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Old 11-16-2011, 09:35 AM   #16
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I think many Yorkies are a little shy about being picked up or touched under some circumstances. I know Tibbe is a little particular about his little person and if is not ready to be picked up, he will wiggle away and snort and snort! If he wants to, he will lean into the pickup and "help". But that is just a Yorkie - they are so picky about just everything!
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Old 11-16-2011, 12:41 PM   #17
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My little girl is this way too, she doesn't even like being picked up to be put on the couch, she cant jump up there yet, so she just tries, and then runs back if you try to pick her up to help her up. She loves playing with me, butt as far as showing any other affection, (besides nipping, though I'm not sure if that is affection) she doesn't unless she's scared and tries hiding behind my legs. So I am hoping she goes through the "U-turn" as well.
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Old 11-16-2011, 12:53 PM   #18
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Yes I have this experience but with rescue dogs/puppy.

Give it time, but this may be your pups persona.

I'm concerned about the cost of your behaviorist rough. Most are $40 an hour or session $65 for those with an established career but it can be $120 for a session schedule and follow up unlimited support. Extra fees for more time. <<In my area consistent with the economy here, though higher in the cities.

Can I asked what you paid?
Was it by the hour, session what did it include?
Behavorist to me are invaluable.
Worth every penny what they do in a few hours lasts your dog's lifetime. However some (especially uncertified) posers charge exorbitant amounts & are full of well you can guess-check their references.
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Old 11-16-2011, 01:34 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by concretegurl View Post
Yes I have this experience but with rescue dogs/puppy.

Give it time, but this may be your pups persona.

I'm concerned about the cost of your behaviorist rough. Most are $40 an hour or session $65 for those with an established career but it can be $120 for a session schedule and follow up unlimited support. Extra fees for more time. <<In my area consistent with the economy here, though higher in the cities.

Can I asked what you paid?
Was it by the hour, session what did it include?
Behavorist to me are invaluable.
Worth every penny what they do in a few hours lasts your dog's lifetime. However some (especially uncertified) posers charge exorbitant amounts & are full of well you can guess-check their references.
The one we had cost us £300 and we had to sign a one year contract.

She was with us exactly two hours and told us only that which we knew already.

1. Your puppy is extremely timid.

2. If you work with him he may or may not respond.

3. Let him come to you don't force him.

We knew all this we have had dogs all our lives what we were looking for was help in bringing our little man through the "U" turn.

I really was expecting her to say I will be back in "X" amount of weeks to see how he is getting on.
No such luck she just said if you need support just call us.

This was a lady highly recommended and from a company called "Bark Busters.

As she sat observing the two youngest went into their crate and went to sleep.
The lady said well that's it you wont get them to come out now as little shy boy will stay in his crate where he feels secure.

I just gave a whistle and he shot out of the crate looking for his treat but would not come over to me.

I have no faith left for Behaviourists I feel totally let down and disappointed and will never ever employ another.

I would have been absolutely happy if she had said she will come again but no such luck.
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Old 11-16-2011, 01:48 PM   #20
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I didn't know timid yorkies were so common. Kaji is timid, and does not like to be touched by other people. He's the biggest cuddle bug, but even he has his moments. When I get home from work, he puts his paws up as if he wants to be picked up. As soon as I have him securely in my arms, he's wiggling to get back down. I've learned he just wants me to chase him around the house until he settles down. Silly pup! He does eventually calm down and curls up in my lap for cuddles and kisses.
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Old 11-16-2011, 02:46 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bWY39 View Post
The one we had cost us £300 and we had to sign a one year contract.

She was with us exactly two hours and told us only that which we knew already.

1. Your puppy is extremely timid.

2. If you work with him he may or may not respond.

3. Let him come to you don't force him.

We knew all this we have had dogs all our lives what we were looking for was help in bringing our little man through the "U" turn.

I really was expecting her to say I will be back in "X" amount of weeks to see how he is getting on.
No such luck she just said if you need support just call us.

This was a lady highly recommended and from a company called "Bark Busters.

As she sat observing the two youngest went into their crate and went to sleep.
The lady said well that's it you wont get them to come out now as little shy boy will stay in his crate where he feels secure.

I just gave a whistle and he shot out of the crate looking for his treat but would not come over to me.

I have no faith left for Behaviourists I feel totally let down and disappointed and will never ever employ another.

I would have been absolutely happy if she had said she will come again but no such luck.
I failed to see your location-for a typical contract that's not bad in price, but IMHO with the service you are describing you are getting shafted!

Behaviorist are not dog trainers but they are not limited to evaluation and a 'state of the dog' unless that's the specified agreement.

In most cases and my experience they are supposed to go farther and either direct you to a trainer giving you something to take to the trainer (their findings) to aid in how to train this specific dog and /or give you a to-do list of exercises.

Nevertheless they should be doing a follow up to check progress.

What's listed as the service agreement in the contract?

Is there a stipulation specified it's documented as legitimate by a solicitor? -I've a brief understanding of English basic contract law, so don't quote me unless you don't mind looking foolish a bit.

