Quote:
Originally Posted by yorkietalkjilly  Another way to train him to accept another dog in his presence when out walking is to essentially flood him with the experience over and over in short, very frequent sessions two or three times a day for 4 or 5 days a week. It's not a method I favor but works for some and it's okay as long as you don't over-intimidate, over-work, hurt or scare the dog in the process, keeping the training very upbeat, matter-of-fact but firm, showing him what to do and what will happen each time he reacts inappropriately and always re-affirming who is the leader.
Bear in mind that Yorkies have a tendency toward collapsing trachea so only use the presence of the collar up high to for him to feel you have control of him and never pull on it or apply pressure on his neck with the collar. You can achieve the best results using a collar high on his neck but have to be exceptionally careful there is no pressure on the front of his neck or use a harness for this training. If you do use a collar, use it very carefully for only the first few lessons until you've got more control of him and switch to a harness.
You can use a friend with a well-behaved dog to walk past and, with Toby's collar up high at the top of his neck, just under his jawline, either snap his lead gently or touch his shoulder/flank with your left hand when he alerts on the other dog and say "ignore" and keep walking him forward very fast. If he has trachea problems, use a harness instead and you can snap the lead a little stronger but not hard enough to scare him. If he tries to turn aside or looks back at the other dog, walk him in a fast circle and then forward again. Don't allow him to win and pull toward the dog or go after the other dog, using your lead, your leadership skills/body language and commands and your actual hands and legs blocking him to control his behavior.
Or stop in place, bend down and put your hand in a clinched-position over the back of his neck(replicating an alpha-dog "bite") as you say "ignore" or "leave it" when he begins to go ballistic as the other dog approaches, keeping his collar up high on his neck for the feeling in his mind you have maximum control but careful not to allow it to cause any pressure(or use a harness) and holding his lead upward and taut but not tense, holding him in there in place while the other dog proceeds on past.
The moment he gives in and relaxes you instantly relax the lead and begin to move immediately forward in a very fast walk, saying "good relax walkies" or something like that to tell him he did the right thing and it's time to walk again and one more, not allowing him to turn to look or go after another dog as you block and control him with the lead and your body.
Take a deep breath. Redo the whole lesson immediately a few times in a row. Have the other dog trainer keep walking his dog back and forth by him as you show him that if he begins to get excited, you will discipline him by lead snapping, blocking and keeping moving forward or hold him in place until he relaxes and goes quiet and then moving immediately forward again.
I'd do this for 10 minutes or so per session as often as your helper and his dog can work with you. After each session, give him lots of real, heart-felt praise and treats and water(he'll likely have done a lot of panting during the lessons and walking) and have a good, long play session with him out in the back yard to help him work off his tensions then.
Eventually, if you are always consistent and very persistent in firm-but-gentle disciplining while retraining him on what is expected of when when another dogs walks past, he will begin to see that you will ALWAYS stop him from reacting to other dogs, no matter what, and in time, this wild little guy will begin to get with your program and behave as you'd like.
He'll constantly have setbacks but just keep up the same reaction you've chosen to reshape his problematic behavior and he will eventually stop the inappropriate behavior 99% of the time. Dogs are dogs and not perfect and occasionally a dominant dog approaching with his tail high and a hostile stare will tick off even the most well-behaved dog but that's when the dog owner steps in and reminds the dog of his boundaries and redirects him to the proper behavior. |
Well, thank you for another comprehensive reply showing an interest far and above what I expected, and yes your right on just about every account you mention. I think your probably a behaviourist a psychologist or both, for you have me right and my little dog Toby too, your right on the button here. Yes again as I hinted at previously, you are correct in what you say when you indicate Toby feels through the leash my anxieties but, for me, stopping them is quite another thing as I fear larger dogs near Toby, and will indeed go out of my way to avoid them, that is essentially[as well as liking gardening] why I got an allotment garden so, as it were, I have somewhere where Toby and I can spend time, where he can have freedom from a leash and have a bit time out, for walking him as you seem to indicate has become an anxious time. Toby has never worn a collar,always a harness and nothing around his neck whilst at home.Your right again where you mention Trachea problems in Yorkies I fear he may get a dropped trachea and would hesitate to put him a collar on.
I so wish I lived somewhere remotely near you, as I believe your probably the panacea Toby needs but alas I don't so I will just have to get on with things and try the methods you mention. As you say nothing quick here, however, I will remain steadfast and try your methodology.. Regards Rob