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Shes ready!! Ok so we have a 11 month old yorkie, Ashley, shes finally in heat. We also have a year old yorkie, Skeeter. Ive heard that she bleeds for 10 days and then for 10 days after that she can get pregnant. Is that true, and is there anything we need to do for her? Thanks.. Samantha:thumbup: :thumbup: :aimeeyork |
I know nothing about breeding but I thought I had read to let "mate" during the second heat and at the first heat they are still to young and growing. |
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breeding Yes, there is something you need to do..wait until her second cycle. She is too young. Take the next 6 to 8 months to learn all you can about breeding and prepare, so you will not let your bitch/litter down iwth inexperince or an emergancy. Best wishes |
Well our pups are really close, they cant be away from each other, so should we keep her in the kennel for the next few days, or what? |
Don't even consider breeding on the first heat. Also have you done any research at all about breeding? Three and a half million unwanted dogs are put to death in this country every year, with millions more dying through starvation, disease, accidents, and abuse. Nearly a quarter of these victims are purebred dogs. It is important to learn the facts and possible consequences if you are considering breeding your dog. In today's overcrowded world, we must make responsible decisions for our pets and for ourselves. Consider the following points carefully. Quality - AKC or U.K.C. registration is not an indication of quality. Most dogs, even purebred animals with papers, should not be bred. Many wonderful pets have defects of structure, personality, or health. Animals should be proven free of these defects and only exceptional individuals should be used in an honest attempt to improve the breed. Ignorance is no excuse-once you have created a life, you are responsible for it, even if the pup is blind, crippled, epileptic, or a psychopath. Cost - Breeding dogs is not a money-making proposition if done correctly. High prices are justified only by long showing records and excellent stock. Diagnosis of problems, proof of quality, adequate facilities, stud fees, and advertising are costly and must be paid before the pups can be sold. A pregnant or lactating female will increase her food requirements two- or three-fold and require regular veterinary attention. The pups will also require special foods, as well as inoculations and worming. An unexpected cesarean, emergency intensive care for a sick pup, or other complications will make a break-even litter a liability. Sales - Placing puppies is not easy. There are not enough good homes to go around. Previous promises of "I want a dog just like yours" evaporate. It is unlikely that breeding your pet will produce a pup "just like her" (you would be more likely to get a similar dog by going back to the original breeder). Consider the time and expense of caring for pups that may not sell for many months, if at all. What would you do with your pups that did not sell? Would you be prepared to take back a dog if the owners can no longer care for it? Education - Sex education for children is not a responsible reason for breeding your pet. The female dog is entitled to her privacy while giving birth, and if there are complications, children will be in the way. Witnessing delivery problems, or the death of the mother or pups, would be upsetting. Pups can be born with deformities and may need to be euthanized. Some dogs are not natural mothers and may ignore or attack their pups. Even a normal birth can be accompanied by the female screaming or attempting to bite, and is a messy process. Look at the long range effect; although you are exposing the children to the mechanics of birth, what are they learning about respect for the quality of life? |
Risks - In addition to the risks associated with delivery, motherhood puts considerable physical stress on the female. Minerals, fats, and proteins are taken from her body, often resulting in weight loss, loss of coat, and other debilitating effects. Unneutered male dogs face a greater risk of accidents, infections, physical stress, and wounds from fighting than neutered male dogs. Time - Before breeding your dog, many hours will be spent working on pedigrees, locating a mate, doing paperwork, and interviewing potential buyers. Veteran breeders of quality dogs spend more than two hours daily raising a litter. The mother should be attended to during delivery; even after delivery, she will need extra care. The puppies will need daily checking, weighing, and socialization. They will also require grooming and training. The whelping box will need frequent cleaning. Be prepared for days off work and sleepless nights. If there are abnormal conditions, such as sick puppies or a mother who doesn't care for her pups, count on double the time. Guidelines For Breeding Your Dog Most responsible breeders begin planning 1-2 years in advance. The primary goal of breeding should be to improve the breed. Typically you will not make money, you may even lose money. The following symbols are used to indicate expenses and income: [-$] cost <$100; [-$$] cost >$100; [+$$] income of >$100. 