Help!!! Sabrina Is Going Into Labor??? - Page 2 - YorkieTalk.com Forums

feminvstr · 12-25-2006, 09:39 PM

you could be in the beginnings of labor....have you seen the water sac yet?

newmommy · 12-25-2006, 09:40 PM

how is she now??

newmommy · 12-25-2006, 09:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nydia

is it okay to give her some nutri-cal for a little bit of energy while she is in labor or is that a bad idea???

just offer her water, she might not eat and plus it may make her sick

nydia · 12-25-2006, 09:43 PM

she just sat up and pushed twice then layed back down...no sack, no blood, no nothing but a clear, slimy discharge. I offered her water and she didn't want any she turned her head to it. I am soooo nervous.

newmommy · 12-25-2006, 09:47 PM

she may push for a while before a sac appears. she is pushing the puppies down into position.

feminvstr · 12-25-2006, 09:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nydia

she just sat up and pushed twice then layed back down...no sack, no blood, no nothing but a clear, slimy discharge. I offered her water and she didn't want any she turned her head to it. I am soooo nervous.

as long as she is not destressed in labor and resting between contracts thats a good thing. how long has she been doing this now and how far apart are the contractions?

nydia · 12-25-2006, 09:50 PM

She just got out of her bed and went to her potty she started to make a grunt noise like she was pushing but she got off of the potty and there was just a small drop of pee...now she is laying back in her whelp box and staring at me.

nydia · 12-25-2006, 09:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by feminvstr

as long as she is not destressed in labor and resting between contracts thats a good thing. how long has she been doing this now and how far apart are the contractions?

I would say the contractions are about 20 minutes apart, she started acting funny and having a discharge around 10 but she didn't really start having contraction until about 11:15 or so, she has been pushing off and on since then I can say all together since 10 I've seen her get in a pushing position four times and she pushed 3 times while laying on her side, now she is laying on her stomach sleeping.

newmommy · 12-25-2006, 09:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nydia

She just got out of her bed and went to her potty she started to make a grunt noise like she was pushing but she got off of the potty and there was just a small drop of pee...now she is laying back in her whelp box and staring at me.

she will stare, probably pant, dig and become restless. she is uncomfortable and she wants YOU to be there with her. talk to her, rub her. offer her water.

nydia · 12-25-2006, 10:04 PM

How long will it take for her to reach hard labor??? what stage in labor will I see a sack???

newmommy · 12-25-2006, 10:10 PM

Overview Highlights of Pregnancy
In the first 6 weeks of pregnancy everything should remain as usual. She should be allowed to run & play all she wants and food amount should remain the same! At 28-30 days into the pregnancy (from first breeding) she should be checked to confirm that she is actually pregnant.

Once pregnancy is confirmed, you can start to change her over to puppy food slowly! At about 6 weeks after breeding, you should start to increase the amount of food and restrict some of the play time. Jumping and roughhousing should be avoided!

As the need for food increases, the size of the stomach decreases due to puppies getting bigger. That is why the number of feedings is increased and may be as many as 5 meals per day depending on the number of puppies present.

At 55 days, I do an x-ray to help determine how many puppies are present. I have known of females who have their labor end after a couple of puppies when the owner knew that there were more that needed to be delivered. Several puppies and their Mom's have been saved by the knowledge of how many puppies to expect before giving up!

Highlights of Whelping
I Supplies Needed

Notebook & pencil to record time, sex, weight, etc.
A scale for weighing puppies
Clean dry cloths/towels for drying, rubbing & possibly catching puppies
Scissors & hemostats for clamping & cutting cords
Alcohol for cleaning the scissors & hemostats
Old sheets for Mom to nest & deliver puppies (I usually get material from Wal-Mart for $1.00/yard, I use the t-shirt type of material)
Ice water & warm water
Whiskey & an eye dropper for the stubborn pup who doesn't want to breathe
Iodine tincture for the cut end of the puppys' cord
An ear bulb syringe for aspirating the puppy to facilitate breathing
LOTS of paper towels for cleaning up during whelping
K-Y Jelly for taking temperature etc...
Thermometer
Heat lamp or hot water bottle
Disposable latex gloves
A pot of hot coffee for the long night ahead.
II How to Know When Mom is Ready

