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Hamoth · 09-15-2005, 11:38 AM

<< LOL Message so long I have to post it in two parts. >>
PART I

There's a wealth of info online regarding dogs and dominance. Dominance issues seem to be one of the most common sources of behavioral problems and stress between dogs and their owners. I will caution that I have also read that dominance issues are a little over diagnosed, but from what I've read that it sounds like a few folks in here could benefit from reducing their pup's status quickly. Note that if you have ANY signs of dominant aggression, you might consider the help of a trained Canine Behaviorist. In fact, a behaviorist visit is a good step for any modifications in your dog's social life if you are the slightest bit unsure. I intend to do this for Chewy before I go to far with my dominance training just to make sure I'm reading the situation right. Your Vet will be able to recommend a good one to visit. Make sure before doing the following that your dog isn't acting out due to "Fear aggression" or any condition that shows a fundamental lack of self confidence. If your dog NEEDS more confidence, then these will be the exact wrong things to do. Not sure? Read this:
http://www.canismajor.com/dog/aggres1.html#Types

Bear in mind that "aggression" comes in degrees. Hopefully we are dealing with levels of dominance that are pre-aggression. However the section on dominant aggression sounds a lot like my Chewey (last week). Though social and happy-go-lucky, I never would have known he was a ticking time bomb. Once he started growling at me every time I to the bathroom, I knew that something was amiss. It turns out that this is a weird symptom of dominance aggression. (I'm clearly marking HIS territory)

I'll first recap what I did, and then provide some excellent links for further reading. I'll caution you all to remember that this advice is only that. It's not set in stone, and ultimately you know your dog better than anyone. I've departed in some respects greatly from the advice I have read only knowing that "Chewey will flip out if I do that...". I have made concessions and allowances for my dog's character, and my own!

Have you been to scool?
I'll insert here that you should take any dog who hasn't been through basic obedience to classes immediately. I can not express that value of this for all things relating to controling your dog. Old dogs EASILY learn new tricks, especially in such a bright and friendly breed as ours. Sign up for a class where you AND your little Yorkshire Terror can work together to learn how to obey and be obeyed. It also helps your dog learn how to learn. Chewey went from total ignorance of the following commands: "Speak", "Front", and "Heal", to having them all down pat in 48 hours. I could not have accomplished that if daily training were not being applied on the foundation we learned in obediance classes together.

That said, here's some of what I did for dominance training:

Step 1. Test my dog's intelligence.

I had a feeling that Chewey might be dominating me because I wasn't challenging him enough and he was simply bored out of his skull. I wanted also to know how much I could expect from him in the lessons to follow. Was he needing me to repeat commands six or seven times because he was just feather-brained? Or was he ignoring me in order to show that he would dictate the terms of his obediance? In cruder terms: I needed to know if I was dealing with a smart-ass or a dumb-ass (

).

Here's a few articles on Canine Intelligence and how to understand it...
http://petcaretips.net/how-smart-is-your-dog.html
http://www.buzzle.com/editorials/5-2-2005-69414.asp

This is a link to what I felt was the most fun (and informative) of the many tests out there:
http://www.superdogs.com/documents/S...0IQ%20Test.pdf

In my case, I found that I was dealing with a very intelligent dog. That let know that it was perfectly o.k. to proceed to the next steps and to expect rapid results because he was smart enough to know what I was doing.

Step 2: No more repeating myself.
Now when I talk about dominance, I don't mean "meanness" or anything like that. Throughout this process I was calm, playfull, and in control. When my little guy didn't wanna do something, that was fine, he just doesn't get a treat or attention.

I spent all day asking my dog to do things for treats in the following format "Chewey Sit." Said in an even tone. If he did it upon my first asking he got the treat. If he didn't immediately respond, I looked around (not at him) as if bored untill he either complied, or went about his business. Either was fine for me. This will make your Yorkie a little agitated. Chewey, upon not getting the treat, might whine, bark, go flip a toy around mid-air, stare at me and growl, or any number of things. Just be a rock, unmovable. Eventually he learned (within a day) that he has to do things the first time I say or it doesn't count.

