause they wont remember why they are given this treatment.

I know that there is a need for positive training, and I am a very positive trainer in my agility training, but unless the aggression stems from fear, a stern time out will not hurt them, and Harley has mostly stopped his snarling. I can now clap and say his leave it command and he'll at least walk away from it.

That being said I'd also teach "leave it" There are lots of ways to do it, and many good books, if you want more info on leave it let me know and i'll post how I do it.
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Old 11-01-2011, 08:07 AM   #4
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We practice 'trade' with Lucy. She is famous for getting some crap off the floor that she shouldn't have, then running, then getting a little snarly if you try to get it from her.

We've learned to just offer her a small treat - she will immediately stop running, drop what she has in her mouth; and come into the kitchen. The forbidden treat is immediately forgotten.

With two dogs, we simply do not leave chews, etc out on the floor - because both dogs will try to 'guard' their good chews. Those are given only in their crate. I know you have a new puppy - could this have triggered a little jealousy and/or guarding behavior in her?

On a side note, I notice my Lucy has a new game. She will not eat her food (she eats in her crate ~ door open; and Ringo eats in the kitchen) until Ringo is finished eating. Then she will RUN to her crate and start eating before he can get to it.

It's like a nasty little game she plays!
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Old 11-01-2011, 06:15 PM   #5
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Default ENOUGH, no more Snarl, Snap, Nip, or Bite

When you raise a dog and they bite as adult, usually it is your fault. Bet you didn't expect to see that in print. No of course you don't want your dog to bite and you never set out to teach him to be a bratty nipper. We love our Yorkies so much, we let them get away with a lot. We would not allow a 150 pound Rottie to snarl, snap or nip at us. A three pound Yorkie souldn't be allowed to either. I can give you advice and lessons that will break the guarding, nip cycle. You may not agree with some of the things I want you to do. You may skip some of the steps. That is ok, but my method may not work if you skip steps.
Retraining your dog takes work and repetition. And it is for your Yorkies own good. Biting is never allowed. The law says so, and it can cost your precious Yorkie his life. Yorkies who think they are the boss and biting is ok, are a 100% more likely to be attacked by a bigger dog, be kicked by a frightened person, hit by a car (because they ignore their person calling them), given up, and sadly, even put down.
TIt is time for Tough Love, from now on
NOTHING IN LIFE IS FREE.
Right now there is a problem because, your dog has been allowed to growl, guard things, and nip. You have to remind him he is not allowed to behave this way. You wouldn't allow your spouse, child or employer to scream and slap you. Your Yorkie should not be allowed to treat you that way either. If you are fearful of being bitten, some of these lessons will be scary for you. If you put bare hands near teeth, you may get a nip. Most of the time, I can help you avoid a real hard bloody bite, but you may get a nip. ( If your dog is showing true aggression biting and drawing blood, you need in home help with a live trainer, not this short little lesson.) Still want to do this ? OK lets go. First if he sleeps with you, Sorry but he needs to sleep in his own bed or crate for the next 7 days.
#1. Get your tools ready. You will need : A. Small spray bottle filled with water and set on stream not mist. B. Several rolled up balls of old socks or tennis balls, if you can toss them gently even when upset. C. A swimming tube floaty or a light weight wooden yardstick D. A Noise maker. Choose what feels right for you. You may clap, say No in a firm voice, use a small bike horn, a soda bottle or can with a few dried beans or pennies in it. E. A hand protector if needed, can be an oven mit, or a towel wrapped around your hand. E. a harness and cloth leash
#2. DAY ONE: Remind your dog of all he already knows. Clip a leash to his harness and let him drag it around. A leash gives you a connection to your dog. Even if you are not touching it. Have him sit before you give him his food. Have him sit or lay down before you take him out. Have him sit and high five or shake hands before you pet or play with him. Take him for a walk and have him heel (if he does not heel that is ok for now just use a short leash and speed walk him.) Don't let him stop and sniff when he wants to. He may sniff and potty when you decide and give him the cue SNIFF AROUND) Pat your leg and cue LETS GO or HEEL and resume your walk. From Day One, Nothing in life is Free. Your Yorkies has to do his chores to get rewards.
If you think this might help, tomorrow I will go to Lesson 3. Just let me know. the Just Right Yorkies and Teresa
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Old 11-01-2011, 08:31 PM   #6
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Hi everyone.