IMHO she sounds like someone how do you say who 'can't be asked' to do her job to the fullest.
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Old 11-16-2011, 05:39 PM   #22
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Bonding, You and your Yorkie
Although it is recommend to place Yorkie pups at 12 weeks, many who study canine behavior, belive there is a critical bonding period that happens between the 6th and 8th week. Puppies learn many valuable lessons about how to interact with dogs, bite inhibition, and even keeping the nest clean, which helps with future potty training. It is very important to have a breeder who knows this and prepares the puppies for human bonding by sending time with each puppy away from the mother and litter.
If you have other dogs it is natural for the puppy to look to them for protection, leadership, and provisions (like where the food, water, bed and so on is) Puppies need one on one bonding with their human. People that have created a system of training service dogs for the blind, know all about this and begin touching, socializing, and teaching pups very early, that humans are the PLP. Protector, Leader and Provider of all resources, even before their eyes are open.
Most puppies who are placed after 12 weeks age, eventually learn to trust their human as the Provider of food but, sometimes never fully accept them as their leader and protector.
Trainers see cases everyday where the dog thinks he/ she is is equal to their people. Dogs with mixed identity roles, will some time guard their food, toys, bed, and even their people. They don't want other dogs or people sleeping with, sitting on, or touching their person. The dog thinks it is the PLP ! What a burden for the little guy. Sadly this sometimes leads to Small Dog Syndrome. Excessive barking, nipping, urine marking and even aggression.
Ideally when people bring home a puppy they would have at least 4 weeks to spend at home bonding and training their new family member. Of course that is rarely the situation. So we use several exercises we do encourage bonding, you might try them.
1. Umbilical Tethering
Is a fancy term for keeping your dog on a leash when he is not in his crate or gated safe play area. Use a regular soft cloth leash attached to his harness and the other end attached to you. Every where you go, he goes. Let him walk , people carry puppies far too much. Walking teaches him to follow. At first he will not be happy about this, but in a few days it will become routine. (this the scary part, with a puppy you have 4 magical weeks where everything you teach him, helps form his adult personality. From 12 to 16 weeks) Some people give up right here. They think 4 weeks of dragging a dog around, nope not for me. If they only understood 4 weeks training will last the dogs whole life, it is an excellent foundation. When you walk just cue with Let's Go and start walking. I won't take long for your puppy to learn to watch you the PLP and follow your lead. Training is much easier because he is right there with you, not wondering off to potty on the carpet, chewing the cord on the lamp, barking out of boredom etc. UT also teaches a pup he is safe he does not have to stay just out of reach. Teach all your basic training cues, his name Come, Sit, (lay) Down, Potty, Bark, Enough(barking), Good Quiet, Kisses, No, (get) OFF and Treats. Use the cue words during this four weeks while doing your ordinary daily things. Everyone in the family should use the same cue words.
A good book to read is Dog Perfect by Sarah Hodgson

2. FEED ME do this when your dog is hungry.
Spread something yummy on the back of your hand just a small amount( like peanut butter, low fat cream cheese, honey, canned dog food etc) and a real meat treat( like a tiny piece of boiled chicken etc.) in your palm. Close your hand. Call your dog give the cue, His name - Come (If your dog does not come EVERY TIME when called, make sure he is on a leash for this, if you have too gently reel him to you. You should be sitting low.) Cue with the word TREAT and pretend to lick the back of your hand and then put it down in his reach. When he sniffs, be very still and quiet. As soon as he begins to lick, cue with KISSES GOOD KISSES. Slowly roll your hand over and say TREAT and let him get the goody. Use your release word cue OK, so he will know the lesson is over. Do this several times a day for 3 days. On Day four gently stroke him with your other hand on the side by his ribs NOT ON TOP of his back or head, when he is licking. Do not pick him up. This lesson teaches him that food really comes from your hand. At some point he will probably begin to climb on to your lap especially if you are sitting low enough. Calmly stroke his side. Practice calling your dog 5 or 6 times every day. NEVER CALL YOUR DOG for any thing bad or punishment. No matter what always reward with praise, pets or treats when your dog comes. At first only call him when he is on a leash or long training tether.
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Old 11-17-2011, 03:26 AM   #23
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Dex was like this When I first got him too. He wouldn't let me hold him much or if I tried to kiss on him he freaked out!! Now at almost 10 months old he is better about it and will come over on his own and give me kisses; it just takes time! Goodluck !
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Old 11-18-2011, 10:34 AM   #24
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Any updates ?
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Old 11-18-2011, 01:52 PM   #25
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Don't worry about it, but do keep offering him cuddles. Dinky is 20 months, now; and he has only really curled up on our laps for the last couple of months. He does like to sleep with us, and he loves being held, but I never really considered him the "cuddle bug" type, until recently. His personality changes as he matures. He used to love to walk, now I've noticed that he has figured out that being carried by dad while snuggled in dad's shirt is preferable.
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Old 11-27-2011, 07:59 AM   #26
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Update

Robbie continues to play the shy boy in that he still refuses to take a treat from the hand but we are making painfully slow progress with the cuddles.
He will now allow us to sit him on our knee for a very short time only but if you attempt to cuddle him he is away to hide in his crate.

We feel we are making progress and will continue to help him as much as we can but he is one happy little puppy who plays really rough with the big ones and can give as much as he gets.

We love him so much just as much as we love the other three.
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Old 11-27-2011, 12:17 PM   #27
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Try a lazer pointer.

Get everyone else to sit around, get him so into chasing the dot he forgets he has just ran across someones legs.

Do it slow, inhibit him.
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Old 11-27-2011, 04:43 PM   #28
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Toby does the same thing. He's a very sweet boy but does not liked to be picked up. If he wants love he will come to you but if it's not on his agenda...forget about it.
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Old 11-27-2011, 04:47 PM   #29
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Quote:
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Try a lazer pointer.

Get everyone else to sit around, get him so into chasing the dot he forgets he has just ran across someones legs.

Do it slow, inhibit him.
No offense meant to this poster, but laser pointers are not a good thing to use with dogs. They can become obsessed with them in some cases needing therapy.
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Old 11-27-2011, 05:55 PM   #30
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Quote:
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No offense meant to this poster, but laser pointers are not a good thing to use with dogs. They can become obsessed with them in some cases needing therapy.
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