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http://www.dogbreedinfo.com/fleas.htm
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How can I tell if I have fleas?
The first thing you need to do is look for flea feces. This will be small grains of what appears to be dirt. If you take this ‘dirt’ and rub it between your fingers with a small amount of water and it turns red you’ve found your proof. This is because flea feces contains dried blood. The most common place to find it is on “Spot’s” belly, his favorite bed or any area that your pet frequents. This feces drops off and accumulates in recesses. Look closely and you will find it hiding in the soft underfur of his coat or the deep dark recesses of his pet bed. This is where the flea favors to lay its eggs because this is a warm fertile area.
I have fleas, now what am I up against?
Fleas prefer higher temperatures and higher levels of carbon dioxide. Some eggs will remain on your pet while others fall off, spreading the nuisance intruders stronghold. These eggs will develop into the second stage of the cycle, a larvae, which will feed on this flea feces. This small worm-like larvae will most likely be deeply hidden from view. They are commonly found in the bottom layer of carpeting, pet bedding, or under furniture where they will shed twice before maturing. Here they lay and feed and grow undetected and undisturbed. Before they are detected they become pupae. These develop within a silk-like cocoon, this cocoon is extremely resilient. Inside this protective shell the nuisance insects can live for up to 1 year without feeding. This shell can protect the flea pupae from even some of the strongest flea defenses. This is why just when you think you’ve eradicated the problem and you’re free of the pests they seem to come back out of nowhere. They lay in wait for a host to feed on. They are sensitive to vibrations. Once they sense a vibration they emerge to feed and perpetuate the life cycle. The adult flea can develop and mature in nearly 3 weeks and live the adult stage for approximately 25 days.
Now that we know who we are up against, how do we get rid of them? DILIGENCE!
Getting Rid of Fleas
Several methods are available. Lets start with “Spot”...
1. Flea Collars: The old stand-by method. Available almost everywhere. Moderately effective at keeping fleas off your pet and providing an unhealthy, un-welcoming environment in your pets fur. Be careful as many have harsh and potentially dangerous chemicals, and their placement around the neck can lead to serious compromise of the nervous system if improperly used or mixed with other toxic agents. Read package instructions for size and weight of your dog.
2. Topical Treatments: My personal favorite. Available from your veterinarian or at your local pet store. A few carefully placed drops between the shoulder blades (to keep your pet from ingesting it) will protect “Spot” for quite a while. Common medications include Frontline(R) and Advantage(R) brands. Carefully read package instructions for your dogs size and weight. Check package ingredients for effective chemicals listed below.
3. Oral medications: Available through your veterinarians office. This product is noted for causing the larvae to become unable to reproduce, thus rendering an end to the life cycle.
4. Flea Shampoo/Bathing/Dips: Another favorite. Getting “Spot” all scrubbed up will help ease his discomfort. It will also give you a better idea of just how bad your situation may be. Check his fur CAREFULLY while bathing. Try to remove ALL of the fleas you find. This may be an arduous task but will be well worth the effort. If prevented on “Spot” early enough you may be able to stop the infestation before it takes over your home too. Observe the bath water. If you find fleas are still alive in the bath water they are likely to re-infest your dog with a simple splash. Most flea shampoos only help remove the fleas from your pets fur. Find a shampoo that KILLS the fleas while shampooing your pet. Scrub thoroughly. Take your time. Be patient. When bathing your dog, follow these simple rules to get the most out of your scrubbing. Start at your pets head and work down. Fleas will instinctively move to higher ground. If you start at the head you have better control of the pests and are more able to keep tabs on how well you have eradicated the fleas. Continue by working your way from the head towards the back and the chest. You can use a flea comb as you scrub. But make sure to pull the hair in the opposite direction and work your fingers down to the bottom of the coat. This will help you see if any are hidden in his coat and loosen the possible eggs that lay underneath. Continue working in this fashion to the tip of the tail. Don't stop there. Go back to the head and check for survivors. If you find a few, start from the head and do it ALL again. "Spot" might be getting antsy by this point but it will be for his best. A few minutes in the tub will save him months of digging, chewing and scratching. Remember, taking your pet to have it ‘dipped’ will NOT IN ITSELF ELIMINATE A FLEA INFESTATION IN YOUR HOME! You must treat your home along with your pet.
