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Quote:

Originally Posted by yorkietalkjilly (Post 3933706)

You might want to try this method for a while to see if you can work this out yourself since you have small dogs, and if not, employ a trainer:

If I had two fighters, I would study the body language of the attacker just before the attack for a few days with a soft muzzle on her. If she reacts badly to the muzzle, leave it off & be prepared to separate them during the training should she go ahead & attack while learning.

But you must start to see what body language she exhibits prior to attack. Does she raise her head, put her ears forward, back, cock/lower her tail, wall/squint her eyes, lower her head somewhat, hunch up her body, gaze steadily in a lock-on look - stuff like that. Watch her every single movement & get a good feel for what she does because she will send out body language to you & the other dog - all dogs do. They may be subtle but once you are aware of them, you recognize what it is that telegraphs her coming attack.

Then, once you see that behavior start, discipline her right then. Get up & go over to her, make eye contact, point & say "uh uh" in a no-nonsense voice(not a mad or threatening voice - just stay in the calm trainer/teacher mode as you are working to help this dog avoid going into the attack mode & she needs your help. Stay calm & matter of fact. If she continues that behavior or starts to growl or stand up, just calmly reach down & approximate the dominate or alpha dog in a pack's discipline by placing your hand in a claw-like clasp on the back of the dog's neck & keep it there - no verbalizing at this point. Don't say a word, just let the body language of yours & your fingers do the talking. Do not get angry, or dig in or or hurt her or anything like that - just place the fingers like teeth of an alpha dog over the back of the neck & hold. This just tells the dog in terms they instinctively "get" that, hey, enough of that. Once she stops the body language and/or growling, bared teeth IMMEDIATELY take your hand away & walk away, no words, but looking back over your shoulder with eye contact with her. Turn right around if she resumes aggressive body language & repeat.

Here is the important part. You must do this every single time you see her start to lock-on or assume the body language that shows she is obsessing over the other dog. Every single time. By doing this, you will slowly but kindly teach her that you as the leader of this group disagree with her behavior & intend to stop it. You are the leader, you set the rules & enforce them - not her. Then, as I said, the moment she stops that behavior, you stop. That teaches her that by calming down & stopping the beginning of aggression, discipline stops but that you watch her all the way back to your chair. Alpha dogs use long, steady eye contact in sending message to underlings all the time. Often, just a look is all it ever takes with them.

You cannot get emotional or mad or frustrated during this repetitive teaching process as that will only add your nervous or angry energy to the excitement she's working into & will tend to escalate the probability of attack. Just stay in robot mode - dog alerts on other dog, you say "uh oh" with a stern look & if the dog doesn't look away or stop the behavior, you administer some canine-type discipline, stopping the moment the dog gives way, while keeping a stern eye on when retreating.

It will take time, persistence, and getting a handle on your emotions at the aggression, staying patient & it will take it day after day with some dogs for quite some time. And, it will have to be resumed, even after a nice, quiet period of this behavior stopping, once the behavior resumes, as it probably will.

Once you dog gets to the point of stopping that body language with just your words, I would reward that AFTER A WHILE but not the first two weeks. But after a while once the dog seems to start to police itself & relax its alerting to the other dog, walking over & giving a small treat without fanfare or words will further teach the dog that stopping the pre-aggression alert is a very good thing & gets her a little treat, not fingers.

Another word about the other dog. Once it learns you have assumed leadership & discipline, it will start to be less nervous(which can invite attack) & begin to relax, thus lessening the fear messages it telegraphs which really can trip the attack lever on the more aggressive dog.

Just as important, during this time, go right into the "Nothing In Life Is Free" training with the aggressive dog. You can Google it & read up on how to easily do it. It will establish you as the leader of your little pack or family with that dog & that tends to gain you a lot of swat-points with your little fighter. She begins to learn you control absolutely everything in life that matters to her. Your words & actions become all important to her & it makes a dog tend to take your gentle, kind but steady discipline straight to heart.

I would try this for a while & see whether you can achieve some peace this way. If not, I also suggest that you get a reputable behavior modification trainer to visit your home for training. I would not suggest trying this method with big, powerful dogs yourself. Hope it helps. Good luck with those babies.

Heck, I'm going to try that fingers on the neck with Ringo and see how it works. I can see when he's 'obsessing' over her as you describe - for no visible reason.

We already practice NILF but maybe this will help keep Ringo in check as well.

Great advice given here, I may have to try myself.

