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FirstYorkie · 03-31-2006, 05:43 AM

I'm not sure that Mike is even interested in this topic anymore but it's an interesting topic although somewhat difficult to discuss in generalities. For instance, Jaspersmom, it's hard to advise you without knowing more. In what situations does Dreama growl and nip. Toward other dogs? Humans? What are the circumstances?

In general, I think my thoughts are fairly closely aligned with MuffiesMom's. That is, the human is the LEADER of the pack. I wouldn't say "Boss" because that implies physical dominance on this board (& that I don't believe is necessary). I don't believe that humans are part of the social hierarchy of the dog's pack and the human doesn't need to concern himself with who is "alpha" and who isn't. The dogs will work that out amongst themselves.

That said, though, it is the leader's responsibility to ensure the safety of the group. If one sibling is being beat up on to the extent that blood is being drawn, the dogs may need to be separated and they may need to be separated indefinitely until they can be trusted. The leader will also want to remove items that provoke fights. Do they always fight over bones? Don't give them bones. Do they fight over toys? Don't give them toys when they are in the room together. If they can't eat nicely in the same room, don't feed them in the same room. Get the idea?

If the squabbles are noisy but not physical, I would recommend a policy of cautious watchfulness. Squabbles are going to happen and they aren't necessarily a cause for alarm. If no physical harm is being done, I think the human should stay out of it (other than watching closely that no-one gets hurt).

One technique that I've read about to help siblings get along is called "serial feeding". Line them up and then rapidly feed one bite for you and one bite for you, too. One for you, one for you, too. Do it quickly so they don't have time to fight for the other's share. If one dog does react poorly, he can be quietly escorted from the room while the nonreactive dog continues to be fed. Supposedly, it doesn't take long for reactive dogs to figure out that reacting doesn't get them what they want (food).

03-31-2006, 05:43 AM	#33
FirstYorkie YT 1000 Club Member Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: American in London Posts: 1,739	I'm not sure that Mike is even interested in this topic anymore but it's an interesting topic although somewhat difficult to discuss in generalities. For instance, Jaspersmom, it's hard to advise you without knowing more. In what situations does Dreama growl and nip. Toward other dogs? Humans? What are the circumstances? In general, I think my thoughts are fairly closely aligned with MuffiesMom's. That is, the human is the LEADER* of the pack.* I wouldn't say "Boss" because that implies physical dominance on this board (& that I don't believe is necessary). I don't believe that humans are part of the social hierarchy of the dog's pack and the human doesn't need to concern himself with who is "alpha" and who isn't. The dogs will work that out amongst themselves. That said, though, it is the leader's responsibility to ensure the safety of the group. If one sibling is being beat up on to the extent that blood is being drawn, the dogs may need to be separated and they may need to be separated indefinitely until they can be trusted. The leader will also want to remove items that provoke fights. Do they always fight over bones? Don't give them bones. Do they fight over toys? Don't give them toys when they are in the room together. If they can't eat nicely in the same room, don't feed them in the same room. Get the idea? If the squabbles are noisy but not physical, I would recommend a policy of cautious watchfulness. Squabbles are going to happen and they aren't necessarily a cause for alarm. If no physical harm is being done, I think the human should stay out of it (other than watching closely that no-one gets hurt). One technique that I've read about to help siblings get along is called "serial feeding". Line them up and then rapidly feed one bite for you and one bite for you, too. One for you, one for you, too. Do it quickly so they don't have time to fight for the other's share. If one dog does react poorly, he can be quietly escorted from the room while the nonreactive dog continues to be fed. Supposedly, it doesn't take long for reactive dogs to figure out that reacting doesn't get them what they want (food). __________________ FirstYorkie We Love Clicker-Training!