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One of the most troublesome breeding experiences is the cesarean section. It’s uncommon in Arctic/spitz, herding, and hunting breeds and when necessary, it rarely results in post delivery complications. Cesareans are most often needed in toy dogs or breeds with unusually large heads and narrow pelvic girdles. The odds of surgical intervention increase when the dog is also short coupled and “firmly packed.”

For example, Bulldogs and Pekinese are at double risk due to their unique heads, pear shaped and rather inflexible bodies. Bullies and Bostons, Chihuahuas and Chows - the list is complex and when viewed through the spectacles of perspective, it presents a problem begging for solutions.

This is not meant to suggest that breeders should go backwards or sacrifice the wonderful features of type that distinguish such breeds. The point is that new generations of breeders are having a difficult time coping with the ever-increasing need for c-sections and the frustrating consequences. The shrinking group of experienced dog people seem less inclined to waste time passing on stock-sense to new breeders who are too often here today, gone tomorrow. Those who do become passionate about creating a canine masterpiece have fewer and fewer resources for common sense advice. In many critical areas, Science has replaced Nature.

Successful breeders have already made the acquaintance of a breeder's best friend, Common Sense. Novice fanciers struggling with today’s textbooks can avoid many of the problems encountered by learning management techniques that have served man and his animal friends for centuries.

Firstly, if you think there is the slightest risk of surgical delivery, be prepared. Talk to your vet. Explain that you don’t want an appointment for surgery, that you prefer to allow the bitch an opportunity to deliver naturally and failing that, you want her to experience as much natural labor as is safe for her. Most vets will advise against this plan but you may be fortunate (or persuasive) enough to have a vet who will go along with you. Most vets are not on call for their clients. Economics outweigh loyalty and you are likely to be directed to the emergency clinic at 2:00 AM. That being the case, ask your vet to do a phone call introduction to the emergency veterinarian and staff prior to her expected delivery date. Which by the way, can be as much as five days prior to the traditional sixty-third day.

Give her newspaper or paper towels to shred, arrange, and rearrange during the nesting period. If you have provided a proper, private “den” area and the bitch is allowed to completely indulge in nesting routine, she can be expected to settle in comfortably with her new family whether they arrive by c-section or not.

Even though you know she will be surgically delivered, she should be allowed to progress far enough into labor wherein she will concentrate on licking her nipples and vulva (and everything else within reach) and ideally, her water should break. She will then become quite serious about licking and arranging her bed so that even with the interruption of a trip straight into surgery, she will be much more likely to take up where she left off upon returning home and regaining her wits. The pre-delivery licking is tremendously important as it coincides with hormonal release and lays an important foundation for the bonding behavior between mother and whelp. The first time dam who is trotted off to surgery without benefit of the nesting, licking, cleaning behavior is one who will likely never develop good mothering skills. She is more apt to reject or be frightened by those odd squirmy little things she awakens to find in her bed.

By now you are beginning to understand why there is a higher rate of apathy or aggressive behavior exhibited by short coupled breeds. It is more difficult for a Boston to reach around to lick the genital area. For a pregnant Frenchie, it is almost impossible! Combine the physical limitations with a higher cesarean rate and the predisposition towards offspring rejection is directly affected. Ahh but there is a solution.

After having allowed her to perform as much of the pre-delivery pattern as is safe, insist that the veterinary surgeon save one very wet placenta. To emphasize the importance of the request, as you gather the bitch, receiving box, blanket, (and of course, your credit card!) be sure to toss in a zip lock freezer bag. If you have reason to believe the round trip will take more than three hours, refrigerate the placenta, otherwise, your very important nursery tool will keep quite nicely.


Upon returning home, settle the bitch and pups and hope she will take notice of them. You can try rubbing them across her vulva but my advice is to take no chances. Prepare the placenta by placing the plastic bag in hot water. When she is alert enough to respond to you, dip the pup’s rear quarters into the bag, then dump the whole mess under her tail as you discreetly place the pups at her rear.

If she was plucked from the nest in the midst of cleaning herself (accompanied by the release of endorphins), her reaction now should be classic. She feels the same pain as before surgery, and she associates it not with the whelps but with licking, cleaning, and satisfaction. So what will she do? Sniff at the mess you’ve quietly made, then clean herself, then with no hovering interference and no break in concentration, she’ll begin to lick her messy whelps. You can now sit back, relax, and admire motherhood functioning as nature intended.

Of course you will watch her closely. She may have mood swings. She may be restless. Both can be aided by a bowl of warm milk, calcium and vitamin “C” appropriate for her size, and if you are knowledgeable about herbs, a bit of valerian and skullcap. She should be otherwise left in a cool darkened room to sleep and recover. A serving of warm raw calves liver should be offered the first time she seems hungry but food should be otherwise limited to milk, broth, meat, or a light gruel of oatmeal for the next 72 hours after which she can go back on her regular high quality diet. Offer water free choice.

Take her out to eliminate only when she lets you know she is ready. You can encourage her to change sides but if she resists, do not force her. Change her pads or matting only after 24 hours and do so while she is outside with a friend or family member. Be sure to leave some small pieces of her original bedding. Handle the pups daily, but gently. Imagine being swooped up or dropped ten stories in an elevator and you will understand why pups go rigid when similarly handled. Gradually expose them to bright light only after the eyes are open.

Play music for them. Enjoy them. Love them and be proud as they leave for new homes and new adventures.

You and she have done this right!


lol guess i should have posted the link instead!!!
sorry