My Josie is the little miss pants in my pack. I do keep her little butt under control and I do correct her.
The biggest thing is the little dog bone biscuits. She likes to hid them around the house and if Jack gets near she attacks him. Poor Jack sometimes he is just walking past an area and she nails him. I do the ack, ack at her and she knows she is wrong cause she usually will go over and try to lick Jack in the face.
This past week-end she attacked at him and this time I could not figure out what the deal was. I had threw the harnesses and leashes over in a basket the day before(normally they have a place I hang them) and he just walked over to the basket and I didnt see what exactly happened but Jack took off squeeling and hollaring and Josie ran back over to the basket. She got a major ack ack and was put in time out. I then turned the basket over trying to find the treat and nothing there. So the only thing I could figure out was she thought he was going after her harness since it was the one most visable. That one really puzzled me.

I sure hope you can find some of the other posters advice can help and look forward to hearing if it does.

Thank you to all the trainers on here!!! This is invaluable information....working with a dog that has been professionally trained is nothing short of wonderous....I so envy all the knowledge you have about dog instincts and psychology....I have known about the putting them on their side or back....I didnt know...or have forgotten!!!....the "jaws" on the scruff of the neck....the walks together but with separate people....soooooo much great info!!! Thanks!

Gwenni is the instigator of such things at my house. I am a huge fan of what I call a time out. Any time Gwenni attacks Finnigan she's immediately scolded and taken from the room. We have her sit in her "quiet area" and then bring her back after Finnigan has calmed down. I only had to do this 3 times and all attacks have stopped. She still growls and nips at him from time to time, but she hasn't attacked him since Christmas 2010 I think.

I would go to Stilwell's site, find a Positively trainer near you, and hire them. I wouldn't give her the chance to attack even if that means separating, leashing, kenneling, etc. Then a trainer can show you how to train while keeping him safe. It does not sound like he is nw. Ir you could learn from her book, but that may be a bit more difficult.

I agree, great info. But also keep in mind that each pup is different and what works for one may not work for another (not talking about professional training). You find what works with each pup through trial and error.

Quote:

Originally Posted by JMuedog (Post 3933726)

:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:

Quote:

Originally Posted by AllDogBoots (Post 3933663)

Jeanie, I'm sorry to hear about the issues. Definitely go with the professional route if you can. Have you ever had professional training for them? You will be amazed at the changes that can take place.

Thanks Karen. We had professional training for Buster when he was much younger and before we got Maggie, but it was for the basic commands. I'm thinking of going the professional training route as well as some of the advice already given. The place in Rosenberg is close to my house and I'm going to call them. I have to do something. Maggie can be so sweet but I'm afraid she's going to really hurt Buster.

Quote:

Originally Posted by yorkietalkjilly (Post 3933706)

Since Maggie's attacks have gotten more frequent, I have been studying her body language and can usually tell when she is about to attack. I was downstairs when she attacked this morning. From what I can see she will usually stare at him for a few seconds before she attacks. I've been trying to watch her at the times when I think she is going to attack and try to divert her attention or start telling her NO. Unfortunately, most of the time, I don't have much warning. We were visiting friends the other day and he was behind my legs to get away from the other two dogs and she attacked him. I never saw her coming, I thought she was playing with the other dogs. The reason he was hiding is one of the other males was trying to hump him and had his penis out and Buster wanted no part of that. I know showing attention to him while she is getting attention is one thing that will set her off. Anyway, I'm going to try the advice I've been given and try to stop the attacks. I also want to contact the trainers in Rosenberg. In the last month or so, she has been attacking almost every day.

I know - great info! I really never thought of the hands on the neck thing - though I've watched enough Victoria AND Cesar that I should have remembered something like that.

As I read everyone's posts and think this through ~ it also comes to me that Lucy is the instigator at times. She always tries to get between me and Ringo if I'm petting him or showing him any attention. She tries to bite his nose and paws at his face.

For this - he is incredibly patient. But then, for no reason, he'll get that gleam in his eye . . .

I also like the Kiss-E collar & other items that cover the Yorkie's body & head, such a a raincoat or Halloween costume - even Service Vest with a little weight in each side. Something that slightly inhibits the dog's movements & tends to settle some dogs. Even a Thunder shirt. Combine that with the human adaptation of the little clasp with no malice in it & it might work when you see her beginning to alert/obsess. Don't lift her up by the scruff or shake her, just the emotionless clasp together with eye contact on your way to her & on your way away. See if it works. Good luck!