Usually the first indication will be her Temperature will go down at least 1 degree. This is one reason why it is important to take her temperature at the same time every morning & night from at least a week before her due date. It may go up & down, but when it stays down be prepared.
You may see her cleaning herself often. She may start cleaning her vulva & her breasts in preperation for her babies. She may also have a blood tinged mucous discharge.
She will make a Nest, hopefully in the whelping box, by Digging through the sheets that you have put in there for her.
She will start to have Frequent Soft Stools, & will begin Panting. Now you know she is ready! Expect a late night delivery, since they seem to like to keep you up all night.
Take her temperature every 2 hours after she starts panting.
III When to Start Worrying

Never let her temperature go below 97 degrees. If it does start to go down call the Vet immediately.
Puppies usually arrive within 5-10 minutes after the water breaks. NEVER LET HER GO WITHOUT A PUPPY FOR MORE THEN AN HOUR AFTER THE WATER BREAKS.
Some signs of trouble are: Severe restlessness, sudden lack of puppy movement, a greenish colored discharge, & any indication that she might be in pain.
IV Breech Puppies

You will see the pink little feet first. You can't do anything until the puppy is out. Always break the sac at the FACE FIRST even with a breech.
If the sac breaks before the pup is all the way out, it could drown. NEVER break the sac in a breech puppy until the pup is all the way out.
V Opening the Sac

Use your finger and do the face first as previously mentioned.
When the sac is off the face, stick your finger into the puppy's mouth & scoop out anything inside.
If you start to see bubbles, then aspirate gently with the ear bulb syringe. ALWAYS ASPERATE THE MOUTH FIRST.
Do ALL OF THE ABOVE before you worry about the cord.
VI Cutting Cords

Use the Hemostats & clamp the cord 2 inches away from the puppy. Cut the cord on the side away from the puppy.
Do not cut too far away from the hemostats.
Put iodine all over the cut end of the cord.
VII Short Cords

Put a glove on & cover it with K-Y Jelly.
Carefully put your finger inside the bitch & wrap your finger around the cord.
Pull gently during a contraction. ONLY PULL DURING THE CONTRACTION.
VIII Swinging Puppies

Hold the puppy in a towel because the pup will be too slippery to grasp firmly with your hands.
Grasp the puppy FIRMLY NOT TIGHTLY in your hands with your thumbs behind the puppy's head/neck.
Hold the puppy above your head & swing gently downwards. Do not jerk, or swing fast. It should be a solid flowing movement.
IX Between Whelps

After the puppy is breathing and seems to be doing well, give it to Mom to nurse. The puppy should begin nursing right away! If not, you may have to help it by holding it to a nipple. Being born can be exhausting!
When the next puppy is on it's way, you put the first one(s) to the side under the heat lamp or on a warm hot water bottle.
Sometimes the bitch will become very restles when the next pup is coming. That is why you take the first one(s) away at that time. They can go back to nursing after the pup is born.
X Nourishment During Whelping

Give her Swanson's Chicken Broth to help keep her strength up between puppies.
If she will not take the broth then give her water, but try to get her to take the broth.
XI During Whelping

Try to keep the bedding as dry & clean as possible. This is where the paper towels come in handy. There will be a lot of liquid from the whelping & you need to use the paper towels to soak at least some of it up. You should also have a large garbage bag to put the soiled paper towels.
It would be a good idea to put down lots of paper towels & put a sheet on top of them for the next puppy. The paper towels will keep it semi-dry in the box. Then between puppies you can throw away the old paper towels & put new ones.
XII After Whelping

Let the family rest for about an hour, then take Mom out (very reluctantly) to relieve herself and clean the entire bed.
Put the pups in a warm spot & take all of the bedding out of the box.It would be a good idea to have another large bag to put the bedding in until you are done cleaning out the box & can take it to the washing machine.
You need to wash the bedding right away. Put it in the washer & let it sit in cold water for a while, it will be easier to clean once you are ready to start the washer.
You need to change the bedding EVERY DAY & put new clean bedding in.
I use baby blankets during the day to cover soiled spots in the box. The receiving blankets work very well!
XIII Veterinary Care

