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Old 03-28-2006, 01:25 PM   #1
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Dog Alpha Dog Exercises

This is a little long but some of you might find it helpful if you have an aggressive puppy:

Alpha exercises
Leadership exercises can confirm humans as the heads of the family pack. Once you establish this relationship, your dog will seek you out. He will want to be with you and will treat you with respect and affection. After he learns to submit to handling, all other tasks such as grooming, nail clipping, cleaning ears, and medicating will be easier to accomplish. But first he must learn that you have the power to handle him, and that handling will not lead to any harm. He must come to trust you entirely.
These exercises will help establish leadership but should not be used with an older pup who has learned to use his teeth to get his way. Exercises one and two are recommended only for small puppies up to three months of age. Exercises three and four are suitable for pups up to six months of age as long as there's no problem with aggression. Be gentle but firm with all exercises, as you would with a baby human.
1. Sit on the floor, then pick your pup up off the floor with both hands supporting him just behind his front legs, facing you. Hold him away from you at arms length. Look directly into his eyes. Growl at him if he struggles, using a low guttural sound. Hold him till he relaxes. Vary the time you hold him in this position from 15 to 45 seconds. Vary the location.
2. Sit on the floor and cradle your pup, placing one hand under his head and the other supporting his back so that he is upside down on his back, and up in the air. Hold a larger puppy across your lap. Hold the pup for 15 to 45 seconds, using the same growl as in exercise 1 if he struggles. Hold him until he relaxes.
3. If your puppy is large, substitute this exercise for the first two. Straddle your pup, with one of your legs on each side of him. You should be facing the same direction as your dog. Lock your fingers together under his chest, just behind the front legs. Lift his front legs off the ground for 15 to 45 seconds. If he struggles, growl at him till he is quiet.
4. Place your dog on the floor with all four legs pointing away from you. Hold him firmly by the neck with one hand, and press down on his midsection with the other hand. Talk to him softly after he is quiet. It might take two or three minutes to get him to relax. If he exposes his belly to be rubbed, you are on the right track. Do not allow him to struggle, get up, or nip. Always praise him lavishly in a quiet tone when he relaxes. Now is also a good time to handle all four paws and look briefly into his mouth so he can get used to tolerating your handling him gently. Be sure to do this exercise four or five times a day at first. Taper off as the pup gets more used to you and accepts your leadership.
The stare
Eye contact is also one of the ways order is kept in a wolf pack. Only an alpha animal may use the stare to remind everyone who is in charge. When you initiate eye contact, you express your alpha position. Encourage your pup to maintain eye contact for several seconds, making it a pleasant experience. Do not force him to do so. Use the term "watch me" and always praise him the instant you have eye contact. However, you do not want to try to do this with a dog who thinks he is already in charge of things. The dog must know you are the leader first. Otherwise you will begin a stare-down contest. An alpha dog will not be willing to be first to avert his eyes. If you are the first to avert or even blink your eyes, it will help confirm the dog's alpha status.
________________________________________
Alpha discipline: Pack leader activities
There are many pack leader activities you can use as part of a daily training routine. Probably the single most important command your dog can learn is "sit." You can incorporate "sit" into everyday situations as a reminder that you are in charge of things. Tell your dog to "sit" before you feed him, before you play, before he goes out the door. This shows the dog that he must respond to you before indulging in his own pleasures. If he is obedience trained, put him in a down-stay while you prepare his dinner.
Your dog will accept you as pack leader as long as you are consistent and fair in your demands. You must never permit him to growl or snap. If he does, a severe scruff shake is necessary, followed by no attention from you for 10 to 15 minutes. The scruff is the loose skin around the dog's neck. If your pet growls or snaps and you are not afraid to handle him, grab him firmly by the scruff with both hands, stare him in the eyes, and shake him. Then put him in his crate for 15-20 minutes and ignore him.
If your dog growls or snaps and you are afraid to discipline him, seek professional help. Don't ignore the incident; a dog allowed to threaten his family can easily become a biter.
Never overlook any challenge to your authority. Most dogs will test their owners, usually in adolescence. When the issue is settled immediately, it usually ends the matter.
There are several books that will help owners establish leadership to assure a long, healthy relationship with a pet. There are also several training clubs and businesses in the area for those who prefer an instructor's assistance and for those who need help with problem dogs.
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Old 03-28-2006, 09:45 PM   #2
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Please read this article. You are using an outdated training theory and it has caused many problems with dogs.

