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05-15-2016, 10:59 AM | #1 |
Yorkie Talker Join Date: Mar 2016 Location: Texas
Posts: 16
| My dog has bitten me to the point where I bled So I've had him for awhile and he always tried to bite my hand and I correct it and say no in a firm voice but he continues. I've tried yelping in a high pitched voice and he continues. I've walked away from him so he knows that he lost his buddy but when I come back he continues biting even when I continue this process. He bites everyone and everything. When I'm walking he tries to play tug a war with my shoes. And never releases and growls. He even has things in his mouth like paper and when I try to take t away he runs and squirms when I have him. I've token it out of his mouth but he bites me to the point where I'm bleeding. This is the first time he's done it to me but he's done it to my sister. It hurts and I want this to stop. What can I do? I'm running out of options. Btw he's 13 weeks old |
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05-15-2016, 11:36 AM | #2 |
♥ Maximo and Teddy Donating Member Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Northern Virginia
Posts: 25,041
| At 13 weeks old, he has his super sharp puppy teeth, so I can imagine he has drawn blood. The biting problem is not going to be solved overnight or even in a week. Being a puppy, he is testing his boundaries. Keep consistently doing the yelping, firmly saying "no bite," and withdrawing attention and removing the biting targets like your hands and feet. Stay in control and calm, but firm. If you get worked up, your puppy will be more reactive. When he grabs something he shouldn't, like the paper, say "drop it." Training for "drop it" or "leave it" is essential. You may have to hold him and work to remove whatever it is you want him to drop. When he finally lets go, reward him. The trick is to try not to let training turn into a fun game of chase when they have something naughty. Work on training in general. The earlier you start with basic commands like sit, down, stay, the better. Plus it gives them a sense of accomplishment and structure. Having a daily routine of activities, from mealtimes, to brief play and training sessions, and so on will have a positive effect on overall behavior.
__________________ Kristin, Max and Teddy |
05-15-2016, 11:39 AM | #3 |
♥ Maximo and Teddy Donating Member Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Northern Virginia
Posts: 25,041
| One more note: puppy proof your home. Keep everything he shouldn't have out of reach. We even keep our shoes where the dogs can get to them. I think that is one of the reasons my guys never became shoe chewers. When I leave mine out for awhile, they don't bother them.
__________________ Kristin, Max and Teddy |
05-15-2016, 12:42 PM | #4 |
Rosehill Yorkies Donating YT Member Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Houston Texas
Posts: 9,462
| This is a behavior that is normally addressed by momma dog....which is another reason to not purchase puppies under 14-16 weeks old....these are all lessons that momma dog teaches her babies, and she will do a much better job of it than a human surrogate will do. Patience and understanding on your part, that this is normal behavior for a puppy....this is the only way they can explore and get a feel for their environment....just like human babies, everything goes into the mouth. This is also how teething pain is relieved, again as in human babies....gnawing, chewing, gumming, sucking on, etc, etc, etc.... Understanding age development in puppies and what behavior is to be expected, and why and how it is "normal behavior" and how it can be redirected, is most productive. Some behaviors can not and should not be expected to be corrected because that is the behavior for that particular age bracket, and just like you can not expected to "teach or train" a human baby not to suck when it is 8 weeks old, there are behaviors that can not be "trained" from happening in a puppy....which is why it is so important for people to understand what is NORMAL behavior at any given age, in their puppy. Depriving or punishing or correcting "normal, expected behavior" in a puppy, will do nothing more than cause permanent behavioral issues as the puppy ages. I wish new owners would become thoroughly educated about what is NORMAL behavior at any given age, for a puppy, before trying to correct or eradicate such behavior in an underage baby. You have to be aware what is normal behavior for that age, and then work with the behavior until the baby gets through that stage. If you have a puppy that has been removed too early from its momma, who would be doing the teaching of these lessons, then it is imperative that you are knowledgable about the normal developmental progress of any puppy at any given age, and learn how to deeal with that behavior as momma dog would be doing.....otherwise, you will probably have a puppy that will exhibit behaviors that reflect that "early childhood deprivation". You can not teach a human baby not to suck on a nipple, any more than you can teach an underage puppy not to mouth and chew and "bite" on items it comes in contact with....that is normal behavior, that is how both species' babies learn about existing, about living, about learning.....you must know what should be considered acceptable degrees of biting, chewing, etc and at what age these behaviors can be corrected and by what measure. Last edited by Yorkiemom1; 05-15-2016 at 12:44 PM. |
05-15-2016, 01:04 PM | #5 |
YT 2000 Club Member Join Date: Sep 2014 Location: Lake Geneva, WI
Posts: 2,776
| Have another 'chewy' toy ready to replace whatever you're taking from him...Strong, firm "no" (however, don't use his name with anything negative), take item and immediately give him the a good rubber (chew-worthy) toy and happily and excitedly tell him "Here's a good toy!" Maybe try to play with the 'good' toy with him for minute. As you already know, being consistent and calm is the key--and realize it'll take time. It's a painful process (literally and figuratively), but you'll both make it through this and will be more bonded than ever. Deep breath... |