Take the puppies and Mom to the Veterinarian within 24 hours for puppy exams & a clean out shot for mom.
Have the tails & dew claws done at 4-5 days old.
Consult your vet for a schedule of puppy shots.

hope this helps some :0)

newmommy · 12-25-2006, 10:12 PM

here is some more

Pre-labor
Usually dogs increase their digging, restlessness, panting, and nesting behavior within the last 12 to 24 hours before whelping (about the same time their temperature drops below 99 degrees). She may refuse to eat just prior to whelping. You may observe some abdominal rippling or contractions, but you will not see your dog pushing at this stage. This stage can last up to 24 hours. Do not leave your dog unattended once her temperature has dropped.

Labor
Labor begins when your dog begins to push out the puppies. Sometimes dogs act like they have to relieve themselves and want to go out. Go out with your dog and watch her carefully. She may actually be delivering a puppy. Dogs can deliver puppies from many different positions, including laying down, sitting, squatting, and standing. Some dogs are silent while others grunt, whine, cry, or howl while pushing. Puppies can be born head first or rear-end first; each way is normal. Sometimes a rush of clear fluid comes out before the puppy.

When a puppy is delivered through the vaginal area, the puppy may or may not be enclosed in a fluid filled sac. Your dog should lick at the new arrival and may bite and tear at the sac with her teeth. Sometimes she may pick up the puppy in her mouth. When placenta arrives she may eat it. It is not necessary to keep track of the number of placentas she passes as retained placentas are not a problem in dogs. Dogs use their teeth to rip the umbilical cord near the puppy's tummy. If a pup only comes part way out, you can help the mom and gently pull on the pup (see below).

If your dog does not perform the tasks of licking and getting rid of the membranes, then you will need to help. Since puppies are very slippery, use your washcloths to firmly grasp the puppy and wipe away all the fluid and sac from its face. Rub the puppy vigorously until you hear a cry. Use the ear syringe to suction fluid from the mouth and nostrils. You can use the floss or thread to tie off the umbilical cord about one inch from the puppy's tummy. Then, saw the cord with the scissors blade.

If the puppy seems to be lifeless or gasping for breath, firmly grasp the puppy and washcloth in both hands, puppy's tummy toward the ground. Support the puppy's neck well. Swing the puppy firmly toward the ground in an arc, being careful not to let the puppy hit the ground or other objects. Repeat this several times, rubbing the puppy vigorously in between swings. Use the ear syringe to again suction the mouth and nostrils. This procedure should clear the lungs of fluid and stimulate the puppy. The puppy's mucous membranes should be pink when it is doing well.

Once the puppy is cleaned up, dried off, and breathing well, weigh it and record its weight. Daily weighing of the pups is important and is the easiest method for making sure they are doing well. If all your puppies look alike, you can mark them each with a nail polish on different toes or different places on their bodies. You can also use different color ribbon. Make certain to change the ribbons as the puppies get bigger. Check the puppies frequently to make certain they do not get caught by their collars.

After the puppy is weighed, place it with its mother. Help the puppy find a nipple and latch on. Watch to make sure it does not slip off the nipple. You may need to open its mouth and place it on the nipple to help it get the idea. It is important that each puppy gets some of the milk on the first day, since it has special antibodies. Contented puppies nurse vigorously and sleep quietly, although they twitch and move while sleeping. Newborn puppies that are constantly crying are probably hungry, cold, or uncomfortable.

Your dog should deliver each puppy within about one hour of continuous pushing. She may rest for several hours (or several minutes) between puppies. Provide her with some food and water during the delivery period, although she may not want to eat or drink. Delivering a large litter may take over 12 hours, including rest periods. It is a good idea to have a shoe box lined with towels available in which to place pups while the mother delivers the next puppy. This small box must be kept at about 85 degrees. Use a heating pad buried under several layers of towels or a light bulb above the box. Monitor the temperature with the room thermometer. NEVER place puppies directly on the heating pad or they may burn. Then put all the pups back with the mother between delivery of pups. Nursing puppies stimulate uterine contractions and may help keep the labor moving along.