HISTORY & MISCONCEPTIONS OF DOMINANCE THEORY
[ABOUT THE ALPHA ROLL]


Note: The information in the following article came from an interview with Dr. Ian Dunbar, who spent nine years studying the social behavior of dogs during the study mentioned below. In an earlier version of this article, Dr. L. David Mech was credited with the 30-year study. This was a mistake. The researcher who conducted the study was Dr. Frank Beach. An effort has been made to correct this error. However, if you know of a place where the original article was published, please notify the editor and request a correction.
The original alpha/dominance model was born out of short-term studies of wolf packs done in the 1940s. These were the first studies of their kind. These studies were a good start, but later research has essentially disproved most of the findings. There were three major flaws in these studies:
These were short-term studies, so the researchers concentrated on the most obvious, overt parts of wolf life, such as hunting. The studies are therefore unrepresentative -- drawing conclusions about "wolf behavior" based on about 1% of wolf life.
The studies observed what are now known to be ritualistic displays and misinterpreted them. Unfortunately, this is where the bulk of the "dominance model" comes from, and though the information has been soundly disproved, it still thrives in the dog training mythos.

For example, alpha rolls. The early researchers saw this behavior and concluded that the higher-ranking wolf was forcibly rolling the subordinate to exert his dominance. Well, not exactly. This is actually an "appeasement ritual" instigated by the SUBORDINATE wolf. The subordinate offers his muzzle, and when the higher-ranking wolf "pins" it, the lower-ranking wolf voluntarily rolls and presents his belly. There is NO force. It is all entirely voluntary.

A wolf would flip another wolf against his will ONLY if he were planning to kill it. Can you imagine what a forced alpha roll does to the psyche of our dogs?
.
Finally, after the studies, the researchers made cavalier extrapolations from wolf-dog, dog-dog, and dog-human based on their "findings." Unfortunately, this nonsense still abounds.
So what's the truth? The truth is dogs aren't wolves. Honestly, when you take into account the number of generations past, saying "I want to learn how to interact with my dog so I'll learn from the wolves" makes about as much sense as saying, "I want to improve my parenting -- let's see how the chimps do it!"

Dr. Frank Beach performed a 30-year study on dogs at Yale and UC Berkeley. Nineteen years of the study was devoted to social behavior of a dog pack. (Not a wolf pack. A DOG pack.) Some of his findings:

Male dogs have a rigid hierarchy.
Female dogs have a hierarchy, but it's more variable.
When you mix the sexes, the rules get mixed up. Males try to follow their constitution, but the females have "amendments."
Young puppies have what's called "puppy license." Basically, that license to do most anything. Bitches are more tolerant of puppy license than males are.
The puppy license is revoked at approximately four months of age. At that time, the older middle-ranked dogs literally give the puppy hell -- psychologically torturing it until it offers all of the appropriate appeasement behaviors and takes its place at the bottom of the social hierarchy. The top-ranked dogs ignore the whole thing.
There is NO physical domination. Everything is accomplished through psychological harassment. It's all ritualistic.
A small minority of "alpha" dogs assumed their position by bullying and force. Those that did were quickly deposed. No one likes a dictator.
The vast majority of alpha dogs rule benevolently. They are confident in their position. They do not stoop to squabbling to prove their point. To do so would lower their status because...
Middle-ranked animals squabble. They are insecure in their positions and want to advance over other middle-ranked animals.
Low-ranked animals do not squabble. They know they would lose. They know their position, and they accept it.
"Alpha" does not mean physically dominant. It means "in control of resources." Many, many alpha dogs are too small or too physically frail to physically dominate. But they have earned the right to control the valued resources. An individual dog determines which resources he considers important. Thus an alpha dog may give up a prime sleeping place because he simply couldn't care less.
So what does this mean for the dog-human relationship?