I find that even three days into the dominance training, he has a hard time remembering to do things the first time IF I fail to say his name first. When your dog doesn't obey a single command, evaluate yourself and make sure that you were clear. Did you utter the command without the dog's name? Did you mumble? Did you have the dog's attention? Does the dog know you have a treat? All of these can affect a single command, so evaluate that you are being fair.

Sometimes I give poopers the benefit of the doubt and give him a second chance. *SOMETIMES*. Don't let your manipulative Yorkie push that to being the new standard.

Some words are optional and he can get out of doing the trick by ignoring me (fine, no treat then). Some words are NEVER optional.

"NO"
"Come"

These are the two most important words in my dog's vocabulary and I've spent probably 50 hours reinforcing "come" in increasingly frenetic situations. Try calling your pup when he/she is engaged in frantic play with another dog. Chewey is FINALLY starting to respond to that and is being rewarded with SOME off leash time in the back yard (no fence you see, so "come" is really important).

"Come" has saved his life a few times. Like the time I found that our front door hadn't shut completely and my dog had run far away. One shouting of "Chewey, Come!" and I could hear his tags from a few BLOCKS away. Within 30 seconds he was in my arms being gently praised for coming to me and then being given a whole plate of rewards.

3. I Define when we play.

Chewey is a manipulator. I couldn't work for a half hour before he was in my lap trying to get in front of the screen, dragging a toy with him and pushing it into my lap, or simply staring at me and making play-paws growling, false-alarm barking, and summoning me to the door to take him out, whereupon he would simply stand at his leash's length and stare into space. False alarm bathroom breaks were common place.

The pup had learned that he could get me to do things. This isn't cute, it's not polite asking, it's an order. When your pup tries to initiate playtime and you follow him into it, you have given up status and he has given you an order. Don't be affronted by this, or offended that your pup may dare to try to push you around. Ignore the call-to-play untill it is convenient for you. Or try setting up atandard play-times and refuse to deviate from your play schedule.

Don't be surprised if your dog barks and growls at you when you refuse to be lured into their game of choice. You might see pretty quick how that seeming "nice asking" was in fact a veiled order from your dog. Ignore the tantrums and outbursts. If the pup is really spazzing out, wait for a calm moment and then initiate some training drills. That converts a moment of insubordination to one of submission.

You will find your life suddenly more productive and therefore with more free time to play with your pup. This makes you both happier. Be amazed that your dog in a matter of weeks will routinely sleep patiently at your feet, find constructive ways to amuse himself, and await playtime at your pleasure with happiness and serenety. (as I type, my holy terror sleeps peacefully in his basket at my feet).

Caution: Yokies are communicative dogs. Here I deviate from some of the things said in other articles. Sometimes what seems an invitation to go play, is instead a valid communication (my bowl is empty! I feel bad! I need to go pee!) You know your dog. Don't IGNORE your pup, only ignore his / her orders.

4. Know the "Status Places" in your home and restrict access.

How far you take this depends on your relationship with the dog, your ways of spending time with them, and how dominant / agressive your dog has grown.

Here are "status places".
a. The couch. (never while I'm eating, thereafter, never unless I invite him) I thought this was going to be a real struggle. In a day he learned to sit at my feet patiently as I eat and ask my attention to be invited up. Nobody was more surprised at how fast he learned this than I was.
b. The bed. (I have yet to win this one) Yorkies get cold, they like to snuggle, they don't take up too much room, and most of the time they smell neat. But letting your dog sleep in your bed communicated status to them. All the experts advise that a dominant dog should NEVER be allowed in bed. I'm waiting for the delivery of a bedroom crate, and a heating pad before I make this move. Sadly, it must eventually take place.
c. The table. (never on any food bearing surfaces, nor beneath the table while the family is eating).