Important signs to watch for during delivery:

If you see any green discharge BEFORE the first puppy arrives, please call your veterinarian. Green discharge AFTER the first puppy arrives is NORMAL.
If your dog strains continuously for one hour and no puppy arrives, please call your veterinarian. A puppy may be stuck somewhere in the birth canal.
Puppy stuck in the birth canal
Sometimes puppies get lodged just before making it all the way out. You may be able to help move the puppy along. If you can see part of the puppy hanging out of the vaginal area, use a washcloth to firmly grasp the puppy. Make certain that you are able grasp more than one tiny body part. If just one leg is out, gently feel around to see if the other leg is accessible. Once you have a good grasp maintain gentle, steady pressure DOWNWARD, in the direction of the line of the birth mother's tail since that is the direction of the birth canal. As she pushes, you need to increase your pull; when she stops pushing, maintain the puppy's position rather than letting it get sucked back in. The puppy should come out within a minute or so. If you can not grasp the puppy, or if no progress is made, please call and bring your dog in IMMEDIATELY.

After the puppies have all arrived
Once you are certain that all the puppies have arrived clean up the area and put the puppies with their mother in the box. Make sure the mother has had a chance to relieve herself, although it may be difficult to get her to leave the pups. The mother will continue to have a great deal of discharge for the next few weeks. She may also pass some placentas after all the pups have arrived. The discharge during this period may be red, brown, green, or black in color. Watch for any signs of pus in the discharge. Also watch the mother for refusal to eat, fever, or listlessness. Contact your veterinarian immediately if any of these signs are present.

Generally, the mother should eat heartily for the next few weeks. If she has three or fewer puppies feed her the regular amount of food. If her litter is larger, feed her as much food as she wants. Divide her food into several meals, rather than giving her one huge meal a day. It is also very important that she have free access to fresh water at all times, as this helps maintain milk production.

Puppies are unable to maintain their own body temperatures during the first week of life. The mother's mammary glands provide the heat, as well as the food, for the puppies. They will cuddle up to her or "dog pile" on each other when they are not nursing. Keep the puppy area warm and draft free. A room temperature of about 70 degrees should be sufficient. If the mother is in the box with the pups, there is no need to use a heat lamp or heating pad, in fact these may confuse the puppies about where to go to get food, make the mother very uncomfortable, or overheat the pups. If the pups are in a large area without their mother, then a carefully placed heat lamp may be helpful in cold weather. Ask your veterinarian for details.

As previously noted, it is very important to monitor the puppies' weights on a daily basis. Sometimes the pups may lose a tiny bit of weight the first day, but after that they should make steady gains. Weight loss or lack of weight are important signs that the puppy is not doing well. Make certain that each puppy is getting sufficient time at a nipple several times throughout the day. Note if any pups are not able to hold onto the nipple, are pushed away from the mother on a regular basis, or have milk coming out of their noses. Check their umbilical areas for signs of redness or infection. Contact your veterinarian if you notice any of these signs.

The mother should stimulate the puppies to eliminate on a regular basis by licking them vigorously. If she does not lick them, it is important that you stimulate them. Take a cotton ball or washcloth and soak it in warm water. Squeeze out the extra water and gently wipe the area from under the puppy's tail to its tummy. Make sure to include the penis for the boy puppies. As the pups get older the mother will usually continue to lick them, as well as lick up any puddles or piles they leave.
Pet Health Topics

► Toxins
► Medications
► Whelping (Dogs)
► Puppy Care
► Kitten Care

nydia · 12-25-2006, 10:37 PM

So far she's been resting, she did get up a few minutes ago and started digging but when she was done she just layed down, no pushing, no discharge except the slimy clear stuff...still watching and waiting.

backagain39 · 12-25-2006, 11:16 PM

hey...how is she doing now?......any changes yet?

backagain39 · 12-26-2006, 12:26 AM

Hey girl,

I am headed to bed........just wanted to say I wish you and momma all the best and I am thinking about you two. Take care and I will check the posts tomorrow and hopefully everything goes smoothly and you will have beautiful puppies!!!!!

