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Old 10-04-2009, 09:01 AM   #1
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Exclamation Rehabbing a Puppymill rescue.......excellent advice

I came across this article yesterday and thought it was extremely helpful and informative. I've included the link and article.

Rehab a Puppy Mill Dog

Every mill survivor is different. What works on one or many will completely fail on another. The only thing that is consistent is that they will need lots of patience, understanding and love. And probably most importantly, acceptance: unconditional acceptance of what they are capable of giving and taking.

At first glance, a mill survivor may look like many of your friends' dogs: maybe not a perfect example of the breed, but close. What you won't see is the condition in which they came into rescue. Hair so matted that it all had to be shaved off. Many times, removing the filth and matting have only revealed open sores, usually from flea allergies or sarcoptic mange. Ears are full of filth and usually mites.

Some survivors suffer from permanent hearing loss because of untreated ear infections. Most survivors require the removal of rotten teeth, even young dogs. The gums are usually very infected and the teeth have excessive buildup on them. Many vets who are not familiar with puppy mill rescued dogs will misdiagnose age if going by the teeth. Many survivors also suffer from swollen, splayed and sore feet from a life of walking on wire. Finally, getting some good nutrition and extensive medical care can go a long way on the outside, but the real damage has been done to the inside.

We would love to say that every puppy mill survivor only needs love to become a wonderful family pet, but that would be a lie. Love is definitely needed in large amounts, but so is patience. The damage done during the years in the mill usually can be overcome, but it takes time and dedication. It takes a very special adopter for one of these dogs. Not being "up to it" is no crime, but you need to be honest with yourself, and us, about your expectations. These dogs have been through more than they ever should have already. If the entire family is not willing to make the commitment, the dog is better off staying in our care until the perfect home for them is found.

Handling
Many mill survivors have spent their entire life in the mill. No romping around a living room playing with friends of the family for them. Only a cold wire cage, and one person "tending" to them. Puppies who grow up in a mill miss out on many crucial socialization periods with humans. They don't learn to trust, to love or to play. They have had very minimum physical contact with people. No cuddling and kissing for them.

The physical contact that they have received probably has not been pleasant. For one thing, because they are not handled enough, they are scared. Many mills handle their "stock" by the scruff of the neck. They have work to do, and don't really want to stand around holding some stinky little dog any longer than necessary. So it is not uncommon for these survivors to be sensitive to the backs of their necks, after all, it brings the unexpected.

Many mill dogs will try to always face you, not trusting you enough to give you easy access to them from behind. NEVER startle a mill survivor from behind, you will lose any trust that you may have gained. Always make sure that they are anticipating you picking them up and consistently verbally tell them what you are going to do with the same word, like "up". It is not uncommon for a mill dog to drop their bellies to the floor when they know you are going to pick them up. Some will even roll onto their backs in submission.

Always be gentle and try to avoid picking them up until you see that they are receptive to it. These dogs have to progress at their own pace. Anything you force them to do will not be pleasant to them.

Learning about the house

Many times when you bring a mill survivor into your home, their instinct is to hide in a quiet corner. Optimally, they need to have exposure to the household. If crating, the crate should be in a central location. The ideal spot is one where there is frequent walking and activity. This allows the dog to feel safe in the crate, yet observe everyday activity and become used to it. They need to hear the table being set, the dishwasher running, phones ringing, and people talking. It is fine to cover the back half of the crate with a towel or blanket to give them a sense of security.

Very few mill dogs know what a leash is. During this time when the dog is out of the crate and supervised, it is not a bad idea to let them drag a leash around with them. Let them get used to the feel. It is easy to fall into the mindset that they must be pampered and carried everywhere, but leash training is important. It will make your life easier to have a leash trained dog, but also will offer your dog confidence.

