Perfect age puppy
 

I saw on a breeder's website that a yorkie shouldn't be purchased before they are 3 months old because that is when they have the most health problems. Are there any other reasons to not purchase a yorkie who isn't 3 months of age and does this rule only go for toy breeds?

I don't know about all toy breeeds, but as far as Yorkies go my YTCA member/ show breeder says that you can't truly evaluate a puppy until its 12 weeks. I have also read the same in several breed specific books... the crucial elements of the standard come together at this time as well as 12 weeks being the age when you can estimate the size of the adult dog.

So then is it really for the benefit of those that want to show to wait until they are 12 weeks?

No... what I posted is regarding the breed, not just show dogs. Yorkies in general. A responsible breeder wouldnt place a dog in a home until it is 12 weeks.i picked my puppy out at 8 weeks, but wasnt able to bring it home until it was 12 weeks.
From reading your post, I thought you were asking other reasons why you wouldnt want to adopt a puppy under 12 weeks. I',m sorry if I misread your questions. As far as what I posted... I was simply stating my breeder's credentials bc she has been mentored by some very knowledgeable breeders and has been breeding and showing for quite some time... That way you knew that what I was posting wasnt just my opinion. It is the opinion of someone that has extensive LIFE EXPERIENCE with breeding. There are quite a few breeders on this forum, I'm sure they can help you out with this too! Hope this helps!

puppies learn how to interact, behave and lessons on social structure from their mom & litter mates. 12 weeks is the perfect age to leave their canine family-from a behavioral standpoint. They are learning valuable lessons that we as humans cannot teach up to that point if removed to soon they can be unbalanced mentally.

age
 

As many know I have bred for decades..when I placed my pups under 12 weeks it did not work for me. I spent hours on the phone talking the new owners through many basic puppy problems that seem to appear from 8 weeks until 12 or so. I find them to be ready to go around 12 weeks..they are eating well, had several shots and have had enough mom/ littermate time to be well adjusted for the future. Most liver shunt and serious problems show up in the time frame also.
Goos luck

I guess that I am cocerned with this subject because my puppy is under 12 weeks and I wanted to know what the drawbacks of having a young pup are and what the common census is on this subject. I also have questions because my breeder was pushing for us to pick our puppy up close to 8 weeks as possible. ( yes, I am beginning to doubt my breeder's knowledge). :(

I got my pup when he was 9 weeks old.

Puppy arrival
 

Hi...I'm picking up my new puppy next weekend at the age of 10 wks. That is the time that the breeder likes to let them go to make sure they are eating well and had that 2nd set of shots~
I can't wait...lol Melissa (patiently waiting on Sophie) :aimeeyork

How exciting!!!! Don't forget to post pictures. The day will come before you know it.

Sorry to say but it is not only for the benefit of peoples showing their dogs , it is for the benefit of the puppies . IMO , there are too many peoples who want to have puppies when they are too young and most of these peoples don't have a clue on how to take care of one .

I got mine at 16 weeks. It was too late in my opinion. I picked him out at 12 or 13, but didn't want to bring him home because I was going to go on vacation and would rather leave him with his parents and the breeder than anyone else.

age
 

Each extra week the breeder keeps the pups, cost them more money..shots, food..but more then that, the work of cleaning, grooming..mom is done and many breeders want them gone. Some have more litters coming, younger litters who need attention and space is a factor. There are dozens of reasons..some are in need of funds to pay the rent. I would not buy from a breeder who needs to sell pups to pay bills..it will all hit the fan in due time.
Size is important also...I perfer not to place anything under 1 1/2 pounds, no matter the age..most pet owners do not know how to care for a tiny one pound animal, it makes me worry!!!.....breeder must begin housetraining and lots of socilizing..and many breeders do not have the time or space or patience.

YorkieRose, I value your input. I have never read anything that I did not agree with. I got Maggie at 8 weeks. She weighed 2.5 Even though she had a little meat on her bones, she really wasn't ready to come home. She cried, wouldn't eat, bowel and tummy problems. I was beginning to wonder if I had made a mistake by purchasing such a fragile baby. I had never owned a toy breed in my life. All my dogs are big, outside, working cattle dogs. Now Maggie is 4 months old and she is learning very quickly, is 95% housebroken (rings the bell on the door, when she needs to go out). Has knowledge of simple commands down pat. Eats very well. All of this only started falling into place just this past two weeks. Therefore, if I had to do this all over again, I would not be in such a hurry. That extra couple of weeks, means everything when it comes to getting settled in, for both the baby and the new parents.