I'm so glad to hear that THIS IS FIXABLE. And, yes, I know it is my fault that he is like this in the first place... haha

I like the idea of a trade, and I like the idea of multiple chews and practicing with him a trade for another chew. This may help slightly.

I also liked the idea of keeping him on a leash for awhile. This may be tricky with the new lab puppy (who is already almost 50 pounds and pouncing chasing my yorkie) but if I put the lab outside during training sessions with Oliver (yorkie) the leash idea could work!

Teresa, I am interested in hearing more.

Thanks for all the input, everyone! I truly appreciate it! Anything to get Oliver to stop being aggressive! (Or any tips to help these two dogs get along!!! haha)
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Old 11-01-2011, 10:15 PM   #7
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Separate separate separate

as in use a puppy pen a large breed puppy vs an aggressive small breed adult is a long term issue

Absolutely do NOT tolerate any aggression if there is aggression take "it" away.

Separate, use doggy time out, keep all treats toys locked up have plenty for both if you can if it isn't working separate with play yard let them be next to each other but unable to touch each other this is the key when they have to be close but can't be aggressive they get over it and without injury.

Growling at each-other is as unacceptable as biting any aggression is unacceptable.
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Old 11-01-2011, 10:19 PM   #8
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I have no idea what methodology or whom Teresa is quoting but I read small spray bottle...

DO NOT SPRAY BOTTLE AN AGGRESSIVE DOG!

They will only be wet, ticked off more, and then next summer bite the neighbor kids playing with squirt guns...

if all fails no more treats keep the separate and in the worse cases use a soft muzzle.
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Old 11-02-2011, 08:15 AM   #9
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First let me say I am not quoting anyone. This is my method. Just a reminder, as I said before, if your dog is showing true aggression, biting and drawing blood, you need in home help with a live trainer. Not this short little lesson.
DAY 2 ENOUGH, no more, snarl, snap, bite.
Yorkies rarely just start nipping and acting bossy suddenly. Any odd behavior that seems out of character could mean your dog is in pain, even sick. A vet should rule out any health problems. If your Yorkie is healthy and has gradually gotten out of hand, it will take time, repetition, love and determination to put things right.
What I am telling you is not based on some study of wolf behavior, dominance, the alpha dog theory or you acting like the mother dog. It is based on over 30 years training small dogs and loving, Yorkies. Think back when your dog was a puppy, didn't he count on you for everything ? Protection, food, toys, walks, potty time, playing, and grooming ? That is what a good leader provides. Someone in the family has to be the leader. A young child or a Yorkie can not decide when to buy groceries, make a vet appointment, wear a seat belt, what food is the best for them, or always understand the rules. Young children I mean toddlers and Yorkies are a lot alike. They may want to play in the street, never take a bath, or get their teeth brushed, they may cry and protest when you say enough treats, or you need a nap now. As the leader it is your responsibility make good rules, to keep your family safe. Every lesson builds on the lesson they have learned before. If you don't make the rules your Yorkie will.