Gaining trust
A mill dog has no reason to trust you. Your trust needs to be earned, little by little. Patience is a very important part. I have seen a lot of mill dogs not want to eat whenever people are around. It is important that your mill dog be fed on a schedule, with you near by. You don't have to stand and watch over them but should be in the same room with them. They need to know that their meal is coming from you. For the majority of mill dogs, accepting a treat right out of your hand is a huge show of trust. Offer treats on a regular basis especially as a reward.

While you shouldn't overly force yourself upon your dog, it does need to get used to you. Sit and talk quietly while gently petting or massaging your dog. It is best to do this in an area where they, not necessarily you, are the most comfortable. They probably won't like it at first, but will get used to it. Some dogs sadly, never do though, and I'll talk more about them later.

Never allow friends to force attention on a mill survivor. Ask them not to look your dog directly in the eyes. It is not uncommon for mill dogs to simply never accept outsiders. Let your dog set the pace. If the dog approaches, ask them to talk quietly and hold out a hand. No quick movements. Ask that any barking be ignored. Remember that dogs bark to warn and scare off intruders. If you acknowledge the barking, you may be reinforcing it with attention. If you bring your guest outside you have just reinforced to your dog that barking will make the intruder go away.
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Old 10-04-2009, 09:03 AM   #2
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Exclamation Part 2

House training
A child spends the first 12-18 months of their life soiling their diaper and having you remove the dirty diaper and replace it with a clean one. A puppy mill dog spends its entire life soiling its living area. Potty training a child and housebreaking a puppy mill dog are the exact same procedures ... you are UN-teaching them something that they have already learned to be acceptable.

A regular schedule, constant reinforcement, praise, and commitment on your part are a must! Would you ever scream at your child, march them to the bathroom and make them sit on the toilet AFTER you discovered they soiled their diaper? A dog is no different in this sense. Scolding them after the deed is done is of no benefit to anyone.

The two most important things you can do are to get your new dog on a regular feeding pattern (which will put them on a regular potty pattern) and observe them closely after feeding time. Getting them on a premium, low residue food is very important. This will produce a stool which normally is firm (very easy to clean up). One or two bowel movements a day is normal. Low-cost foods have a lot of fillers and it is very hard to get a dog on a regular cycle using these products.

Before you even begin to house train, you must learn their schedule. Most dogs will need to 'go' right after eating. As soon as they are finished eating, command "Outside". Always use the exact same word in the exact same tone. Watch them closely outside and observe their pattern as they prepare to defecate. Some will turn circles, some will scratch at the ground, some may find a corner, some may sniff every inch of the ground, some will get a strange look on their face...every dog is different and you have to learn to recognize how the dog will behave right before he goes. This way you will recognize it when he gets ready to go in the house.

Every dog is different. As long as you always keep in mind that housebreaking and potty training are one in the same. Never do to a dog what you would not do to a child. It may take a week, it may take a month, it may take a year ... and sadly, some dogs will never learn. Never give up and never accept 'accidents' as a way of life. In most cases, the success of house training depends on your commitment.

Marking
Puppy mill survivors all have one thing in common ... they were all used for breeding. A dog which marks its territory is 'warning' other dogs that ‘this is my area ... stay away!' However, in a puppy mill situation, the dog's area is normally a 2X4 cage with other dogs in and around their 'territory'. It becomes a constant battle of establishing territory and it is not uncommon to see both male and female survivors with marking problems.

Normally, marking is seen in dogs with a dominant nature. This is good in the sense that these dogs can normally withstand verbal correction better than submissive dogs. The word 'NO' will become your favorite word as you try to deal with the problem of dogs that mark. Don't be afraid to raise your voice and let the dog know that you are not happy. Always use the same word.

Dogs that are marking do not have to potty ... taking them outside will not help. You have to teach them that it is not acceptable to do this in the house. The only way to do this is to constantly show your disappointment and stimulate their need to 'dominate' by taking them outside and even to areas where you know other dogs have been ... like the park or the nearest fire hydrant.

While you and your survivor learn about each other and your survivor develops a sense of respect for you, you will have to protect your home from the damage caused by marking. Here are a few tips that you will find helpful.