Using physical force of any kind reduces your "rank." Only middle-ranked animals insecure in their place squabble.
To be "alpha," control the resources. I don't mean hokey stuff like not allowing dogs on beds or preceding them through doorways. I mean making resources contingent on behavior. Does the dog want to be fed. Great -- ask him to sit first. Does the dog want to go outside? Sit first. Dog want to greet people? Sit first. Want to play a game? Sit first. Or whatever. If you are proactive enough to control the things your dogs want, *you* are alpha by definition.
Train your dog. This is the dog-human equivalent of the "revoking of puppy license" phase in dog development. Children, women, elderly people, handicapped people -- all are capable of training a dog. Very few people are capable of physical domination.
Reward deferential behavior, rather than pushy behavior. I have two dogs. If one pushes in front of the other, the other gets the attention, the food, whatever the first dog wanted. The first dog to sit gets treated. Pulling on lead goes nowhere. Doors don't open until dogs are seated and I say they may go out. Reward pushy, and you get pushy.
Your job is to be a leader, not a boss, not a dictator. Leadership is a huge responsibility. Your job is to provide for all of your dog's needs... food, water, vet care, social needs, security, etc. If you fail to provide what your dog needs, your dog will try to satisfy those needs on his own.

In a recent article in the Association of Pet Dog Trainers (APDT) newsletter, Dr. Ray Coppinger -- a biology professor at Hampshire College, co-founder of the Livestock Guarding Dog Project, author of several books including Dogs : A Startling New Understanding of Canine Origin, Behavior, and Evolution; and an extremely well-respected member of the dog training community -- says in regards to the dominance model (and alpha rolling)...

"I cannot think of many learning situations where I want my learning dogs responding with fear and lack of motion. I never want my animals to be thinking social hierarchy. Once they do, they will be spending their time trying to figure out how to move up in the hierarchy."

That pretty much sums it up, don't you think?

Melissa Alexander
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copyright 2001 Melissa C. Alexander
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Old 03-28-2006, 11:35 PM   #3
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ReggiesMom, while I do believe in teaching pups to calm themselves, I believe in doing it using positive methods. I would never growl at my dog as they consider that to be playing on our part and it usually heightens the excitement. I will never again grab my dog by the scruff of the neck - a move like that tends to increase defensiveness and fear and, in the end, cause more aggression in the dog. Not what you are trying to accomplish at all!

From VeterinaryPartner.com:

Oh, stop that alpha rollover! That is making her more and more defensive! Even the people who originally wrote that book and recommended that maneuver changed their position on it some years later, but unfortunately people keep teaching it, and doing it. It is extremely harmful to the relationship between dog and owner in many cases.
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Old 03-29-2006, 07:26 AM   #4
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After reading all of the information I was provided (THANK YOU!) I would like this post to be removed. Is that possible? Thank you to everyone for letting me know about the information in my post and how wrong it is. I apologize to anyone if I have caused any problems by posting this.
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Old 03-29-2006, 08:00 AM   #5
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I don't think the whole post should be removed as there is some valuable information in Cindy's post.
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Old 03-29-2006, 10:00 AM   #6
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Gosh, I wouldn't remove it either. The more we can educate each other and learn the better life will be for our little ones and ourselves. And let me say this, thank goodness you did post this information or else you never would have seen this article. You might have gone done a path that could have harmed your relationship with your little one. Don't think that everyone starts out with all the answers but the key is reading, studying and listening to many different people and books. I personally think positive training (i.e. clicker solution) is the only way to go with Yorkies today. It takes longer and more dedication on your part but it is a wonderful bonding experience with your Yorkie.
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Old 03-29-2006, 10:26 AM   #7
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I have a confession. Even though I posted that article... I'm not very good at growling so I gave up on that. I didn't have the heart to grab him by the scruff of his neck so I was posting advice that I wasn't following (thank goodness).

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Old 03-29-2006, 10:31 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ReggiesMom
I have a confession. Even though I posted that article... I'm not very good at growling so I gave up on that. I didn't have the heart to grab him by the scruff of his neck so I was posting advice that I wasn't following (thank goodness).

