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i posted on your other thread. basically just please ask a lot of questions and check out the health and gentic testings done on the parents of the dog you are buying. if no health or genetic screenings or tests were done i would prob. just walk away if it were me. AKC is a great place to make sure a dog is registered to, but it doesn't guarantee a great breeder. the YTCA is a better place to find a good breeder who is usually breeding to standard in both looks and genetics and HEALTH which is most important to me. good luck on the visit and i hope you get answers to all your questions that i know you will be asking. GOOD JOB! on all that research. it will pay off in the end. |
That's exciting. Congratulations. |
Sounds like you are on the right track! I don't know anything about the breeder you mentioned, so I can't give any recommendation there. I will say that you can't just go off of what you see on a website, or what they tell you over the phone. Good place to start, but you will want to find out so much more. The next steps are really important. It was really important for me to talk to the breeder in person, at their residence. Then you can see the sire and dam and the living conditions for the dogs. Take a list of questions to ask when you visit. When you are there you don't want to get too distracted with the puppies to actually get the info you need. Ask about the breeding lines the dam and sire come from, ask about testing...so much more, I'm sure there is a sticky somewhere with all the info. When does she let the puppies go home? This right here will tell you a lot about the breeder, IMO. The best breeders want the pup to be 12 weeks or older. You've been given a lot of good advice. I commend you so much for listening to it. Don't stop now! :) You buy the breeder first...and the puppy second. Quote:
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Please plan for other expenses.. such as vet visits, flea preventive and more. The biggest cost of the puppy is not the price you pay. The biggest concern is emergency health care. Pet insurance may be what you need. Good luck |
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-purchase price -first wellness check -shots, including the rabies vaccine -spay/neuter -microchipping -grooming -1 year wellness check -pulling of puppy teeth As well as the cost of normal supplies like beds, blankets, toys, food, |
Sorry, didn't finish my thought in my last post, but I think you get he idea. This year, aside from piddle pads, food, and new toys; Kaji will be getting his yearly wellness exam when he turns 3, and a dental. That does not include emergency situations. It's still adds up though! |
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yes... oh have I learned my lessons well!!! OP we are making these statements because we have been there done that! Think of us like your mother (or big sis) who is trying to prevent you having the heartbreak we have had, or have seen. You can have your puppy, just plan well. |
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That is very nice of your bf! :thumbup: Now, as others have said, the AKC website doesn't mean your research is done for you. You have to continue with the diligent questioning and warning signs and continue to research this person. They may be a good breeder and they may not. I agree with what everyone else was mentioning price wise. The price is NOT the biggest cost of the puppy. We've spent a lot of money on Rylie with just vetting, excluding all the other costs (such as food, toys, etc.). Her price and pick up costs weren't a huge deal in comparison. |
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And please do not give her a deposit before being absolutely sure. Per her contract there is a $400 non-refundable deposit. |
I sound like the voice of doom..but in south Florida you will not find a vet to do dental under $400..and that is cheap..average runs $600 where OP is.... |
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