09-15-2005, 11:38 AM	#20
Hamoth YT Addict Join Date: Apr 2005 Posts: 358	<< LOL Message so long I have to post it in two parts. >> PART I There's a wealth of info online regarding dogs and dominance. Dominance issues seem to be one of the most common sources of behavioral problems and stress between dogs and their owners. I will caution that I have also read that dominance issues are a little over diagnosed, but from what I've read that it sounds like a few folks in here could benefit from reducing their pup's status quickly. Note that if you have ANY signs of dominant aggression, you might consider the help of a trained Canine Behaviorist. In fact, a behaviorist visit is a good step for any modifications in your dog's social life if you are the slightest bit unsure. I intend to do this for Chewy before I go to far with my dominance training just to make sure I'm reading the situation right. Your Vet will be able to recommend a good one to visit. Make sure before doing the following that your dog isn't acting out due to "Fear aggression" or any condition that shows a fundamental lack of self confidence. If your dog NEEDS more confidence, then these will be the exact wrong things to do. Not sure? Read this: http://www.canismajor.com/dog/aggres1.html#Types Bear in mind that "aggression" comes in degrees. Hopefully we are dealing with levels of dominance that are pre-aggression. However the section on dominant aggression sounds a lot like my Chewey (last week). Though social and happy-go-lucky, I never would have known he was a ticking time bomb. Once he started growling at me every time I to the bathroom, I knew that something was amiss. It turns out that this is a weird symptom of dominance aggression. (I'm clearly marking HIS territory) I'll first recap what I did, and then provide some excellent links for further reading. I'll caution you all to remember that this advice is only that. It's not set in stone, and ultimately you know your dog better than anyone. I've departed in some respects greatly from the advice I have read only knowing that "Chewey will flip out if I do that...". I have made concessions and allowances for my dog's character, and my own! Have you been to scool? I'll insert here that you should take any dog who hasn't been through basic obedience to classes immediately. I can not express that value of this for all things relating to controling your dog. Old dogs EASILY learn new tricks, especially in such a bright and friendly breed as ours. Sign up for a class where you AND your little Yorkshire Terror can work together to learn how to obey and be obeyed. It also helps your dog learn how to learn. Chewey went from total ignorance of the following commands: "Speak", "Front", and "Heal", to having them all down pat in 48 hours. I could not have accomplished that if daily training were not being applied on the foundation we learned in obediance classes together. That said, here's some of what I did for dominance training: Step 1. Test my dog's intelligence. I had a feeling that Chewey might be dominating me because I wasn't challenging him enough and he was simply bored out of his skull. I wanted also to know how much I could expect from him in the lessons to follow. Was he needing me to repeat commands six or seven times because he was just feather-brained? Or was he ignoring me in order to show that he would dictate the terms of his obediance? In cruder terms: I needed to know if I was dealing with a smart-ass or a dumb-ass ( ). Here's a few articles on Canine Intelligence and how to understand it... http://petcaretips.net/how-smart-is-your-dog.html http://www.buzzle.com/editorials/5-2-2005-69414.asp This is a link to what I felt was the most fun (and informative) of the many tests out there: http://www.superdogs.com/documents/S...0IQ%20Test.pdf In my case, I found that I was dealing with a very intelligent dog. That let know that it was perfectly o.k. to proceed to the next steps and to expect rapid results because he was smart enough to know what I was doing. Step 2: No more repeating myself. Now when I talk about dominance, I don't mean "meanness" or anything like that. Throughout this process I was calm, playfull, and in control. When my little guy didn't wanna do something, that was fine, he just doesn't get a treat or attention. I spent all day asking my dog to do things for treats in the following format "Chewey Sit." Said in an even tone. If he did it upon my first asking he got the treat. If he didn't immediately respond, I looked around (not at him) as if bored untill he either complied, or went about his business. Either was fine for me. This will make your Yorkie a little agitated. Chewey, upon not getting the treat, might whine, bark, go flip a toy