I noticed that feminvstr gave you her number........call her if you need some help, she sounds like an experienced person on yorkie deliveries.....

Again wishing you all the best.

goodnite........

12-25-2006, 09:39 PM	#16
feminvstr Donating YT 4000 Club Member Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Portland Oregon Posts: 4,405	you could be in the beginnings of labor....have you seen the water sac yet? __________________ Kimberly

12-25-2006, 09:40 PM	#17
newmommy Keep Me Away From eBay Donating Member Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Arizona Posts: 2,109	how is she now?? __________________ There is no psychiatrist in the world like a puppy licking your face!!

12-25-2006, 09:47 PM	#20
newmommy Keep Me Away From eBay Donating Member Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Arizona Posts: 2,109	she may push for a while before a sac appears. she is pushing the puppies down into position. __________________ There is no psychiatrist in the world like a puppy licking your face!!

12-25-2006, 10:10 PM	#26
newmommy Keep Me Away From eBay Donating Member Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Arizona Posts: 2,109	Overview Highlights of Pregnancy In the first 6 weeks of pregnancy everything should remain as usual. She should be allowed to run & play all she wants and food amount should remain the same! At 28-30 days into the pregnancy (from first breeding) she should be checked to confirm that she is actually pregnant. Once pregnancy is confirmed, you can start to change her over to puppy food slowly! At about 6 weeks after breeding, you should start to increase the amount of food and restrict some of the play time. Jumping and roughhousing should be avoided! As the need for food increases, the size of the stomach decreases due to puppies getting bigger. That is why the number of feedings is increased and may be as many as 5 meals per day depending on the number of puppies present. At 55 days, I do an x-ray to help determine how many puppies are present. I have known of females who have their labor end after a couple of puppies when the owner knew that there were more that needed to be delivered. Several puppies and their Mom's have been saved by the knowledge of how many puppies to expect before giving up! Highlights of Whelping I Supplies Needed Notebook & pencil to record time, sex, weight, etc. A scale for weighing puppies Clean dry cloths/towels for drying, rubbing & possibly catching puppies Scissors & hemostats for clamping & cutting cords Alcohol for cleaning the scissors & hemostats Old sheets for Mom to nest & deliver puppies (I usually get material from Wal-Mart for $1.00/yard, I use the t-shirt type of material) Ice water & warm water Whiskey & an eye dropper for the stubborn pup who doesn't want to breathe Iodine tincture for the cut end of the puppys' cord An ear bulb syringe for aspirating the puppy to facilitate breathing LOTS of paper towels for cleaning up during whelping K-Y Jelly for taking temperature etc... Thermometer Heat lamp or hot water bottle Disposable latex gloves A pot of hot coffee for the long night ahead. II How to Know When Mom is Ready Usually the first indication will be her Temperature will go down at least 1 degree. This is one reason why it is important to take her temperature at the same time every morning & night from at least a week before her due date. It may go up & down, but when it stays down be prepared. You may see her cleaning herself often. She may start cleaning her vulva & her breasts in preperation for her babies. She may also have a blood tinged mucous discharge. She will make a Nest, hopefully in the whelping box, by Digging through the sheets that you have put in there for her. She will start to have Frequent Soft Stools, & will begin Panting. Now you know she is ready! Expect a late night delivery, since they seem to like to keep you up all night. Take her temperature every 2 hours after she starts panting. III When to Start Worrying Never let her temperature go below 97 degrees. If it does start to go down call the Vet immediately. Puppies usually arrive within 5-10 minutes after the water breaks. NEVER LET HER GO WITHOUT A PUPPY FOR MORE THEN AN HOUR AFTER THE WATER BREAKS. Some signs of trouble are: Severe restlessness, sudden lack of puppy movement, a greenish colored discharge, & any indication that she might be in pain. IV Breech Puppies You will see the pink little feet first. You can't do anything until the puppy is out. Always break the sac at the FACE FIRST even with a breech. If the sac breaks before the pup is all the way out, it could drown. NEVER break the sac in a breech puppy until the pup is all the way out. V Opening the Sac Use your finger and do the face first as previously mentioned. When the sac is off the face, stick your finger into the puppy's mouth & scoop out anything inside. If you start to see bubbles, then aspirate gently with the ear bulb syringe. ALWAYS ASPERATE THE MOUTH FIRST. Do ALL OF THE ABOVE before you worry about the cord. VI Cutting Cords Use the Hemostats & clamp the cord 2 inches away from the puppy. Cut the cord on the side away from the puppy. Do not cut too far away from the hemostats. Put iodine all over the cut end of the cord. VII Short Cords Put a glove on & cover it with K-Y Jelly. Carefully put your finger inside the bitch & wrap your finger around the cord. Pull gently during a contraction. ONLY PULL DURING THE CONTRACTION. VIII Swinging Puppies Hold the puppy in a towel because the pup will be too slippery to grasp firmly with your hands. Grasp the puppy FIRMLY NOT TIGHTLY in your hands with your thumbs behind the puppy's head/neck. Hold the puppy above your head & swing gently downwards. Do not jerk, or swing fast. It should be a solid flowing movement. IX Between Whelps After the puppy is breathing and seems to be doing well, give it to Mom to nurse. The puppy should begin nursing right away! If not, you may have to help it by holding it to a nipple. Being born can be exhausting! When the next puppy is on it's way, you put the first one(s) to the side under the heat lamp or on a warm hot water bottle. Sometimes the bitch will become very restles when the next pup is coming. That is why you take the first one(s) away at that time. They can go back to nursing after the pup is born. X Nourishment During Whelping Give her Swanson's Chicken Broth to help keep her strength up between puppies. If she will not take the broth then give her water, but try to get her to take the broth. XI During Whelping Try to keep the bedding as dry & clean as possible. This is where the paper towels come in handy. There will be a lot of liquid from the whelping & you need to use the paper towels to soak at least some of it up. You should also have a large garbage bag to put the soiled paper towels. It would be a good idea to put down lots of paper towels & put a sheet on top of them for the next puppy. The paper towels will keep it semi-dry in the box. Then between puppies you can throw away the old paper towels & put new ones. XII After Whelping Let the family rest for about an hour, then take Mom out (very reluctantly) to relieve herself and clean the entire bed. Put the pups in a warm spot & take all of the bedding out of the box.It would be a good idea to have another large bag to put the bedding in until you are done cleaning out the box & can take it to the washing machine. You need to wash the bedding right away. Put it in the washer & let it sit in cold water for a while, it will be easier to clean once you are ready to start the washer. You need to change the bedding EVERY DAY & put new clean bedding in. I use baby blankets during the day to cover soiled spots in the box. The receiving blankets work very well! XIII Veterinary Care Take the puppies and Mom to the Veterinarian within 24 hours for puppy exams & a clean out shot for mom. Have the tails & dew claws done at 4-5 days old. Consult your vet for a schedule of puppy shots. hope this helps some :0) __________________ There is no psychiatrist in the world like a puppy licking your face!!