Nothing in Life is Free Nothing in Life is Free
My advice is to start with this.
Yorkietalkjilly and others gave you some good advice. Consider getting a professional if you can. If you feel overwhelmed or truly worried that they will hurt each other. We can give you general advice, but a in home visit from a professional is better. In your home, we can study body posture, tail, ears, lips, licking, etc.. We can observe and find out what triggers aggression with your dog(s).
We do start retraining with Nothing in Life is Free. We also use time outs, the Enough Nip which is using the fingers to tap or mimic a bite on the neck. The Enough Nip only works before they get teeth on each other, not during a fight. If a real fight happens, you can pick them up by the scruff of the neck, but I have been accidently bitten doing this. I suggest instead picking the aggressive dog up by the back legs. Try to grab them as close to the body as possible, that is less stressful on their knees. I have never been bitten doing this (thirty plus years). Give the cue word Enough, stomp your feet, then grab the back legs and with your thumbs facing you, not the dogs belly and simply lift your arms up toward the sky. Don't pull or drag the dog toward you. When this is done correctly, it looks like a coach calling a touch down. Practice with a pillow, will help make this natural response. Hope this helps, Teresa

Sorry for some reason this part did not post above.

I love the idea of the soft cone collar, it would certainly discourage fighting.

If your dogs do draw blood, remember bites and puncture wounds get infected easily. You need to have your vet check bites that break the skin. Many Vets prescribe antibotics.

I'll just throw out some more thoughts for what they are worth.

You might try putting a furry costume with headpiece that covers/protects the little victim's ears & body during the training also. The thickness can protect & possibly deter your fighter. It may add some confidence & sense of protection to the other dog. It may not work at all but just try it & see what effect this has on each dog during this training period.

Some desensitization training of your fighter to your other dog getting affection is also in order. Exercise your little fighter with a good walk or game of fetch so she's really good & tired. Be sure she hasn't eaten or had treats for at least 4 hours. Have someone loving & petting her little victim from a distance as you are distracting your little fighter with a high-value treat. Don't feed it to her at first - just hold it in your closed fist & bring it very near her nose & slowly start to open your hand to expose a bit of the, warm, delicious-smelling boiled chicken. Run that fist all around her, causing her to turn & dance around and if she starts to watch the petting going on across the room, open that hand quickly - but don't let her get that food - just show it & re-distract her.

That's it. Only about 30 seconds the first time & then tell that person to stop petting & walk away, taking the other little dog with him, as your fighter will want to go over & smell all that scent from the person on its proposed victim. It could cause her to become jealous & attack then.

I would wait a bit then rub a washcloth over your little fighter, getting her scent all on it, crate or have someone hold her or leash her & then go rub that washcloth all over your other dog, which is still out of the room & only then re-introduce it without fanfare yourself, with a bag of chicken treats attached to your waistband, open at the top & have your helper follow you into the room, the helper coming over & sitting down beside your fighter, gently petting her this time. Sort of rustle the treat bag as you come into the room with the other dog & your helper following. WATCH your little fighter as all settle in & use another piece of bait chicken from the treat bag to keep your fighter from showing renewed interest in the other dog until a little time more has past. Keep that treat bag with you at all times - actually on your person. Your dog will tend to watch & obsess over YOU, not the other dog just due to that.

Later, repeat the exercise - keeping it very short & sweet at first & then letting each session get a bit longer as your little fighter starts to associate all that petting & loving of her usual victim with the pleasure of warm boiled chicken! After she gets pretty good at not paying attention to the loving across the room, reward her with the actual chicken to show her that there is a real reward tied to the other dog's getting attention as she stays away from it.

The key here is not to hurry this training. Don't flood her with it but do be consistent with it about 3 times a day at first - then you can increase the training episodes' length.

Over time she should come to associate that dog's petting/loving with good things & not want to agrees, especially as she learns aggressing involves mommie giving her consistent discipline. If after a while you begin to say "chicken" when you offer the fist full of treat, later, if you sense/see tenseness in the air or body language showing alerting, just say "chicken" & see if the little aggressor won't come running toward you - not her living chew toy. Of course, you can use any word you want when you offer the closed fist of food but later, just the word should detract enough & start the dog away from an alert or fight. Praise & reward her ANY time she stops alerting on the other dog & turns away - that's a big, big step she's taken & should get her a nice, genuine praise & nice treat. It's a lot of trouble to take but this method has worked very effectively with some dogs & it sure beats all the trouble & tension & agrees from escalating fights so it is worth it. Combined with the gentle discipline, it can retrain & teach your little fighter that you are in control, only you run things & you are going to keep order.

Also, try moving the dogs' beds to different places, change the food bowl positions in the room - anything you can to show that things are changing around your place. It will be your intention to keep your fighter out of her usual patterns during which she developed some bad, bad habits as you employ the NILIF methods for all her other needs & activities.

Those are just some scatter-shooting thoughts to think about & possibly try.

I also like Victoria Stillwell's methods of training. Almost anything but intimidation, cruelty & fear can work to redirect/retrain a dog if you put your mind to it, go slowly but stay loving, gentle, persistent & patient.

Jeanie there is a behaviorist in Sugarland. I have always heard really good things about her. One of our foster pups went there....the foster parents were very happy and it did help the pup.

Here is her website:

Texas Veterinary Behavior Services