White vinegar is your best friend. Keep a spray bottle handy at all times. Use the vinegar anytime you see your dog mark. The vinegar will neutralize the smell that your dog just left behind. Using other cleaning products may actually cause your dog to mark over the same area again.

Most cleaning products contain ammonia...the very scent found in urine. Your dog will feel the need to mark over normal cleaning products, but normally has no interest in areas neutralized by vinegar.

‘Potty Pads' .... your next best friend. These can be found in any pet store, but most 'housebreaking pads' are treated with ammonia to encourage a puppy to go on the pad instead of the carpet. You might check at a home medical supply store. The blue and white pads used to protect beds usually work best. Staple, tape or pin these pads to any area that your dog is prone to mark (walls, furniture, etc.). Do not replace the pads when your dog soils them...simply spray them down with vinegar. These are not a solution to the problem, but will help protect your home while you deal with the problem.
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Old 10-04-2009, 09:03 AM   #3
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Default Part 3

Scotch Guard
Scotch Guard is really nothing more than paraffin based protector. It puts a waxy substance down which repels water and spills (and in this case, urine). You can make your own product by filling a spray bottle about 1/2 full of hot water. Shave off slivers of paraffin wax into the bottle (about 1/4 a bar should be fine) and then microwave until you don't see the slivers anymore. Shake and spray this onto the fabric areas you want to protect, such as the base of the sofa and the carpet below doorways or areas your dog is apt to mark. It may make the area stiff feeling at first but it will normally 'blend' in with normal household temperatures and humidity. (note: This is also great for high traffic areas of your home or along the carpet in front of the couch).

With the use of vinegar and/or homemade scotch guard, you should test a small area of the fabric/fiber that you will be using the product on and make sure it does not discolor, stain, or bleed.

Belly Bands
Sometimes these can be a (male) mill dog owner's best friend. Belly bands can be easily made at home out of things you probably already have. Depending on the size of your dog you can use the elastic end of your husband's tube socks, the sleeve of sweatshirt, etc. Simply fit the material to your dog and then place a female sanitary napkin under the penis. Another easy way is to measure your dog, cut the fabric and sew on Velcro to hold it in place. There are also many sites on the Internet to order these if making them yourself is just not up your alley. Just remember to take the belly band off every time you bring your dog out to potty. Again, this is not a solution, but a protective measure.

Quirks
Nothing is grosser than owning a dog that eats poop! Coprophagia is the technical term, but for the purpose of this article, we're just going to call it the 'affliction' . Dogs of all breeds, ages and sizes have the affliction but in puppy mill rescues, it is not uncommon at all to find dogs afflicted with this horrible habit. As in any bad habit, the cure lies in understanding the unacceptable behavior. There are three primary reasons that a puppy mill survivor is afflicted.

It tastes good and they are hungry! Rescues that have come from a mill where dogs were not fed properly often resort to eating their own or other dog's feces as a source of food. These types of situations will usually remedy themselves when the dog realizes that he is always going to get fed. It is also easy to discourage this behavior by adding over-the-counter products to their food which are manufactured for this purpose. Ask your vet what products are available and you will normally see results in 2-4 weeks.

Learned behavior
This is usually the cause of puppy mill dogs that have the affliction. There are several reasons why a dog learned to behave like this, but the most common cause is being housed with dominant dogs that fight over food. These dominant dogs will often guard the food dish and prevent the more submissive dogs from eating even if the dominant dog is not hungry. Food aggression in caged dogs is usually fast and furious and often results in injury to the submissive dogs. Because the dominant dog is often eating much more than is needed, the stool is virtually undigested and contains many of the nutrients and 'flavors' as the original meal and is therefore almost as tasty to the submissive dog as if he'd ate the real thing.

This eating pattern is usually maintained throughout the dog's life, so the age of your dog will play a big role in how hard it is to correct the behavior. It's become habit...and as the saying goes, "Old habits are hard to break". It may take weeks or months before your dog 'unlearns' to seek out stools.