12-25-2006, 10:12 PM	#27
newmommy Keep Me Away From eBay Donating Member Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Arizona Posts: 2,109	here is some more Pre-labor Usually dogs increase their digging, restlessness, panting, and nesting behavior within the last 12 to 24 hours before whelping (about the same time their temperature drops below 99 degrees). She may refuse to eat just prior to whelping. You may observe some abdominal rippling or contractions, but you will not see your dog pushing at this stage. This stage can last up to 24 hours. Do not leave your dog unattended once her temperature has dropped. Labor Labor begins when your dog begins to push out the puppies. Sometimes dogs act like they have to relieve themselves and want to go out. Go out with your dog and watch her carefully. She may actually be delivering a puppy. Dogs can deliver puppies from many different positions, including laying down, sitting, squatting, and standing. Some dogs are silent while others grunt, whine, cry, or howl while pushing. Puppies can be born head first or rear-end first; each way is normal. Sometimes a rush of clear fluid comes out before the puppy. When a puppy is delivered through the vaginal area, the puppy may or may not be enclosed in a fluid filled sac. Your dog should lick at the new arrival and may bite and tear at the sac with her teeth. Sometimes she may pick up the puppy in her mouth. When placenta arrives she may eat it. It is not necessary to keep track of the number of placentas she passes as retained placentas are not a problem in dogs. Dogs use their teeth to rip the umbilical cord near the puppy's tummy. If a pup only comes part way out, you can help the mom and gently pull on the pup (see below). If your dog does not perform the tasks of licking and getting rid of the membranes, then you will need to help. Since puppies are very slippery, use your washcloths to firmly grasp the puppy and wipe away all the fluid and sac from its face. Rub the puppy vigorously until you hear a cry. Use the ear syringe to suction fluid from the mouth and nostrils. You can use the floss or thread to tie off the umbilical cord about one inch from the puppy's tummy. Then, saw the cord with the scissors blade. If the puppy seems to be lifeless or gasping for breath, firmly grasp the puppy and washcloth in both hands, puppy's tummy toward the ground. Support the puppy's neck well. Swing the puppy firmly toward the ground in an arc, being careful not to let the puppy hit the ground or other objects. Repeat this several times, rubbing the puppy vigorously in between swings. Use the ear syringe to again suction the mouth and nostrils. This procedure should clear the lungs of fluid and stimulate the puppy. The puppy's mucous membranes should be pink when it is doing well. Once the puppy is cleaned up, dried off, and breathing well, weigh it and record its weight. Daily weighing of the pups is important and is the easiest method for making sure they are doing well. If all your puppies look alike, you can mark them each with a nail polish on different toes or different places on their bodies. You can also use different color ribbon. Make certain to change the ribbons as the puppies get bigger. Check the puppies frequently to make certain they do not get caught by their collars. After the puppy is weighed, place it with its mother. Help the puppy find a nipple and latch on. Watch to make sure it does not slip off the nipple. You may need to open its mouth and place it on the nipple to help it get the idea. It is important that each puppy gets some of the milk on the first day, since it has special antibodies. Contented puppies nurse vigorously and sleep quietly, although they twitch and move while sleeping. Newborn puppies that are constantly crying are probably hungry, cold, or uncomfortable. Your dog should deliver each puppy within about one hour of continuous pushing. She may rest for several hours (or several minutes) between puppies. Provide her with some food and water during the delivery period, although she may not want to eat or drink. Delivering a large litter may take over 12 hours, including rest periods. It is a good idea to have a shoe box lined with towels available in which to place pups while the mother delivers the next puppy. This small box must be kept at about 85 degrees. Use a heating pad buried under several layers of towels or a light bulb above the box. Monitor the temperature with the room thermometer. NEVER place puppies directly on the heating pad