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Help With Breeding HI. I AM NEW HERE AND HAVE A FEW QUESTIONS ABOUT BREEDING. i HAVE 2 MALES THAT I LOVE TO DEATH, MY GIRLFRIEND HAS A FEMALE. wE HAVE HAD BOTH DOGS TESTED AND THEY HAVE COME BACK AS GOOD STANDARDS OF THE BREED AND HAVE A CLEAN BILL OF HEALTH. WE WOULD LIKE TO MATE THEM, SO THAT WE CAN EACH HAVE ANOTHER YORKIE TO LOVE, NOT FOR PROFIT. WE ARE PREPARED FOR C-SECTION IF NEEDED(MONEY PUT ASIDE) MY MALE IS AKC /ACA AND HER FEMALE IS AKC. THE FEMALE IS GOING TO TURN 2 IN JULY MY MALE WAS 2 IN JAN. THE FEMALE HAS HAD 4 HEAT SEASONS. WE ARE WAITING FOR THE 5TH IN THE NEXT 5-6 WEEKS. HOW MANY TIMES SHOULD WE LET THEM MATE FOR SUCCESS? I HAVE READ ABOUT THE 9TH DAY OR SO OF HEAT FOR BEST CHANCES BUT HOW MANY TIMES DO WE TRY? WE DONT WANT TO HAVE TOO MANY PUPPIES FOR THE FEMALE TO HANDLE, BUT WOULD LIKE OUR VENTURE TO BE SUCCESSFUL. THE TWO DOGS PLAY TOGETHER ALL THE TIME AND ARE FRIENDS, SO WE DONT THINK IT WILL BE A PROBLEM. CAN ANYONE MAKE SUGGESTIONS? THANKS FOR YOUR TIME.. JANIS;) |
Hi, Well I have to ask what size is your male and your girlfriends female? The male needs to be around at least 2 pd's smaller than the female, to help make sure the pups are small enough for her to deliver. It doesn't always work but there is alot better chance a smaller puppies and a easy birth for the mama. If you have had all proper heath testing done and are going to breed then you need to know that different females are fertile at different times during the heat cycle, some females will conceive as early as 3-5 days into season. but most female are not ready until 9-12 days. Most breeders will breed on the 10-12-14th day of the heat cycle. Some breed on the 10th-11th and 13-th day. and some breed on the 9th-11th-13th day of the cycle. Usually when the female is ready she will start "flagging" lifting her butt up and down and wiggling it in the male dogs face and will let him mount and breed her. If the breeding is successful then the female should whelp 62-65 days after the tie! I hope some of this info was helpful to you. :) And welcome to YT!! This is a great place to learn lots and receive lots of help and information about your yorkies. |
[QUOTE=khyorkies;2083626 I said the female will usually give birth 62-65 days after the tie! I meant to say 63-65 days after the tie! Sorry for that misspelling!! |
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A good suggestion would be to read as much as you can on breeding , whelping , care of puppies before breeding them . |
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Books... I brought about 4 books about breeding. My favorite is "Breeding for Dummies". My vet wanted my male to be much smaller than my female. Your female needs to be 5 lbs or more. I would read everything about setting up your nursery, everything about feeding in case the moma does not feed them. Your nursery must be set up with fresh paper, it is recommended not to use newspaper from my book <not clean for the puppies because of ink at first> I used wrapping boxing paer and it was easy to clean my whelping box. I kept the puppies warm and I helped moma stimulate their elimation with a warm towel because it was her first time. I kept the box clean because she will instintively wanted to clean it herself. I wanted my box to stay clean so they could eventually waddle to the other side to eliminate. I kept my bedding down so they would not smother themselves and I watched them like a hawk for the first 48 hours, because accidents happen... so until I was sure everyone was OK... I also took them to every scheduled appointment and weighted them to make sure they were gaining like they were suppose took... I treated them like infant babies...and we did great. I kept them warm and stimulated when needed to eliminate. I made sure that I tried to make sure that everyone stomach felt like it was suppose to.. I kept my vets number on hand and in my phone. I had milk, bottles and not to harsh cleaning chemicals around. Hope these tips helps. Find a experienced mentor. Know the signs of emergency!!!!!!!:2omg: |
What testing did you get done? |
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If not tested, how do you know your adult dogs are completely healthy? If done properly, there should be no problem with blood drawn this way....it's successfully done hundreds of times each day. |
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but a vet should definitely be checking them for obvious problems. hips and eyes.. i am no expert for sure.. but i do trust my vets advice:animal-pa if the dogs are 2 years old, then any diseases would have appeared with symptoms:aimeeyork |
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You cannot know if a dog has brucelliosis without a blood test. It is a disease that affects reproduction, you would not "see" symptoms. You need a veterinary opthamologist to check for the first signs of PRA because there would only be minor changes to the retina at first and you would not notice any symptoms until the dog is older, that is true for other eye issues as well. It is also nice if you can get a cardiologist to listen to the heart as they are trained to hear slight murmurs, again heart problems may not be symptomatic until the dog is older. There are many progressive diseases in dogs that are not symptomatic but sometimes the indicators of a possible problem can be detected via screens and tests. |
List of test? :) Will someone post their routine screen for me? When I purchased my dogs I immediately took them to the vet and asked her to check them out, because I didn't really trust and understand the health guarantee... I wanted my vets opinion and I wanted her to put hands on them, listen to them...look at them. I told her they would be bred at about age 2 or 2.5. She gave me the OK, but now I am wondering if I should have done a little more, so I am going to have a conversation with her because of our post... so please tell me what you wonderful guys test for and I am going to confirm all the things I did and maybe add somethings... :D |
Here is alist that was psoted on another thread by MyfairLacy: These I feel ought to be done on every adult dog before being bred: A very careful and thorough physical exam by vet Complete Blood Panel Bile Acid Test Brucellosis Test (every time before breeding) And these are the Health certifications available. It's very impressive to me when a breeder goes further than the basic health testing I mentioned above and gets their dogs certified for any of these things. If I ever decide to show and breed, I'd probably look into most of these for my dogs. Patella and hips cleared & certified by OFA OFA: Patellar Luxation OFA: Patellar Luxation OFA: Hip Dysplasia OFA: Hip Dysplasia OFA: Legg-Calve-Perthes OFA: Legg-Calve-Perthes Eyes checked & cleared & certified by CERF CERF - Canine Eye Registration Foundation CERF - Canine Eye Registration Foundation Heart checked & cleared & certified by OFA OFA: Cardiac Congenital Disease OFA: Cardiac Congenital Disease Thyroid checked & cleared & certified by OFA OFA: Thyroid OFA: Thyroid Ears checked & cleared & certified by OFA OFA: Deafness OFA: Deafness (personally, I think this probably isn't needed for our breed..) You also want to do research into the pedigrees of the male and female to check for any genetic defects/diseases to identify if the dogs could be a carrier or not. |
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