As mentioned above, Coprophagia means 'eating poop'. Coprophagia is a form of a much more serious problem called Pica. Pica is the unnatural 'need' to eat foreign objects. Dogs suffering from Pica will eat rocks, dirt, sticks, etc. Remember the kid in school who ate paste and chalk and 'other unspeakables' ? Pica is a psychological disorder which is very in depth and serious.

A good rescuer will observe dogs prior to placement and will recognize the seriousness of this problem. A dog suffering from Pica should never be placed in an inexperienced home or any home that is not aware of the problem and the dangers. Dogs suffering from Pica will often end up having surgery ... often several times ... for objects they have ate that can not be digested. If you are the owner of a dog that you believe suffers from Pica, consult your vet.

These dogs often require medication for their disorder and only your vet can guide you on the best way to proceed. True Pica is rare. Most dogs will chew on sticks or rocks...or sofas and table legs. However, a dog suffering from Pica will not just chew on these items. They will eat these items any chance they get. Just because your dog is eating his own stool (and also the bar stool at the kitchen counter) does not mean that he is suffering from Pica. If in doubt, consult your vet.

The "special" ones
Occasionally, we see the survivor who has survived the mill, but at such a great cost that they can never be "brought around". These are the dogs that have endured so much suffering that they remind us of children who are abused who survive by separating their mind from the body. They will never fully trust anyone. So where does that leave these poor souls? Most are still capable of living out a wonderful life.

They need a scheduled environment but most importantly, a home where they are accepted for who and what they are. They may never jump up on a couch and cuddle with you, or bring you a ball to play catch. But you will see the joy that they take in living each day knowing that they will have clean bedding, fresh food and water, and unconditional love. To them, those small comforts alone are pure bliss.



Disclaimer: The preceding is the opinion of the authors (Michelle Bender and Kim Townsend) and is based on their years of experience with dogs and the knowledge they have gained. Also, please note that an adopted puppy mill rescued dog may be at different "stages" of rehab so they have tried to start this from the beginning stand point.
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Old 10-04-2009, 09:41 AM   #4
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Jodi, I can't thank you enough for this article. It couldn't come at a better time. Nicky is making great strides being more comfortable in the home. He still hides when new people come, but he wagged his tail at my sister yesterday and that was a milestone! I just have to get him to the point where he will let someone other than me take him outside and touch him. If I am not home, he will growl and bite anyone who tries to put on his leash, including my daughter. This is hard because she takes care of the dogs after school while I am at work. My dogwalker quit after being bitten quite badly, but luckily understood and was not angry at all. Patience is key and the part about expectations is so well put. Nicky does not give kisses or know how to play and he probably never will, but I have to accept that. He will co-exist with Sadie and Joey, but I don't think he will ever be their playmate, although Joey is not giving up! I feel such love for him and the rewarding and satisfying feeling of saving a Yorkie in need far outweighs what may be lacking in what one would ordinarily think of as a family pet. Thanks again for posting this!
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Old 10-04-2009, 02:04 PM   #5
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What a great post! So many of us have, or are getting ready to adopt a rescued puppymill pup; this will be a big help in understanding them.

Thanks!!
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Old 10-04-2009, 03:36 PM   #6
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Jodi, I can't thank you enough for this article. It couldn't come at a better time. Nicky is making great strides being more comfortable in the home. He still hides when new people come, but he wagged his tail at my sister yesterday and that was a milestone! I just have to get him to the point where he will let someone other than me take him outside and touch him. If I am not home, he will growl and bite anyone who tries to put on his leash, including my daughter. This is hard because she takes care of the dogs after school while I am at work. My dogwalker quit after being bitten quite badly, but luckily understood and was not angry at all. Patience is key and the part about expectations is so well put. Nicky does not give kisses or know how to play and he probably never will, but I have to accept that. He will co-exist with Sadie and Joey, but I don't think he will ever be their playmate, although Joey is not giving up! I feel such love for him and the rewarding and satisfying feeling of saving a Yorkie in need far outweighs what may be lacking in what one would ordinarily think of as a family pet. Thanks again for posting this!
I am so glad that things are going a little better with Nicky. Before long coexistence will become fast friends. You will have to keep me updated as he continues to improve and grow into the pup he was meant to be.
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Old 10-04-2009, 03:38 PM   #7
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What a great post! So many of us have, or are getting ready to adopt a rescued puppymill pup; this will be a big help in understanding them.