or they may burn. Then put all the pups back with the mother between delivery of pups. Nursing puppies stimulate uterine contractions and may help keep the labor moving along. Important signs to watch for during delivery: If you see any green discharge BEFORE the first puppy arrives, please call your veterinarian. Green discharge AFTER the first puppy arrives is NORMAL. If your dog strains continuously for one hour and no puppy arrives, please call your veterinarian. A puppy may be stuck somewhere in the birth canal. Puppy stuck in the birth canal Sometimes puppies get lodged just before making it all the way out. You may be able to help move the puppy along. If you can see part of the puppy hanging out of the vaginal area, use a washcloth to firmly grasp the puppy. Make certain that you are able grasp more than one tiny body part. If just one leg is out, gently feel around to see if the other leg is accessible. Once you have a good grasp maintain gentle, steady pressure DOWNWARD, in the direction of the line of the birth mother's tail since that is the direction of the birth canal. As she pushes, you need to increase your pull; when she stops pushing, maintain the puppy's position rather than letting it get sucked back in. The puppy should come out within a minute or so. If you can not grasp the puppy, or if no progress is made, please call and bring your dog in IMMEDIATELY. After the puppies have all arrived Once you are certain that all the puppies have arrived clean up the area and put the puppies with their mother in the box. Make sure the mother has had a chance to relieve herself, although it may be difficult to get her to leave the pups. The mother will continue to have a great deal of discharge for the next few weeks. She may also pass some placentas after all the pups have arrived. The discharge during this period may be red, brown, green, or black in color. Watch for any signs of pus in the discharge. Also watch the mother for refusal to eat, fever, or listlessness. Contact your veterinarian immediately if any of these signs are present. Generally, the mother should eat heartily for the next few weeks. If she has three or fewer puppies feed her the regular amount of food. If her litter is larger, feed her as much food as she wants. Divide her food into several meals, rather than giving her one huge meal a day. It is also very important that she have free access to fresh water at all times, as this helps maintain milk production. Puppies are unable to maintain their own body temperatures during the first week of life. The mother's mammary glands provide the heat, as well as the food, for the puppies. They will cuddle up to her or "dog pile" on each other when they are not nursing. Keep the puppy area warm and draft free. A room temperature of about 70 degrees should be sufficient. If the mother is in the box with the pups, there is no need to use a heat lamp or heating pad, in fact these may confuse the puppies about where to go to get food, make the mother very uncomfortable, or overheat the pups. If the pups are in a large area without their mother, then a carefully placed heat lamp may be helpful in cold weather. Ask your veterinarian for details. As previously noted, it is very important to monitor the puppies' weights on a daily basis. Sometimes the pups may lose a tiny bit of weight the first day, but after that they should make steady gains. Weight loss or lack of weight are important signs that the puppy is not doing well. Make certain that each puppy is getting sufficient time at a nipple several times throughout the day. Note if any pups are not able to hold onto the nipple, are pushed away from the mother on a regular basis, or have milk coming out of their noses. Check their umbilical areas for signs of redness or infection. Contact your veterinarian if you notice any of these signs. The mother should stimulate the puppies to eliminate on a regular basis by licking them vigorously. If she does not lick them, it is important that you stimulate them. Take a cotton ball or washcloth and soak it in warm water. Squeeze out the extra water and gently wipe the area from under the puppy's tail to its tummy. Make sure to include the penis for the boy puppies. As the pups get older the mother will usually continue to lick them, as well as lick up any puddles or piles they leave. Pet Health Topics ► Toxins ► Medications ► Whelping (Dogs) ► Puppy Care ► Kitten Care __________________ There is no psychiatrist in the world like a puppy licking your face!!