My puppy is 10 weeks old today, but I won't get to bring her home for a week or two. I may not have to wait until she is 12 weeks old if the breeder sees she is eating well on her own. Breeder wants me to bring her back for her last shots.

She is a very reputable breeder and I think the only reason she is considering letting me have her a little early is Shelby doesn't have any littermates and she needs more bonding and stimulation. I visit her every week and she seems sad when I leave.

It's painful leaving her behind but I know she is growing and getting a good start.

I got my puppy at 9 weeks. She was fine in every way. Easy to train.
Maybe I just got lucky or having an older dog at home and being at home myself every day helped.

When I got Carter, he was 24-25 weeks old. He was SOOOOO easy! I was really scared to get another pup at the usual age . .. but . . . I did get Cooper when he was only 9 weeks and 4 days old.

I did have Carter here to help keep Cooper in line but I still felt guilty for having him here so young. My breeder was having major personal issues and taking him younger than 12 weeks was the best for both at the time.

Cooper was eating like a horse when he came to live with us and was healthy. I lucked out but not everyone else does. He's never had low blood sugar issues either. I was truly lucky.

He's now 15 weeks old and is blossoming in our home!

Lisa

Youngest I've ever had was 3 weeks - it took a lot of work to make him accept other dogs when he could finally go out and meet any and he never really accepted other people as he became inprinted on my husband and I very strongly. Oldest we have taken on was 15 years a short life with us but no less loved and she learned to love us very quickly too.

I got my lycan when she was 6 weeks old i often wonder if the woman i had gotten her from had kept her longer if she would still be alive. She was so little at 6 weeks she weighed 13 oz's

For myself , I'll never let a puppy go before 12 weeks old . If the pup is very small , I keep him or her until the pup have a good weight . If the potential Owner insist too much for have a very small pup , sorry but I don't let him or her have the pup . Sometimes , peoples tell me that I am too strict for them .

I think its awesome that you are being sooo careful! These are little lives we are dealing with and you can't get that life back if something goes wrong and they are not in your care! I commend you on your responsible practices!

age
 

I am not saying a pup under 12 weeks is doomed...but what I mean is, it does not work for me. I want to check a couple times for parasites, give some shots..do you know a pup is much more likely to react to vaccine on the second round at 10 to 12 weeks? If they are going to react, I perfer it be with me.
I do feel if a breeder is a high volume breeder and the pups get little or no training and attention, it might be best to get it at 9 or 10 weeks, but never a super tiny one. If it is tiny the buyer might as well let the breeder foot any vet bills if there is a problem.

Thanks! All of this is really good information that I'll keep in mind for the next yorkie.

perfect age puppy
 

I "interviewed" a lot of breeders and read a lot of information that supported getting that new puppy at 12 weeks provided the weight/health was good. When I bought Chloe, the breeder let me have her at 10 only on the written ok from her vet and I honestly had no problems with her from day one. She did not even wimper the first night and is a great dog. Lacey's breeder would not allow her puppies to leave until at least 12 weeks, no matter what. I believe it is really important to get acquainted with the breeder and get a comfort level before completing the transaction. Both breeders are my friends now and want me to let them know how my girls are doing. I don't breed or show yorkies but I would want to ask a lot of questions and I think the good breeders want to do the same, they love their dogs and want to ensure good homes, not just take your money and rush them out the door. It is a good point about people needing room, etc. but in my opinion, perhaps the breeder is taking on too much if they are so interested in turnover.

WOW! Seems that in my area, people let them go at 8 weeks. I've been talking with a breeder about a little male and she said he would be ready to go at 7 weeks. He is currently 5 weeks. Even I was going to let mine go at 8 weeks...as long as the pups were eating good and healthy. Might have to rethink this.