Ruth
Ruth, you are a GOOD mom! lolol!! I know you were only trying to help others, and I completely respect that. And see? This was a very valuable post because others are going to learn the very same things YOU just did!!

You did good girl! Hold your head up high!
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Old 03-29-2006, 10:56 AM   #9
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ReggiesMom, although they haven't spoken up yet, there are a large number of members here who still believe in the "alpha" theory. Cindy and I feel strongly that it is outdated and potentially dangerous and we've given you our reasons why. You can decide for yourself and for Reggie what you think is best.

Hey! There's always something to disagree over! Cindy and I are very like-minded, but even I have to disagree with her comment that clicker training "takes longer and more dedication on your part but it is a wonderful bonding experience with your Yorkie". In MY experience, clicker training is faster and easier than traditional methods. I'm a VERY lazy person. I'd like to say that although it takes more dedication, I do it, but I'd be lying! I do what works! Period. ("Full Stop", as they say here!)

Thanks for being open-minded!!!
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Old 03-29-2006, 12:40 PM   #10
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[QUOTE=FirstYorkie]Hey! There's always something to disagree over! Cindy and I are very like-minded, but even I have to disagree with her comment that clicker training "takes longer and more dedication on your part but it is a wonderful bonding experience with your Yorkie". In MY experience, clicker training is faster and easier than traditional methods. I'm a VERY lazy person. I'd like to say that although it takes more dedication, I do it, but I'd be lying! I do what works! Period. ("Full Stop", as they say here!)

QUOTE]

Carol HaHa - you are so wrong - they can be beaten into submission faster than clicker.......that was just a joke but obviously I work with little ones that have been beaten. Thanks Carol for putting that in (I bow to the Queen)as you are right...a few minutes everyday and it is amazing what can happen
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Old 03-29-2006, 11:04 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by livingdustmops
(I bow to the Queen)as you are right...
Well, I'm glad that you finally realized that *I* am Queen, but really, I must bow to YOUR superior knowledge. I INSIST! You are the one with the most Yorkie experience.

Okay, here's my take on the efficacy of the different training methods. You are probably right that you can beat a dog into submission quickly when you want him to NOT do something. It damages your relationship and inhibits learning later, but it can work quickly at the moment.

BUT, it is extremely difficult to teach a dog what you DO want him to do by using physical punishment. It is MUCH faster to mark what he is doing right and follow that with praise and a treat. And, you end up with a dog who WANTS to learn and WANTS to please you using that method.
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Old 03-30-2006, 06:20 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FirstYorkie
Well, I'm glad that you finally realized that *I* am Queen, but really, I must bow to YOUR superior knowledge. I INSIST! You are the one with the most Yorkie experience.

Okay, here's my take on the efficacy of the different training methods. You are probably right that you can beat a dog into submission quickly when you want him to NOT do something. It damages your relationship and inhibits learning later, but it can work quickly at the moment.

BUT, it is extremely difficult to teach a dog what you DO want him to do by using physical punishment. It is MUCH faster to mark what he is doing right and follow that with praise and a treat. And, you end up with a dog who WANTS to learn and WANTS to please you using that method.

Long Live The Queen!
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Old 03-30-2006, 10:47 AM   #13
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Let me just say that I am not a trainer BUT... We have a very large German Shepherd. When he was a pup he growled at me while he was eating. I had rubbed his back and that was all it took. I moved him away from the food flipped him over and pinned him down. Of course I didn't hurt him. But I told him in a very stern and deep voice NO. He has never growled at me again over food. I have only pinned him down when it comes to somthing like that. He is going on 2 and the last time we had to do that he wasn't even a year yet. I think it depends on the reason you are doing this sort of thing. Our Sheperd has never liked strangers. He is a huge baby here at home with us tho. Plus he and Diesel are buds.

I can see how maybe some dogs don't respond very well to this kind of thing. I have never had to do this with Diesel. To be quite honest I don't think he even knows he is a dog! However wiht our Shepherd.... He is just way to be to act certain ways. I guess my point is this. I don't see anything wrong with using this technique as long as it is done in the right manner.

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