1 - Learn more about your breed and breeding dogs. Talk to experienced breeders, attend shows, join your breed club, and read about dog breeding. We recommend the following books: Holst, Phyllis A. 1985. Canine Reproduction: A Breeder's Guide. Alpine Publications, Loveland, CO. 223 pp. Seranne, Ann. 1980. The Joy of Breeding Your Own Show Dog. Howell Division of Macmillan Publishing Co., New York, NY. 272 pp. 2 - Determine that your bitch is of high quality. Minimally she should: - have at least a 3 (preferably 4 or 5) generation pedigree. - come from a line having at least 4 titled dogs in the last 3 generations. - be appropriately registered with AKC, UKC, or the parent club. - fit the breed standard. - be free of genetic defects. - have a good temperament. - be capable of performing the task(s) for which the breed was developed. - be in excellent health. 3 - Ensure that your bitch is an appropriate age to be bred. Bitches must be full grown and old enough to be screened for genetic defects. Bitches who are too old may have difficulty whelping or producing milk. 4 Have your bitch screened by your veterinarian for genetic defects, particularly those common to the breed. Some tests or evaluations must be done by specialists. [-$$] 5 - Determine when your bitch is likely to be in season. Planning, breeding, whelping, and raising a litter take a lot of time. Be certain that your schedule will allow you to devote the necessary time and effort to care for the pregnant bitch and the puppies when they arrive. |
6 - Decide whether you will linebreed (breed to a close relative) or outcross (breed to an individual that is not a close relative). In general, linebreeding produces more uniform litters, but undetected harmful traits are more likely to appear along with good traits. Outcrossing produces more variable litters, but harmful traits are less likely to appear. 7 - Find a good stud that meets all the criteria for quality that your bitch did. All dogs have faults and the stud should be selected to complement the bitch; they should not have the same faults. Selecting a suitable mate takes time; don't wait until the female is in season. Go to local shows, consult breeders, and attend the breed's National Specialty Show to find the best stud. 8 - Find out what the stud fee will be, whether you will be required to sign a contract, and what conditions are contained in the contract. In general, contracts are used to specify terms and protect both owners. [-$$] 9 - Line up buyers for the puppies as far in advance as possible. Buyers can be found by contacting other breeders and your local kennel club to solicit referrals and by advertising in breed publications. Advertising in local newspapers is not generally a good idea. Many experienced breeders will not breed their dogs until they have buyers for at least half the litter. [-$] 10 - Screen potential buyers (be prepared to turn away irresponsible owners): - how knowledgeable are they about dogs? - how familiar are they with your breed and why did they choose it? - are they motivated to learn more? - have they owned a dog before? when? - have they ever given a dog up? why? how? -at what ages and why did their previous dogs die? -how many people are in the family and what are their ages? -do they have other pets? -do they have a fenced yard? -will the dog live in the house or in the yard? -do they live in the city or country? -will they spend the time and money it takes to own and train a dog? 11 - Draw up an Agreement to Purchase contract if puppies are reserved, and have the buyer sign it. Decide whether to require a deposit. 12 - Plan how you will get the bitch to the stud. If the stud is not nearby, prepare to drive or make airline arrangements. You will need a shipping crate that meets airline specifications. [-$$] |
13 - Take the bitch to her veterinarian for a checkup. Unless your dog was vaccinated very recently, she will need booster shots to protect her pups. [-$] 14 - Consider scheduling veterinary tests such as vaginal smears and progesterone assays to determine when breeding should be attempted. [-$] 15 - Attempt to breed the dogs. If they are incompatible, artificial insemination may be necessary. Breeding must be supervised to prevent injuries. [-$] 16 - Drive to pick up your bitch (if she is stressed by flying) to minimize the chance of abortion or resorption. [-$] 17 - Have your veterinarian determine whether the bitch is pregnant a month after breeding, if you want to be certain that she conceived. [-$] 18 - Get ready for pups: - buy or build a whelping box; put it in a warm, quiet, and secluded place that is easily accessible. [-$] - have special food to feed the bitch during the final stages of pregnancy and while she is nursing pups. [-$] - have milk replacer on hand. [-$] - learn what to expect with normal and abnormal births. - have the equipment that you will need if there are complications. [-$] - be prepared to assist the birth and cleaning of the pups if necessary. - be prepared to get veterinary assistance if necessary. - read about raising pups. We recommend: The Monks of New Skete. 1991. The Art of Raising a Puppy. Little, Brown and Company,Boston, MA. 274 pp. [-$] 19 - Attend the bitch while she is whelping. You may want to record the number of placentas passed, the birth order, and the times of the births. 20 - Take the bitch to the veterinarian for a checkup the day after the pups are born. She may also need a "clean-out" shot of oxytocin if she didn't pass all the placentas, or if she isn't producing enough milk. [-$] |