around mid-air, stare at me and growl, or any number of things. Just be a rock, unmovable. Eventually he learned (within a day) that he has to do things the first time I say or it doesn't count. I find that even three days into the dominance training, he has a hard time remembering to do things the first time IF I fail to say his name first. When your dog doesn't obey a single command, evaluate yourself and make sure that you were clear. Did you utter the command without the dog's name? Did you mumble? Did you have the dog's attention? Does the dog know you have a treat? All of these can affect a single command, so evaluate that you are being fair. Sometimes I give poopers the benefit of the doubt and give him a second chance. SOMETIMES. Don't let your manipulative Yorkie push that to being the new standard. Some words are optional and he can get out of doing the trick by ignoring me (fine, no treat then). Some words are NEVER optional. "NO" "Come" These are the two most important words in my dog's vocabulary and I've spent probably 50 hours reinforcing "come" in increasingly frenetic situations. Try calling your pup when he/she is engaged in frantic play with another dog. Chewey is FINALLY starting to respond to that and is being rewarded with SOME off leash time in the back yard (no fence you see, so "come" is really important). "Come" has saved his life a few times. Like the time I found that our front door hadn't shut completely and my dog had run far away. One shouting of "Chewey, Come!" and I could hear his tags from a few BLOCKS away. Within 30 seconds he was in my arms being gently praised for coming to me and then being given a whole plate of rewards. 3. I Define when we play. Chewey is a manipulator. I couldn't work for a half hour before he was in my lap trying to get in front of the screen, dragging a toy with him and pushing it into my lap, or simply staring at me and making play-paws growling, false-alarm barking, and summoning me to the door to take him out, whereupon he would simply stand at his leash's length and stare into space. False alarm bathroom breaks were common place. The pup had learned that he could get me to do things. This isn't cute, it's not polite asking, it's an order. When your pup tries to initiate playtime and you follow him into it, you have given up status and he has given you an order. Don't be affronted by this, or offended that your pup may dare to try to push you around. Ignore the call-to-play untill it is convenient for you. Or try setting up atandard play-times and refuse to deviate from your play schedule. Don't be surprised if your dog barks and growls at you when you refuse to be lured into their game of choice. You might see pretty quick how that seeming "nice asking" was in fact a veiled order from your dog. Ignore the tantrums and outbursts. If the pup is really spazzing out, wait for a calm moment and then initiate some training drills. That converts a moment of insubordination to one of submission. You will find your life suddenly more productive and therefore with more free time to play with your pup. This makes you both happier. Be amazed that your dog in a matter of weeks will routinely sleep patiently at your feet, find constructive ways to amuse himself, and await playtime at your pleasure with happiness and serenety. (as I type, my holy terror sleeps peacefully in his basket at my feet). Caution: Yokies are communicative dogs. Here I deviate from some of the things said in other articles. Sometimes what seems an invitation to go play, is instead a valid communication (my bowl is empty! I feel bad! I need to go pee!) You know your dog. Don't IGNORE your pup, only ignore his / her orders. 4. Know the "Status Places" in your home and restrict access. How far you take this depends on your relationship with the dog, your ways of spending time with them, and how dominant / agressive your dog has grown. Here are "status places". a. The couch. (never while I'm eating, thereafter, never unless I invite him) I thought this was going to be a real struggle. In a day he learned to sit at my feet patiently as I eat and ask my attention to be invited up. Nobody was more surprised at how fast he learned this than I was. b. The bed. (I have yet to win this one) Yorkies get cold, they like to snuggle, they don't take up too much room, and most of the time they smell neat. But letting your dog sleep in your bed communicated status to them. All the experts advise that a dominant dog should NEVER be allowed in bed. I'm waiting for the delivery of a bedroom crate, and a heating pad before I make this move. Sadly, it must eventually take place. c. The table. (never on any food bearing surfaces, nor beneath the table while the family is eating).