I have friends who breed and I will not refer to them..the biggest reason is that they let their babies go at 8 weeks and rarely are they kept to age 12 weeks. For me, 12 weeks are minimum and have most recently placed 20 week old babies. I have found that older babies who have lived with their moms and siblings til 12 weeks of age (at least) have a better idea of doggy behavior and who they are. And, I have never had a new parent tell me that the older puppy had any adjustment problems. Even, retired moms have little difficulties IF the home is chosen with great care...A lot goes into the selection process when a Rini baby leaves my home.. I know this can be ready as patting myself on the back, but that is not the oint. The point is the baby is the most important part of the whole process...

Yes txshopper73, I am also from TX and my breeder let all of hers go at 8 weeks. In fact, we wanted to wait a week or two to pick up our new baby due to us being out of town the week when Nomi turned 8 weeks old. Our breeder would only hold her for a few extra days. Needless to say, we cut our vacation short and came home to get the puppy.

Hello Everyone....I am having my yorkie Shipped in 3 wks...
I am new to this site..and New to owning a Yorkie. I am very excited yet very nervous. Alot of people on this site are very informative. I am scared now to have him shipped...he is 1 1/2 pds...and will be only 10 weeks old in 3 wks at time of shippment..ahhhhhhh...I am soo scared. My breeder seems reputable and knowledgable...she said she has been doing this for 30 yrs. and owns 16 yorkies on her own..in her HOUSE!!...she has a very good contract we have signed and sent back.
After reading lots of information including this site...I am afraid to have him shipped and afraid to have him at 10 wks...regardless of the guarantee..I would never want anything to happen to him..I am attached and Ive only seen pictures of the baby...

signed
excited and apprehensive

Airplane pick up Sat
 

Wow...I am due to receive my furbaby this Sat. shipped from Ohio to PA. 1:45 min flight. She will actually be 8 weeks when shipped. I started worrying about this as well. I would like to hear some experiences too especially pertaining to weening off the mom too soon and/or shipping.
Thanks

Puppy Toddlers (3 - 6 Weeks) During the Toddler period, puppies emerge on their own from the litter. They venture into the surrounding environment. This emergence from the litter is a gradual and continual learning experience. During this stage of development puppies learn basic behavioral patterns specific to dogs. While playing, they practice different body postures, learning what the postures mean and how they affect their mother and litter mates. They learn what it is like to bite and be bitten, what barking and other vocalizations mean and how to make and use them to establish social relationships with other dogs. Such learning and activity tempers their own biting and vocalizing. From the age of five weeks, the mother teaches her puppies basic manners. They learn to be submissive to her leadership and what behaviors are acceptable. If necessary, she growls, snarls, or snaps at them as a form of discipline. When weaning the litter, for instance, the mother will discipline her puppies so that they will leave her alone. Because the mother disciplines them in a way that they clearly understand, after a few repetitions, the puppies will respond to a mere glare from her. If a pup has not learned to accept leadership (and discipline) in its early interactions with dogs, its training will be more difficult. Puppies that are removed from the nest too early tend to be nervous, more prone to barking and biting, and less responsive to discipline. Often they are aggressive with other dogs. Generally speaking, a puppy taken away from it's mother and litter mates before seven weeks of age, may not realize its full potential as a dog and companion. To maximize the mental and psychological development of puppies, they must remain in the nest with their mother and litter mates until seven weeks of age.

