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01-13-2006, 10:57 AM | #1 |
YorkieTalk Newbie! Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: New England
Posts: 7
| Help! I am having such a hard time potty training! Hello everyone. I have a seven month old female, Grace, who will pee and poop anywhere. (Everywhere except her crate ) I know she is still very young and it takes a while but she will even pee in front of me! When I take her out she does her business so it's not like she won't go outside, but she feels comfortable going inside too. I praise her like crazy when she goes outside, and try to startle her inside to stop, but she just doesn't seem to get it! I was thinking about a litter box or a pee pad, but then someone told me that once they start on that, they won't go outside at all!! What do I do?? I know you guys have so many great suggestions. Where would be a good place to put a litter box or pee pad? Do they have litter for dogs?! |
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01-13-2006, 11:18 AM | #2 |
YT 2000 Club Member Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Eastern PA
Posts: 2,484
| I keep pish pad by the back door for training and seriously inclement weather..mine will use that if they don't get out in time. here's the training method I use... House Training Step 1: On the first 2-3 days, take your puppy outside (preferably to the same spot) every hour and wait for him to relieve himself. Be boring and don't move just allow him the length of his 4.0 foot leash and don't walk him. As soon as he goes, praise, praise, praise while you give him a few pieces of his puppy food and pet him, hug him, kiss him, and award him with the "prize" of a walk up the street. After his walk, he gets supervised "free run" of the house for 20 minutes (this is a great time to play and/or train him). Then into the crate for the another 35 minutes. If you waited for more than 20 minutes and he still did NOT relieve himself, he goes directly into the crate for another 20 minutes or so, then straight outside again (this is not a punishment; simply a way of assuring that he won't let loose in the house.) Repeat as necessary until he goes. Make sure he goes out just before your bedtime. Then, do the same routine once or twice during the night without the "prize" walk or "running around the house" time. Yes, this will rob you of sleep. Rest assured that it will save you many more hours of sleep in the coming months, and entire days of aggravation in the coming years. Step 2: For the next week, take him out once every 90 minutes during the day and "as needed" in the middle of the night (he'll let you know). During the day, if he piddles outside, he gets supervised free run/play/train time for 30 minutes max. If he doesn't piddle, back into the crate. If he's had no accidents, add 15 minutes to each segment; in other words, he gradually gets more time in the crate and out of the crate. Accidents are common, however; simply backtrack a day by subtracting 15-30 minutes from each segment until he has mastered that length of time. Your mission at this stage of the game is to never give him; opportunity to fail, so ALWAYS supervise indoor activities. If you can't watch him like a hawk during his "free run" time, tie his leash to your belt loop so that you' be sure to catch him in the act, or better yet so that he learns to let you know he's got to go. Remember: Every time your puppy leaves his crate, immediately take him outside very quickly, before he has time to “go” inside. Don’t give him the opportunity to fail, and he won’t- and soon you won’t have to worry about it at all. Step 3: within about 7-10 days your puppy should understand pretty well what’s expected of him. Don't stop now, though. Continue to gradually add time to his supervised free run and crate time until he's successfully "holding it for 3 hours during free run time, and 4 daytime hours in the crate. If you catch him sniffing around suspiciously and squatting "in the act', shout "OUTSIDE OUTSIDE OUTSIDE " and take him outside immediately, and praise and treat him outside as he finishes up. It is imperative that you watch him like a hawk during his "free run" time, so that you can catch him "in the act' if he has a bit more to eliminate. If you can't watch him like a hawk, put his leash on him and tie the end of it to your wrist or belt loop. This way you can either catch him "in the act', or he'll hold it better, or he'll start to let you know he's got to go! Commonly Asked Questions Q. I work all day. How can I let my puppy Out every 2 hours for a week? A. Start on a weekend. That will give you 2 good days to get a head start. Then, seriously consider taking off a personal day or two for housetraining - it's worth it, believe us. Out of the question? Try to get home at least twice during the day, and/or have a friend or Pet sitter drop by a few times. One to two weeks of serious housetraining now will save you a lot of time and money later. Soon you'll have a fully housetrained puppy, and you won't have to worry about him while you're away. (Remember, do not crate your pup if someone can't let him out frequently during the first 7-10 days; use the puppy-proofed kitchen instead, described below, but keep the crate training going when you are home at night) Q. I'm away from home 9 hours a day, I can't take time off or afford a pet sitter, and none of my friends or family can help me out. Now what? A. Very frankly, you are asking for trouble in the form of an unhappy puppy with serious behavioral problems. You should seriously consider whether a puppy can really fit into your lifestyle and financial means. If , however this is a very short-term and temporary situation, and you can vigorously exercise and socialize your pup DAILY during your off-hours, here is your answer: Although difficult on you and your puppy, your mission is not impossible. Bear in mind that housetraining in this way will take longer, and your puppy will probably have more accidents. NEVER LEAVE A PUPPY IN A CRATE FOR THE ENTIRE DAY- he will soil it. Instead, give him a puppy-proofed area like the linoleum-floor kitchen. Make sure there's nothing he can reach or get into. Line the floor with newspaper for easy cleanup, leave the crate door open and line the crate with, blanket that smells like you, leave the radio on with calm music or a talk show, and give him plenty of durable chew-toys to occupy his time. During your off hours and weekends, do crate train him as directed here. It will take longer, but he still needs to learn how to hold his bladder and bowel. Q. Why is it important to housetrain my puppy so quickly? A. Every time your puppy soils inside your house, he learns "this floor is just as good a place to go as any," and the chances of him going there again will