21 - Take the puppies to the veterinarian when they are about 2 days old, if you are going to have their dewclaws removed. [-$] 22 - Keep track of the pups' weights to make sure they are gaining. This indicates that the bitch is producing enough milk and that the pups are healthy and suckling well. Use differently colored collars on nearly identical pups. They must be distinguishable for registration purposes. 23 - Begin feeding the pups solid food at about 3 weeks of age. They will require special puppy food. They should not be completely weaned until they are about 6 weeks old. [-$] 24 -Schedule appointments for worming and immunizations at intervals determined by your veterinarian. [-$] 25 - Socialize your pups. They should be handled gently by you from birth. When they are 5 weeks old, begin nonstressful socialization with other people and introducing the pups to a variety of objects. The pups are susceptible to diseases until they have had their third set of shots at 3 months of age. Don't expose the pups to other dogs before then. After that time, take them everywhere; introduce them to other animals and new situations. Puppy kindergarten is highly recommended. 26 - Arrange for temperament testing for each puppy at 7 weeks of age. We recommend the Puppy Aptitude Test by Joachim and Wendy Volhard (from the March, 1979, issue of the AKC Gazette; reprinted in The Art of Raising a Puppy, see above). 27 - Register the litter with the AKC, U.K.C., or the parent club (if your dog is a rare breed). [-$] 28 - Obtain (or prepare yourself) a 3-5 generation pedigree. [-$] 29 - Evaluate the puppies to decide which are show quality and which are pet quality; you may want to ask other breeders for their help. Decide on the purchase price of each puppy. |
30 - Draw up a Sale Agreement to be signed when the buyer takes the puppy. Talk to other breeders to find out what is customary. A clause agreeing to take the puppy back within a specific amount of time with a refund of the purchase price is typically included. Responsible breeders usually stipulate that they have first option to take the dog back (without a refund) if it must be given up at any age, or that they must be consulted about its placement. This is done to prevent the dog from going to an animal shelter, a bad home, or a puppy mill. Contracts for pet-quality pups should include a spay/neuter clause. You should consider limited registrations for pet-quality pups. 31 - Make arrangements to ship the pup to the buyer if necessary. You will need a shipping crate that meets airline specifications. Pups should be at least 7 weeks old before being taken from their mother and litter mates. [-$$] 32 - Give the buyer: - a copy of the signed sale contract in exchange for payment. [+$$] -a copy of the litter registration and of the pup's pedigree. -the pup's health records and a schedule for future vaccinations. -a collar with the pup's ID tag. [-$] -bedding or a toy the pup is familiar with. [-$] -information about the breed and breed club. -information about individual registration of the pup. 33 - Suggest that the buyer have: - a leash. - a crate and information on crate-training. - the brand of puppy food the puppy is used to. - bowls for food and water. - grooming tools. - books on raising puppies and on the pup's breed. - information about house-training and supplies for cleaning up accidents. 34 - Be prepared to answer the buyer's questions about the dog for the rest of its life. 35 - Decide what to do with puppies that you might not place and would have to keep for an extended period-perhaps for the life of the dog. Having healthy puppies put to sleep, or taking pups to the pound are not responsible solutions. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- |
I agree with Yorkiedaze 100% heed her advice! There are so many breeders out there and so many unwanted dogs, why not have your little ones fixed so they can enjoy their lives together and will be healthier in the long run! I would absolutely keep your little one crated or away from your other dog while she is in heat. You can also buy some little panties or diapers for her to wear so she will be comfortable in her settings and not be bleeding everywhere...I beg of you to please reconsider breeding your little girl, there are so many risks involved even for someone who is a profesional and knows exactly what they are doing...think of how many more risks you are putting on her if you allow this to happen now. |
Well just for the record we ARE breeding her, maybe not this time but the next time. We love our pups very much, and would do nothing to purposly hurt them. We will keep her crated for now. Our only problem is they sleep in the same kennel at night. We have a big kennel and a little kennel, does it matter which one she is put it. Also is there anything we can do about them whining at night now that their not going to sleep together? |
breeding I couldn't even imagine breeding my little one at 11 months and her first heat, I am so glad I had her spayed I think there are to many people breeding for the wrong reasons, breeding should defintly be left to the experts. |