Thanks!!
Thank you! Maybe be could give ADMIN a little nudge to make this one a sticky in the Rescue Forum. I was very impressed with all of the information that was given in this article and gave incite into some of the reasons that the rescues act so much differently when they are brought into our homes to live.
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Old 10-04-2009, 04:04 PM   #8
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wow! fantastic post!!!
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Old 10-04-2009, 07:39 PM   #9
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Jodi Thank you for posting all this great info
and thank you for all your tireless time and effort you put in being a great advocate and voice for those who need it most......youre the best
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Old 10-04-2009, 07:53 PM   #10
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Jodi Thank you for posting all this great info
and thank you for all your tireless time and effort you put in being a great advocate and voice for those who need it most......youre the best
Oh thank you! You're so sweet and I know you will help Maria blossom into the wonderful pup that is hiding under all of that horrible puppy mill baggage.

I remember when Bogey didn't know stairs, toys , how to play, cuddle or even to be calm in my lap or arms. Now he is sleeping curled up and relaxed on my lap while I am on YT But there was a time that I didn't know if he would ever be just normal happy pup. It just take time and lots of love. Maria will get there too~

I'm hoping that we can get this made into a Sticky..........wouldn't that be great!
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Old 10-04-2009, 07:59 PM   #11
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Oh thank you! You're so sweet and I know you will help Maria blossom into the wonderful pup that is hiding under all of that horrible puppy mill baggage.

I remember when Bogey didn't know stairs, toys , how to play, cuddle or even to be calm in my lap or arms. Now he is sleeping curled up and relaxed on my lap while I am on YT But there was a time that I didn't know if he would ever be just normal happy pup. It just take time and lots of love. Maria will get there too~

I'm hoping that we can get this made into a Sticky..........wouldn't that be great!
This definitely should be a sticky....its so helpful
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Old 10-05-2009, 02:34 AM   #12
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Jodi what a great post I have had Ivy almost a year and a half and she has come a long way but she will never be like a dog that had love from the beginning Any one that is thinking about a rescue should read this because it is so true. They are not for everyone but the joy you get when you get the first tail wag, or kiss (Ivy will not kiss me, or play) or the look in their eyes that you know that they love you and they will never have to go back and live the life that they came from. But it's a lot of work and that $200.00 dog will fast turn into over a 1000.00 in a very short time. I hope your post is put on the rescue forums.
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Old 10-05-2009, 03:31 AM   #13
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Jodi what a great post I have had Ivy almost a year and a half and she has come a long way but she will never be like a dog that had love from the beginning Any one that is thinking about a rescue should read this because it is so true. They are not for everyone but the joy you get when you get the first tail wag, or kiss (Ivy will not kiss me, or play) or the look in their eyes that you know that they love you and they will never have to go back and live the life that they came from. But it's a lot of work and that $200.00 dog will fast turn into over a 1000.00 in a very short time. I hope your post is put on the rescue forums.
Thanks Cheryl~I have asked to make this permanent but have not heard yet.
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Old 10-05-2009, 04:42 AM   #14
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Yes, yes Admin. please post this as a sticky in the rescue forum! It's info is invaluable and right on target...just what so many of us need.
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Old 10-05-2009, 06:02 AM   #15
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What a great post. Well-written, easy to follow, encouraging to the rescuer! I haven't rescued a dog, but I'm actually going to print this post (being the dinosaur that i am) and file it. Even if I don't become a rescue mom, it's still full of useful and practical info. Thank you so much!
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