Lesson # 3 Today continue with nothing in life is free. Take a walk with your dog. Stay in charge on the walk. For these lessons use a regular harness and leash. Flexi-leashes will not work. Along with the potty bags take your spray water bottle. If your dog barks at other dogs give the cue word ENOUGH and change directions. If he keeps barking, cue with ENOUGH and spray one quick blast of water to break his barking trance. As soon as he is quiet praise with a very happy Good Quiet. Remember to keep your walk brisk it is for exercise, not exploring and potty. When you decide give the cue word SNIFF AROUND and let him sniff and potty.When you are ready, pat your left leg and cue with LET'S GO ( or Heel if your dog is trained to heel) and resume your walk. If your dog wants to keep sniffing sorry, he must follow you. Just start walking after you give the cue word. That is enough work on the walk to day.
It is ok to change where and how you feed your dog. This lesson will remind your Yorkie where and who all the food comes from. If your dog is crate trained you can start feeding him in his crate. I allow my dogs to own, what is in their crate. A. Give your cue, we say CRATE (use what you say crate, bed, so on) then put the food in the crate and close the door. Usually 20 min.s is enough time for them to eat. Free Feeding is no longer acceptable. Resource guarding is not good. If you do not want to feed your dogs in their crate use option B. B. You should always eat before your dog gets his meal. Even if it is only a nibble of carrot. Let him see you eat first. Cue him with Sit. When he sits put bowl on the floor with like 10 kibble in it. If he gobbles them up, drop 10 more, and repeat until his normal portion is eaten. Then pick up the bowl. If he is guarding the bowl skip using 'his' bowl and use paper plates or several bowls with a few kibble in each. When he finishes one, cue with SIT and set another bowl down a few feet away. This trade it in method, works most of the time. When he is eating from the new bowl, if he is not showing aggression, pick up the empty one, and reuse it.
Get a spreadable goody like fat free cream cheese, doggie canned spray cheese, honey, peanut- butter etc. ( If you have other dogs they should not be apart of lesson time, we want to discourage competition) Sit on a chair, foot stool or floor. Call your dog to you. Pretend to lick the treat off the back of your hand. now cue your dog with the word EASY and offer the treat covered back of your fist to your dog. Praise with Good Easy. Good boy. Repeat this lesson at least three times daily for the next 7 days. And then once a week for life. EASY is a beautiful cue. It means be gentle no teeth. You Yorkie should always take treats from your hand very gently.
The closed fist will be important later. A lot of things may seem silly now, but will all work together later. Retraining is so worth it, just keep at it. Be consistent.
Hope this helps. Teresa
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Old 11-02-2011, 08:27 AM   #10
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I just want to add this, the lesson is not personalized for your dog. An in home trainer could modify or change things as needed. I am giving general advice. If you have a real Aggression issue get a professional to help you. Teresa
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Old 11-02-2011, 06:32 PM   #11
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Hi all,

Thanks for the input. I appreciate all the tips!

Oliver is a good listener and is great on walks-no pulling or side sniffing. He doesn't bark at passing dogs, etc.

He is snappy when the pup corners him and paws at him or pounces on him (a five month old black lab at almost 45 pounds) or when he is guarding a chew. I have been able to point, say no, grab him by the scruff and continue to say No in a firm voice. I take the rawhide away and put my hand in front of his snarl until he stops and licks me.

I am also trying to teach the lab "gentle" and "leave it" so he stops cornering my Yorkie.

I appreciate tips and advice on my current strategies. :-)
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Old 11-02-2011, 06:46 PM   #12
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good thread
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Old 11-02-2011, 06:47 PM   #13
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NEVER FEED RAW HIDE-YOU CAN KILL YOUR DOGS!

Definitely be working on the pup's behavior also IMO.
Try bully sticks.
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Old 11-02-2011, 07:11 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by concretegurl View Post
NEVER FEED RAW HIDE-YOU CAN KILL YOUR DOGS!

Definitely be working on the pup's behavior also IMO.
Try bully sticks.
I misspoke. It was a pig's ear. Yes, I've been part of Yt for many years and have heard all about rawhides. Thank you.

Oliver LOVES bully sticks and is definately territorial over those haha
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Old 11-02-2011, 07:16 PM   #15
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This may be a long road of retraining Oliver and training the puppy.

Thank you, all, for your input and helpful responses. :-)
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