He sounds like a perfectly normal Yorkie puppy, cuter than heck and always wanting attention and activity unless he's sleeping. Here are some thoughts to read and consider and use the tips or not, from someone who has had 3 Yorkies over the years as well as other breeds and worked with a great many foster dogs of all sizes, breeds and psychological states, successfully training and rehabilitating more than a few over the years.
Yorkies were bred for aggression, high-spirits and to think independently when taking on often large, very dangerous vermin in the past so that cute attitude is genetic and they fall into quite naturally. I adore the 'tude of a Yorkie - his willingness to stand up for himself and what he judges is right! No need to try to defeat or crush that, just train your dog to obey your commands by teaching him obedience 5 minutes x2 or x3 daily, using lots of positive reinforcement and keeping it loving and fun for him.
Also teach him there are boundaries to his life when you say "uh oh" or "no" and use the power of your stare and body attitude(as pack leaders in the wild do) while getting up and walking into his personal space, causing him to eventually give in to you, back off and move away when he's doing things he shouldn't. And then you stand there and continue to lock eyes with him to reinforce your message for a bit. That's mostly how pack leaders of animals living in the wild handle problematic pack-member behavior, resorting to growling, showing teeth or nipping only occasionally during intense times but mostly they control their pack with their intelligence and attitude. He'll soon come to understand that anytime mommie says "uh oh" or "no", unless I stop what I'm doing, she's going to get up and come make me stop and run me off so I'd better stop now. He'll be quick to want to do what you want as dogs are eager to please us when we lead them from a place of firm, gentle leadership.
Yorkie's are extremely personal dogs, loving to be with their humans but sadly, when they are on a schedule for potty-training, they have to be confined when you are away and for short periods when you can't be watching them so they can learn how to hold their bladders/bowels.
Be sure he's had his walkies and play sessions as well as his meals and then after some cuddle time, trying to encourage him to lie on your lap and slow down, put him in his crate and do just what you are doing - ignore him until he calms down and goes to sleep. Taking him out one time when it's not on his schedule will show him how to get out whenever he wants - simply by raising the roof.
That phase lasts until your dog learns that he doesn't get out of the crate unless it's on the schedule, such as first thing after a nap, in the mornings and anytime you return to the room or finish your activities around the house. Try not to keep him in the crate for longer than 30 minute increments when you are home and in the room with him as it will begin to feel like a jail he's readily soil if he has to live in it most of his day.
Puppies love to bite, are teething and biting feels good plus, they use their mouths as we use our hands, to grasp and feel and touch and show passion so I'm a little different from most owners and allow any puppy/older, playful dog around me to bite as much as he likes during playtime - as long as he is playing and has a soft mouth and doesn't hurt. If he does bite too sharply, I say "uh oh"(during the training phase and then "no" once he's older and knows not to bite hard but gets carried away) just gently grab onto his little muzzle and hold it longer than he likes all the while staring hard at him and he soon understands that that happens every time he bites too hard and will begin to police himself and bite only playfully easy.
He sounds adorable and I hope you two enjoy this phase of puppyhood, trial that it can be.
__________________ Jeanie and Tibbe One must do the best one can. You may get some marks for a very imperfect answer: you will certainly get none for leaving the question alone. C. S. Lewis |