Socialization Period (7 - 12 Weeks) It is at this age that rapid learning occurs. At seven weeks, puppies can learn and what they learn will have a lasting impact. Everything he comes in contact with will make a lasting impression upon him as it never will again. Not only will he learn, but, he will learn whether he is taught or not. Though he has a short attention span, what things he learns are learned permanently and resistant to change. Therefore, owners need to be careful about what their puppies are learning at this time. Your puppy is very anxious to learn how you want him to behave and react, and he needs to be shown what is expected of him in his new role as your pet. There are rules you will expect your puppy to obey. Establish those rules NOW while behaviors are easy to establish. For instance, how your pet interacts with you is determined during puppyhood. What he does now is what he will likely do later. So, don't allow your puppy to do things which will be unacceptable when he becomes a dog. During this time, you and your puppy will also begin to know and understand each other. You will get to know about your puppy's particular temperament and personality - whether he is strong-willed or eager to please, gentle or rambunctious, shy or outgoing, and just what else makes him the endearing individual that he is. For the puppy, this is both an exciting and somewhat confusing time. There is a whole new world of things to learn about and all sorts of new experiences to digest. Remember that the environments you put your puppy in are more complex than those he would encounter naturally. Puppies must now learn a new set of rules. He needs to know learn how to interact with humans and other animals who live with them. Puppies must adapt to the patterns and tenor of their new homes. All of these experiences and the behaviors which accompany them, must be learned. Because you will impose such important demands on your puppy, you must help him to make the transition into the human environment. You need to lay a groundwork for a trusting, happy mutually satisfying relationship. Keep in mind that puppies are less likely to broaden their experiences if they are insecure. In natural environments, puppies approach new things cautiously. By giving your puppy brief, repeated experiences in new situations, you give him a chance to become familiar. If you don't expose your puppy to a variety of situations and new environments, inappropriate ways to adapt may be learned. During the Socialization period, there is a fear imprint period from 8 - 11 weeks. During this time, any traumatic, painful or frightening experiences will have a more lasting impact on your pup than they would if they occurred at any other time. An unpleasant trip to the veterinarian, for instance, at this time could forever make your dog apprehensive about vets. To avoid this, take some treats and a toy with you. While you wait, play with your puppy and offer him treats. Have your vet give your puppy treats along with lots of praise and petting before and after the examination. Avoid elective surgeries, such as ear-cropping and hernia repair during this time. In general, avoid stressful situations. Remember, dogs are social animals. To become acceptable companions, they need to interact with you, your family, and other people and dogs during the Socialization Period. Dogs that are denied socialization during this critical period often become unpredictable because they are fearful or aggressive. It is during this time, that your dog needs to have positive experiences with people and dogs. Therefore, you need to socialize and teach your puppy how to interact with people and other dogs in a positive, non-punitive manner. You should gradually introduce your puppy to new things, environments, and people. But, care must be taken in socializing your puppy with other dogs or in areas where many "unknown" dogs frequent, prior to the time that your dog has had three of its booster vaccinations against contagious diseases. Shopping centers, parks, and playgrounds are good places to expose him. Begin by taking your puppy when there are few distracters. Give him time to get used to new places. Make sure he is secure. If you have children that visit only occasionally, have your puppy meet children as often as you can. If you live alone, make an effort to have friends visit you, especially members of the opposite sex so that your dog will become accustomed to them. If you plan on taking your dog to dog shows or using your dog in a breeding program, get him around other dogs. If you plan to travel with your dog, get him accustomed to riding in the car. Take him for brief rides, at first. Go someplace fun. Remember, if new experiences are overwhelming or negative, the results could be traumatic.

Seniority Classification Period (12-16 Weeks) It is during this critical period that your dog will begin to test you to see who the pack leader is going to be. He'll begin to bite you, in play or as a real challenge to your authority. Such behavior is natural in the pack and not necessarily undesirable. What is undesirable is an inappropriate response on your part. It is important, at this stage, that you establish your position as pack leader, and not just another sibling. Other behaviors, such as grabbing at the leash, will be observed, and all are attempts to dominate you. Biting , in particular though, should always be discouraged. Therefore, you should not wrestle or play tug of war. Such play is aggressive-inducing. What you see as a fun game may be perceived by your dog as a situation in which he has been allowed to dominate. Wrestling, of course, communicates to your puppy that he is allowed to bite you. Tug of war sets you up in a dominance confrontation over an object. He learns that he can keep objects away from you. During tug of war games, puppies will often growl. Growling is a dominance vocalization, designed to warn another pack member that they better not confront the growler or he will bite. Puppies see these games as situations in which they have been allowed to dominate. They do not understand that these are games designed by humans to entertain them. You can continue to play with your dog during this period, but, the relationship between you during the play must change. No mouthing of your body should be allowed and when your dog does mouthe, you should respond with a quick and sharp "NO!" or "No Bite!" Play that does not get rough is best. If you cannot keep the dog from getting overly excited during a game and he persists in biting at you, don't play that way. This will only stimulate additional dominant behavior in the future. For these reasons, this is the stage when serious training should begin. Training establishes your pack leadership in a manner that your puppy will understand. By training your puppy, you will learn how to get him to respond to commands designed to show that you are in charge.

the bold in Socialization Period (7 - 12 Weeks) above-is one of the reasons 12 weeks is a good time.

I put most of the article in for the folks who wanted a little more info on their puppies development.