increase. The fewer accidents he has now, the quicker you'll have him housetrained. Q. What should I do If my puppy has an "accident? A. Close supervision is key during his free run time, so watch for his "signs" the he has to go (sniffing, panting, circling, staring at you or the door, whining). If you don't catch him "in the act", just clean it up with a non-ammonia cleanser and chalk it up to not being there in time. Your pup won't know what he did wrong, ! punishing him is not only a waste of time but confusing to him and completely ineffective (See Step 3 above.) Punishing a pup for an accident also teaches him to sneak off from you when he has to go he might even become too afraid of you to eliminate in front of you, even when you take him outside! If you do happen to catch him "in the act", shout "OUTSIDE OUTSIDE OUTSIDE'" and take him outside immediately, and praise and treat him outside as he finishes up. Remember: Punishing him is much less effective than simply showing him where you want him to go and properly teaching him how to "hold if'. Q. What If my puppy always soils the crate? A. Are you sure he wasn't in there for more than an hour or two? Do everything as instructed above, but instead of putting him in the crate, keep him on his leash which is tied to your belt loop (as in Step 3 above). When you have to leave the house, put him in your puppyproofed kitchen, expect a puddle or a pile when you return home, and DON'T punish him for it! CRATE DOS AND DON’TS DO purchase a crate which is only large enough for your pup to stand up, turn around and lie down in. . DO introduce your puppy to his crate gradually, with praise, toys and treats galore. DON'T slam the crate door and leave the room when first introducing him to his crate. DO feed your pup at set intervals during the day (rather than "free-feeding") and, take away the food bowl after 10 minutes if he doesn't finish it all. He'll need to go out about 20 minutes after eating. DO remove the water bottle at about 8pm each evening. This will help him "get through the night" DO put in a blanket or other bedding. DO feed your puppy in his kitchen crate. DON'T put your puppy into his crate in anger, or as a punishment. DO give him a good chew-toy or two when he's in his crate. DO keep in mind: .A new puppy needs to relieve himself several times during the day. In spite of his instinct not to soil his cozy crate, he will be forced by nature do so if you leave him in it for too long, until he gradually learns how to "hold it" DO leave the crate door open when he's out; he may just go in there on his own DO praise your puppy when he enters his crate. DO "ignore" your puppy when he leaves his crate. DO bring him outside immediately when he leaves his crate. DON'T leave him in his crate for longer than he can "hold if' (1 hour max. for very young pups, 3 hours for 3-4 months old, 4-5 hours for older pups and dog! DON'T give him attention for crying when he goes into his crate. Rather, give him a chew toy before he starts crying, and never open the crate door until he has been quiet for a few seconds. DON'T leave housetraining or crate training duties to children. Rather, involve them in the process by letting them help you. DON'T leave your puppy (or adult dog) in a crate all day, if he can hold it in the crate, he can hold it in the rest of the house. DO praise and treat your pup every time he urinates or defecates outside. DON'T use ammonia or any cleanser with ammonia in its ingredients to clean a pet accident (ammonia smells like urine to your pup and he'll be likely to go there again soon )
__________________ Stacy and the crew |
01-13-2006, 11:19 AM | #3 |
Senior Yorkie Talker Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Ohio
Posts: 84
| I am working on litter training my 5 mo.old male. You can get the pan and the litter at Petsmart.
__________________ Lindsey & Parker!!! Nothing is better than warm puppy kisses in the morning!!!! |
01-13-2006, 11:44 AM | #4 |
The Yorkie Sitter Donating Member Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Boston
Posts: 2,350
| Wow.. Stacy.. This is great! You should put that in your website... Very helpful.. I think I will come back here time to time to really learn good tips! Thank you for the post!
__________________ Michiko (Ethicist) and Haruka(Fragrance of Spring Flowers) [/URL][/COLOR] |
01-13-2006, 11:51 AM | #5 |
Yorkies Rock My World! Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: North Carolina
Posts: 4,721
| Nice job, Stacy! Admin should put this in "frequently asked questions"!! It sure IS!
__________________ Glad Mom to Jasper, Wosie & Dreama, RIP sweet babies. |
01-13-2006, 11:52 AM | #6 |
Yorkie Talker Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: California
Posts: 20
| I have a 7 month old too her name is princess. I also had a hard time at the begining. I started with the dogie pan with little obsorbent kibbles that did not work all she would do is eat them, I used the training sheets you can get them at PetSmart, they have worked for us. I dont like to take outside to poop or pipi I think it's to cold for her, anyway everytime she did her business were she is soposto I gave lots and lots of praise and also a treat she loved it. Now if she want to pipi or poop she directly goes to her training pads.
__________________ xxx Pretty Girl Princess |
01-13-2006, 12:36 PM | #7 | |
YT 2000 Club Member Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Eastern PA
Posts: 2,484
| Quote:
__________________ Stacy and the crew | |
01-14-2006, 07:11 AM | #8 |
YorkieTalk Newbie! Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: New England
Posts: 7
| Thank You! Wow Stacy, what great advise! I'll keep trying, I know she can do it! Thanks so much for the input. |
01-14-2006, 08:33 AM | #9 |
Yorkie Yakker Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: new jersey
Posts: 28
| It took us a very long time to train also. We started with outside training, it did not work so well and living where we do, it was cold. I then tried inside training with pee-pee pads and that has worked very well. She spent most of her time in the x-pen with her crate/bed, food and water and pee pad. It really didn't take long for her to get the hang of it. Keeping her inside has really worked out well for our family and our lifestyle. If we are out with her or traveling with her she will go outside. I read once about training them to go on command. When the dog is in the process of going, Say "go potty"(or any other word you choose). And after a while of saying this they will associate those words with the action. It is helpful when out and about with them. Needless to say treats and praise always work great. It does take time but just be patient.
__________________ Lauren and Ellie |
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