05-15-2016, 01:42 PM | #6 |
YT 2000 Club Donating Member | I do agree with YorkieMom1 My Yorkie came to me at 12wks old already used to a leash and walking. No overt biting behaviour. He was already toy focussed and had a great and healthy appetite. He was and is a joy to groom. Again thanks to his breeder. I had and have a selection of diffferent toys - hard soft quiet sound makers etc etc. Many dogs gravitate more to one kind of toy. All my dogs have liked the soft toys - but unfortunately those are rare treats as they decimate them oh somewhere around 2-3 hrs which needs to be constantly supervised as that stuffing is definiately not good for them. Also after a certain age they love the chew keyrings this is a toy with different sized key shapes on it - when teething I put it in the freezer and that works a lot. With our big breed we will place puppies between 7-8 wks old for some very important reasons having to do with owner bonding and owner training of a pup by then that weighs close to and sometimes over 20 lbs. But the owner will need to diligently work on bite inhibition. It is totally unacceptable for a large dog to bite unbidden. We have a variety of techniques to train with but all techniques require consistent application. I personally like the toy method - the tickle tongue as well. Training starts immediately. A working breed must learn how to work early on from the day you get them in fact. They learn to sit for their food - to leave it and drop it - at times you might need to make them stay at the bottom or top of the stairs while you proceed first. There is a good program which explains all this in detail - which is NILF nothing in life is free. You want to go out for a walk you sit quietly while I put on the leash - then you wait for me to exit the door first. You want to go swimming - we have obedience work first - swimming is your reward. And trust me having a frisky 80lb pup pulling to get to that water is and can be exhausting. A battle of wills at times. Sometimes your will must be like a rock and sometimes you need to be like water. It depends on the dog and situation. When I expose in gradiated increments a nervous dog to foreign places sights and sounds - I am very very calm. I have lots of treats with me and reward with voice and treats as each little hurdle is accomplished. I show no anger or surprise and definitely do not reward for the nervous behaviour. Instead I refocus the dog and sometimes I am fast enough to refocus the dog before the behaviour happens. Really the whole trick with training is for you to be calm and consistent and quite frankly adamant about the behaviours you do want.
__________________ Razzle and Dara. Our clan. RIP Karma Dec 24th 2004-July 14 2013 RIP Zoey Jun9 th 2008-May 12 2012. RIP Magic,Mar 26 2006July 1st 2018 |
05-15-2016, 05:07 PM | #7 |
Donating YT 3000 Club Member Join Date: Feb 2014 Location: E.Stroudsburg, Pa.
Posts: 67,956
| At 13 weeks old he is just a baby, you have been given excellent advise by all above members, I cannot add to it. I can say before YT educated ME all my past puppies were gotten at 8 weeks old my hands looked like they were attack by a viscous cat. Yorkies are hyper puppies that LOVE to play hard, lots of patience and consistency are the key words, hang in there, you WILL get through these puppy biting days, follow the excellent advise you have been given.
__________________ Joan, mom to Cody RIP Matese Schnae Kajon Kia forever in my A House Is Not A Home Without A Dog |
05-16-2016, 07:22 AM | #8 | |
Donating YT 1000 Club Member Join Date: Sep 2014 Location: Canada
Posts: 1,903
| Quote:
And likewise, I also experienced the difference between getting a puppy at a few weeks old (who bit me as a kid and my entire family - we had to rehome that puppy ), a puppy from the pet store (who was also a little difficult at first; again I was still a kid), and my current furbabies who came from a reputable breeder (who never ever ever bites or even nibble at me and will only lick to show affection). It's become a matter of fact which I experienced first-hand that puppies should stay with their momma for as long as the 12-15 weeks. Best wishes to you - make sure you get started on basic training. It's really the first step.
__________________ ~ laughter is an instant vacation ~ https://scottieandcasie.com/ :: Custom Pet Portrait Paintings Last edited by canana; 05-16-2016 at 07:23 AM. | |
05-17-2016, 09:07 AM | #9 |
YT 500 Club Member Join Date: May 2015 Location: Texas
Posts: 534
| Mario came to me as an adult dog. He bit while playing. It took me a bit over 2 months of consistent, loving, firm training to break him of the habit and he was an adult dog. A puppy will take longer. Keep at it and it will pay off in the long run.
__________________ Mario was adopted May 2015. Now he is a service dog and brother to Bailey the Airdale mix |
05-17-2016, 04:16 PM | #10 | |
Senior Yorkie Talker Join Date: Dec 2012 Location: New York, NY
Posts: 128
| You can also try spraying Grannick's Bitter Apple on your hand and surfaces where you do not want him to bite. Quote:
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05-18-2016, 05:38 PM | #11 | |
Yorkie Yakker Join Date: Feb 2016 Location: Nashville, TN,USA
Posts: 35
| Quote:
If I try to put anything on him - harness, leash, or take toys for play, I get a lot of hard nips that sometimes draw blood. We got him at 8 weeks of age. He seems to do better on somedays but I worry about when my mother watches him or taking him to the groomers with this behavior. | |
05-18-2016, 07:09 PM | #12 | |
Senior Yorkie Talker Join Date: Dec 2012 Location: New York, NY
Posts: 128
| It was recommended to us by our dog's breeder, as it is safe to use. It has a very bitter taste and should deter them from biting. However, some dogs do like the way it tastes. Our dog, thankfully, did not. The link is: http://www.bitterapple.com Quote:
Last edited by YorkieMomNYC; 05-18-2016 at 07:11 PM. | |
05-18-2016, 07:29 PM | #13 | |
Yorkie Yakker Join Date: Feb 2016 Location: Nashville, TN,USA
Posts: 35
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