5. Flea combs: Flea combs will only remove 10-60% of the fleas on your pet. While this product may seem like a good idea it only is relocating your problem. If you comb “Spot” indoors, the fleas simply jump to the carpeting or furniture. If you comb “Spot” outdoors, you are sending them out in the grass only to be picked up and brought back in later.
6. Powders: Flea powders are convenient to use but they should be monitored. This type of treatment can cause dry skin on your pet. Some dogs are prone to dry skin and a powder may cause more harm than good. Powders have been replaced over the years with more sophisticated and effective methods.
Treating the House
Let's say that we have "Spot" in tip-top shape now. Are we done? NO!!! You MUST MUST MUST treat your home along with your pet. Remember, through exponential growth, if he dropped just one flea it could turn into an infestation. So what do we do about “Spot’s” bedding? What about the carpeting? The furniture? Many items are available. You will need to use a combination of two things; an adulticide along with an insect growth inhibitor.
An adulticide does just as its name implies. It kills off the adult through poisoning. The inhibitor interrupts the developmental stages of the cycle rendering the pest unable to reproduce.
1. FOGGERS: These are the "bombs" you find at your local pet or discount department stores. They are somewhat effective, but unfortunately the miss the important areas. They usually do not reach the areas under your furniture and since they are commonly set off in the center of a room they miss the outlying areas. These also require you and your pet to leave your home during fogging.
2. SPRAYS: Best for in-home use. These can be directly sprayed onto areas where you know there is a problem. They can be deliberately sprayed under furniture and beneath couch pillows, on pet beds, into floor cracks, behind curtains, etc. Read package directions carefully. Remember to keep pets and humans off sprayed areas until dry.
3. POWDERS/DUSTS: Some flea powders can be sprinkled into your carpets or pet bedding. Powders help fight the development of pupae into adults, thus rendering an end to the life cycle of flea. Follow package directions carefully. Ask your local pet store what brands they recommend.
Read package labels under "active ingredients". Look for a pyrethroid. This is an insecticide that improves on the biological activity of natural pyrethrins. Pyrethrins are extracts of a species of Chrysanathemun, which acts on the insects central nervous system. They are regarded as relatively safe. This is a specific chemical used to kill the adult biting flea. Also look for permethrin. Another ingredient that is very effective is called an IGR (insect growth regulator). This chemical disrupts the normal developmental cycle of the flea rather than poisoning it. It is a very effective weapon in eliminating your pest population by stopping the reproduction cycle. They will be listed as methoprene or pyriproxyfen. These are also available through your vets office and pest control companies. Please keep in mind your pets AGE and SIZE. Do not use treatment for dogs on a cat.
One of your best allies in this battle will be your vacuum. After applying these preparations to your home SWEEP, SWEEP, SWEEP! This will start the removal of fleas. REMEMBER TO REMOVE AND BURN YOUR SWEEPER BAG OR PUT YOUR SWEEPER BAG IN A PLASTIC BAG AFTER EACH SWEEPING! This will keep them from returning to a cozy spot to reproduce. Vacuum thoroughly the areas where you pet sleeps or frequents. Pay particular attention to areas under furniture, along wallboards, close to pet bedding and area or throw rugs and cracks in the floors. You may not "see" that you are sweeping up fleas or eggs but its very likely you are removing feces and eggs/pupae. Remember that fleas are stimulated by vibrations. Your sweeper will stimulate the pupae to emerge, making it vulnerable to insecticides. Run the sweeper over your furniture and wash your bedding. Fleas are not picky about who they bite. If they find a warm host you too could be their next dinner.
Written by Piper Cratty