breeding They need to be kept apart for 3 full weeks...but I have a gut feeling you will have an accident and a litter far too soon for your bitch. |
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good luck and I do hope you waite till next time. :) |
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I wish you and your pup the best of luck and trust that after taking some time to learn a few things you will do what you feel is in her best interest. You seem to love her very much so I trust you will care for her health first and foremost. |
In my opinion you don't seem educated enough to be breeding just yet. Just the fact that you didn't even know that you should not breed the first heat, which is a cardinal rule of breeding shows your lack of knowledge on this subject. I know that you "love your dogs", but that isn't a good enough reason to breed, and I really don't think you're prepared whatsoever for what goes along w/it. Yorkiedaze's post was VERY informative and you didn't even comment on it. Anyhow, I'm hoping you'll reconsider and take time to re evaluate breeding until you know more about it. |
I am no breeder nor can offer any advice other than say good luck and 'hope' you are prepared. I would follow Yorkierose's and Yorkiedaze's advice........ BUT. I too, get the impression it's going in one ear and out the other... I truly wish you lots of luck :) |
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i totally agree. i have studied breeding for two years before attempting it. and believe me, i felt i still did not know enough. do you know what to do when they tie? if the bitch is upset and crying, what to do during the tie? signs of problems in labor? these are just a tiny bit of the numerous amount of information you will need to know. we have seen too many people here on yt loose the mother or the babies b/c they didn't know the signs. please learn all you can. best thing thing to do is get a mentor. all the reading in the world cannot prepare you for the whelping. |
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Shes going to breed her dog no matter what anyone says. Its amazing how many people breed with no knowledge of breeding whatsoever. I have a feeling we will be seeing a post soon. My dog is pregnant and due tomorrow what do I do? Why do people wait until the very last minute to do their research? These things should be researched extensively BEFORE one breeds. You dont come to a fourm when your dog is in season and ask questions then. You are not going to learn all the important stuff just days before you decide to breed your dog. I wish people would stop and consider their dogs before they consider making puppies. Do you seriously want to put your dog at any kind of risk just to make some cute puppies? YOUR BITCH CAN DIE IF YOU DONT KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING! |
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As Yorkie Rose says, the bitch is going to end up pregnant this time around.....Why she would put her dog in that kind of agony in the same room.... I know what it's like around here when one of my girls is in Season. My boys are bonkers.....off food, not sleeping, they only have one thing on their mind. I completely seperate them in seperate rooms and crates....\ Amazing: She's heard that they bleed for 10 days........ |
Sorry, but I have to agree with what everyone else is saying. I breed my Germ. Shep. but waited until she was 2 years old. I wanted her to be completely done growing/maturing. My stud was three by then. I still breed her every other heat cycle. She took this past year off though, so I will be looking for her summer heat cycle and breed her one more time. The stud no longer lives with us though. |
Just found a few of your posts that were interesting... "She's Peggy Sorenson from Verdin, Illinois, we just bought a 6 week old Yorkie from her today, but I'm not sure if shes completely healthy. Has anyone heard of her?" your first one you were talking about your little girl and apparantly you bought her when she was 6 weeks old? I don't know ANY reputable breeder that will sell a pup at 6 weeks so your little girl is probably from backyard breeder or a puppy mill and will most likely have all kinds of problems. People that let their pups go at that age are just looking for money and not for quality so I would not be suprised if your girl has numerous health problems and by breeding her you are just going to cause other pups to have numerous health problems and possibly kill both your mother and your pups. Secondly... "We have two yorkies and the female is younger (5months) than the male(6months), but a little bigger. We feed them in the same bowl but she seems to eat all the food while he sits and watches her, we do feed him seperatly afterward but what can we do about this we would like them to be able to share the same bowl at the same time." You stated that your male is older and bigger than your female. I'm not even a breeder and I know that the male is suppose to be a good bit smaller than the female. If you breed close in size you risk the chance of the mother needing a c-section or even dying because the pups are too big for her to give birth to. If you breed with one that is BIGGER than your female the chances that your little girl will have problems are extremely high! I really doubt your going to listen to any of the advice given to you, bu wanted to state those two things so that when you do breed and have a whole mess of problems and who knows what else.... You can't say, well, I didn't know any better, because from everything everyone has said on here, you do know better. The choice now lies in your hands, to decide whether you really do love your dogs or whether you are looking to make a quick buck. If you choose the latter keep in mind, if things go wrong, not only will you not make a quick buck, you'll probably be in a crazy amount of debt...vet bills are not cheap. |
