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If the breeder used washable, she might be confused.....just keep taking her back until she goes! It might take 1 time or it might take 10.....if she just got up she will need to go potty! I praise and then play! After a very active play time she will need to go again! |
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You've gotten a lot of advice here already and I know you can do this. Don't get angry or mad if she makes a mistake. Show it to her, take her to her pad and tell her "good potty". She will get it but it usually take a little while. Tethering her when she's out of her pen (with some free run time after she has potted) is the best you can do. Patience and be consistent doing it the same way every time and you will have a very well behaved puppy in the potty department!! |
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Free House Training for Puppies and Adult Dogs - No More Accidents Starting Today! Maybe that link will help. |
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The thing about potty training is it takes A LOT of time, A LOT of patience, and A LOT of persistence. You and Miley are learning how to do this together, so it can be a little frustrating. After her nap, put her on her pads (hopefully in her pen you have it pretty well covered in pads), tell her to "potty". She'll probably be trying to climb out, wagging her tail, whimpering what have you, but keep putting her on the pad and say "potty". It can take 2 minutes, or 10...but keep doing it till she goes. She will eventually go! Then take her out and love on her and play and praise and make it a happy fun awesome thing! |
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This is what I was going to suggest. You have to be persistant, consistant, and determined. I think this is the most difficult time for new owners with Yorkies, because they are very stubborn and they are just as determined to do it their way! You can not let her be loose and unsupervised, or even able to get far enough away from you where she can squat and pee BEFORE you can get to her and STOP it! That is where the tethering comes in....she is right there with you and she is not more than an arms reach away....if you see her exhibiting potty behavior, you must intervene...take her outside or put her on her pee pad. When you are not around, she has to be confined in a small area with pee pads down.....my babies are actually raised on pee pads....they are in the bottom of all pens and crates...they pee on pee pads because they have no choice....and then during week 12 I start cutting down on the size of the area covered with a pee pad....and from habit, they will go across the play pen and pee on the pee pad. Works great....I guess you could try that in her play pen, and then use the tethering method whenever she is out and about with you. BUT I AM NOT A TRAINER....I JUST DO WHAT WORKS FOR ME!!!! |
You say you work.....how long are you gone? Is it possible to have someone come in during the day and play and potty her a few times. It will probably take longer to train if she is left to her own! :( |
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Confinement is not so the dog can "go" while confined, it's to encourage them to learn to hold their pee/poo. After a period of confinement I would first thing take my dog outside to potty, as the dog had usually held his pee/poo while confined and needed to go. With yours, you'll need to take her to the area where there are potty pads out in the room and teach her to go there and not allow her to leave that area until she does potty on those pads, then praise/treat and celebrate the "go" on the pads. Once she's done both her businesses on the pads, now she is free to run about and play and eat, drink and do whatever, with you still keeping an eye on her in case she has any further urges or didn't both pee and potty on the pads once out of confinement. You will repeat the confinement for short periods and then taking her out of confinement and to the pads placed in the room to encourage her to use them and then praise/treat, allow some freedom for play and general living, training in obedience, eating/drinking, etc. Back to the pads a few minutes after eating/drinking for her to go again if need be, praise/treat and then back to short confinement to teach her to hold herself until she is free again. Later, when she's used to only using that area with the potty pads and will want to get to that area to go, you won't have to restrict her as much to just that area. You can allow her out in the room and other parts of the house but watching her all the while she's out and about for evidence of staring, sniffing or excitement prior to needing to "go" potty. If you see that activity, get her and place her on the pads if she doesn't head over to them on her on. Eventually she will begin to go to the pads on her own and that's when you know you are getting through to her. But at first, after confinement, you must place your dog in the place you want to to go potty. If she doesn't, you can either re-confine for another 15 minutes, then take her out and put her back on the potty pads and if she still doesn't go, confine for another 15 and so forth until she does. Confining a dog just usually helps them learn to hold their urine/feces until they get a chance to go potty in their usual spot, where you put them when removed from confinement. Of course you do cover the surface of the confinement area during training to prevent soiling that area if she can't hold it while still confined. It sends a bit of a mixed message to them, it is true. Some will soil the area they are confined to if the pads cover the whole bottom of it but eventually they get the message not to go where they sleep and relax and to hold it for when removed and taken to their usual potty spot. |
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