12-25-2006, 09:43 PM	#19
nydia Donating Senior Yorkie Talker Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Connecticut Posts: 292	she just sat up and pushed twice then layed back down...no sack, no blood, no nothing but a clear, slimy discharge. I offered her water and she didn't want any she turned her head to it. I am soooo nervous.

12-25-2006, 09:50 PM	#22
nydia Donating Senior Yorkie Talker Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Connecticut Posts: 292	She just got out of her bed and went to her potty she started to make a grunt noise like she was pushing but she got off of the potty and there was just a small drop of pee...now she is laying back in her whelp box and staring at me.

12-25-2006, 10:04 PM	#25
nydia Donating Senior Yorkie Talker Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Connecticut Posts: 292	How long will it take for her to reach hard labor??? what stage in labor will I see a sack???

12-25-2006, 10:37 PM	#28
nydia Donating Senior Yorkie Talker Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Connecticut Posts: 292	So far she's been resting, she did get up a few minutes ago and started digging but when she was done she just layed down, no pushing, no discharge except the slimy clear stuff...still watching and waiting.

12-25-2006, 11:16 PM	#29
backagain39 Donating Senior Yorkie Talker Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Maryland Posts: 125	hey...how is she doing now?......any changes yet?

12-26-2006, 12:26 AM	#30
backagain39 Donating Senior Yorkie Talker Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Maryland Posts: 125	Hey girl, I am headed to bed........just wanted to say I wish you and momma all the best and I am thinking about you two. Take care and I will check the posts tomorrow and hopefully everything goes smoothly and you will have beautiful puppies!!!!! I noticed that feminvstr gave you her number........call her if you need some help, she sounds like an experienced person on yorkie deliveries..... Again wishing you all the best. goodnite........