I am not a breeder and have little to no knowledge about it. But I would say people are here to get advice not have past posts thrown in their face! Giving her knowledge as to why she shouldnt breed is the right thing to do. Lecture her and make her feel unwelcome is wrong! Nobody on here HAD ALL THE ANSWERS when they first got their yorkie.... Dont get me wrong she sounds inexperienced but getting harsh with her is RUDE and for a place to come and get help you pretty much told her dont ask for it because she didnt know an answer to one question..... No wonder when I sit and read this forum you see the same old people....Because u attack everyone else! |
I wasn't trying to attack her at all, she stared out this posting looking for information and I had not met her before so I didn't have a clue about her baby that she wanted to breed. I was actually looking through her old post to see if I could figure out her girls weight in hopes to give her some facts about breeding certain weights. If you read my previous post on this thread I certainly did not try to lecture her, only to educate her with what little I know. I'm not a breeder but have read a lot about yorkies and only wish her the best for her little one. I certainly didn't have all the answers when I first got my yorkie but I read and researched about 6 months before I got mine learning all that I could, and that was just to be an owner not to breed. I've never attacked anyone on this thread, I've even stood up for people several times who have been attacked because I don't think that is how you should deal with people. If my post to her came off angry or harsh or like a "lecture" I apologize. It certainly was not meant that way. I was only meaning to inform and hopefully help her better understand the dangers of breeding her little girl. In the end it is her decision and she has the right to do whatever she wants to do and I completley respect that. But, I would hate for her to breed her little girl, to young, and to a bigger male, and not know the health history and then end up with so many problems. A friend of mine decided against everyones advice to breed to early and ended up killing her bitch. Perhaps that is why I am sensitive on this issue, I hate to see animals die because of someones mistake... Again, I apologize if anything from my post was taken with offense, I meant no harm by it, was only trying to be helpful and bring up a few facts that may cause her some problems if she does decide to breed. |
I don't see anyone's post as an attack. I think her previous posts were brought up just to illustrate why she shouldn't be breeding. It doesn't seem anyway that she took the advice to heart.. and that her mind was already made up to breed regardless of the opinions and wisdom of others. |
Thank You Yorkiedaze!! Thank you for posting your 35 steps to preparation! Those posts should be made into a sticky and kept for posterity. I appreciate the time and consideration you put into those posts. I know I will be keeping them. Thanks again for passing on your knowledge and experience! :thumbs up |
Story of Warning!!! You must be very, very, very careful when she is in heat! This happened to me about 15 yrs. ago, and I have learned alot since ::eek: :eek: My AKC Chi came into heat when she was almost a yr. I allowed her to go in the back yard with our female Bull Terrier, who had been fixed before we got her ...so I had no experience with dogs in heat. She was wearing panties. I left them alone for no more than 5 min when I heard a terrible ruckus. I ran outside to find our Lab hurt and bleeding. The mutt next door, (gee, we had lived there for 5 yrs and I had never even heard this dog bark ... didnt even know it was there) had knocked down the redwood fence to get at her. It had mauled our BT, who was trying to protect the little Chi. And of course, by the time I got to her ... my little Chi was hung-up with that mutt. There was nothing I could do, it happened so fast. You cannot leave her unsupervised for 1 second unless she is locked in a kennel, seriously. Had to take the BT the vet for stitches ... $$$ Then had to wait a few a weeks to see if she was pregnant .... Of course, she was. Vet heavily suggested a doogie abortion ... said the other dog was too big. She would probably die from complications. So we did it, and with all the trauma went ahead and her fixed... $$$. It was much harder on her than just getting her fixed from the begining. The whole experience was very traumtic - and expensive, not to mention the cost of fixing the fence ...$$$, and fighting with the neighbors continued for years. You have to be completely diligent ... they will find a way to get together. You cannot be too careful.:eek: :eek: |
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